Refilling AIO

[Lochekey]

I found this http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-xt-1-nuke-coolant-concentrate-1l.html#Specifications and this http://www.performance-pcs.com/mayhems-silver-coil-99-999-pure-fine-silver.html I figured that would cover all the bases. I hate automotive glycol. It's a pain to clean off and I'd have to get it off the hoses and radiator. And my hands, and my sink. LOL

If you are willing to invest the money into the fluid it is probably a lot easier. As for the silver coil, the fluid already contains a biocide and the coil should not be necessary and could possibly cause problems in the system. You could also consider the EK fluid like this one http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-cryofuel-clear-premix-900-ml.html but that mayhems should be fine as well as long as you are sticking with the clear fluids.

 

[Alaric]

I'm fine with spending less. I like the one you found better. I didn't see a mention specifically of biocide in the Mayhem's, so thought I needed additional protection.

 

[Lochekey]

Mayhems XT1 Nuke is a new formulation of Non Toxic Ethylene Glycol that can be used in pressurised environments up to 390°C and down to –50 °C / -58 °F. The formulation will last over twice as long as our existing XT1 and has much more resilient biocides and inhibitors. This makes it more suitable to small form factor PC’s, all in one cooling solutions and high heat load systems utilising multiple graphic card array setups.

 

[Alaric]

Well, in all fairness, I said I didn't see it. Not that it wasn't there. LOL I had just skimmed over it before I posted as the 5 minute search on the website took enough time. Sometimes I get bored easi-SQUIRREL!

 

[Dr. McCoy]

Given their low cost it's probably money ahead to just get a new unit.
But don't toss out a old AIO completely. Even if its beyond repair you should scrap the block and rad.
Infact with some work one could reuse the rad.

I also am interested in seeing what you come up with.

I'd think as long as the pump/block is still working you could add a rad to the system along with a small transparent res if you want.
You'd need the fill port you install to be at the very top of the entire loop if possible, this way air can and will escape as coolant is added. Run it for a few minutes, shut it down and doublecheck the fluid level to see if any more air has worked it way to the port. Refill again and repeat until you can't add anymore coolant to the system (Stays "Full" - No airpocket).

Personally I don't use AIO's, in fact I've had one before that I won as a prize and sold it unused to a friend at work.
As for my custom setups I could go into detail on how I set those up but that would be a very long post to explain how and why I do them as I do and that is to an extent off topic..... Related but not exactly on point so I won't - Unless of course you ask me to.

 

[MaddMutt]

I'm fine with spending less. I like the one you found better. I didn't see a mention specifically of biocide in the Mayhem's, so thought I needed additional protection.

Depends on how cheap you want to go :
I used a Glad Container for my Res = $5.00 https://www.glad.com/food-storage/containers/soup-and-salad/
I purchased 2 x 1/2" (screw) to 1/4" (barb) connector = $2.00 https://webbsonline.com/media/ecom/prodlg/05112.jpg
I purchased 10ft of 1/4-ID tubing = $4.99 (shorter length = lower price)
One tube of super glue = $1.00
One bundle of 100 Zip Ties = 1.00
The total is less than $15.00 and you can refill/flush it at any time

^ The above was done on my H50 conversion and it still works

Drill 2 holes into the contain. "Screw" the reducer into the container, then seal it with super glue. This makes it water proof
The original H50 Tubing was 1/4", so the connectors on the Pump and Rad where for a 1/4" hose. You must determine the size of the stock tubing. Then purchase the appropriate container connector and tubing.
Install the tubing to the container, to the Pump, and Res with zip ties so there is no leakage.
Power on the Pump to verify no leaks and then remount it

 

[Alaric]

Depends on how cheap you want to go :
I used a Glad Container for my Res = $5.00 https://www.glad.com/food-storage/containers/soup-and-salad/
I purchased 2 x 1/2" (screw) to 1/4" (barb) connector = $2.00 https://webbsonline.com/media/ecom/prodlg/05112.jpg
I purchased 10ft of 1/4-ID tubing = $4.99 (shorter length = lower price)
One tube of super glue = $1.00
One bundle of 100 Zip Ties = 1.00
The total is less than $15.00 and you can refill/flush it at any time

^ The above was done on my H50 conversion and it still works

Drill 2 holes into the contain. "Screw" the reducer into the container, then seal it with super glue. This makes it water proof
The original H50 Tubing was 1/4", so the connectors on the Pump and Rad where for a 1/4" hose. You must determine the size of the stock tubing. Then purchase the appropriate container connector and tubing.
Install the tubing to the container, to the Pump, and Res with zip ties so there is no leakage.
Power on the Pump to verify no leaks and then remount it

Hell, I can mix water and ammonia 80/20 and be done with it if needed. Throw in a dash of bleach and we're good. Or Windex. Or isopropyl alcohol. Water is the absolute king at heat dissipation, but there's something to be said for ease of use and convenience.

 

[mackerel]

I broke it. Finally curiosity got the better of me. I tried pulling on the hose by the rad, and after some effort it came off. There was a metal barb on the rad. The tubing has really thick walls. With this success, I thought, why not disconnect it at the block/pump end too? Snap! That didn't feel good... looked at the two parts, it was a plastic barb. Not going to work so well now.

Also drained the liquid. Didn't bother to collect it. It really stank, reminds me kinda like ammonia smell. Couldn't wait to rinse that away. I've lost motivation for now. If I get some more later, I'll take apart the block and see if it is easily possible to refit another barb or something there to enable its use again. I think this might work ok for a test setup with a res for easy filling (even of chilled water...)

 

[Nebulous]

I broke it. Finally curiosity got the better of me. I tried pulling on the hose by the rad, and after some effort it came off. There was a metal barb on the rad. The tubing has really thick walls. With this success, I thought, why not disconnect it at the block/pump end too? Snap! That didn't feel good... looked at the two parts, it was a plastic barb. Not going to work so well now.

Also drained the liquid. Didn't bother to collect it. It really stank, reminds me kinda like ammonia smell. Couldn't wait to rinse that away. I've lost motivation for now. If I get some more later, I'll take apart the block and see if it is easily possible to refit another barb or something there to enable its use again. I think this might work ok for a test setup with a res for easy filling (even of chilled water...)

JB Weld to the rescue. Also refilling the AIO use a mix of Antifreeze/distilled water. A mix of 10/90 should do it

 

[mackerel]

If I ever get around to fixing it, I want to try near zero cooling, likely requiring that antifreze. I've started filling up spare plastic bottles with water and leaving it in the freezer...

 

[Alaric]

Alcohol based car windshield washer fluid works, too. My only reason to look for anti freeze alternatives is that stuff is a yucky mess to clean.