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Refilling an AIO

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Dave65

Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2001
Hey all, I searched for the answer but could not find it. I have an Enermax LIQMAX 360, ran great for over two years but wanted to try something different so I went to air.
I decided to drain the AIO to see if it had any crap built up inside like the older ones did, it was bone clean, nothing at all except the liquid was a bit cloudy. Now Id like to refill. Question is, is there a ready made solution that I don't have to add water to?
Something I can just fill it and put back together to use again..

Thanks so much!
 
There's a whole bunch of pre-mix fluids;


It's pricey to refill just an AIO. I would use a little anti-freeze and distilled water. Like a 10/90 mix will do.
 
I'm guessing most of the off the shelf coolants would have issues unless they were specifically made for mixed metals. I have no idea if 10% antifreeze enough to stave off galvanic corrosion, but I believe the cause of a lot of the early failures was related to the coolant and galvanic corrosion.
 
I'm guessing most of the off the shelf coolants would have issues unless they were specifically made for mixed metals. I have no idea if 10% antifreeze enough to stave off galvanic corrosion, but I believe the cause of a lot of the early failures was related to the coolant and galvanic corrosion.

actually you'd be surprised.

I know GM dexcool (orange), Mercedes/BMW (blue) and Ford (gold) are for mixed metal engines.

the orange dexcool is probably the easier to get ahold of, blue isnt too bad but costs a little more. also dexcool had an issue with gumming up but the formula has changed since that happened in the 90's so dont use old dexcool coolant aka dexkill.

most of the cars these OEMs make have mostly aluminum engines but some have steel sleeves pressed into the block and others are cast iron blocks with aluminum heads. alot of them have copper in the cooling system it self plus different metals that make up the water pump impeller and other miscellaneous parts the coolant might touch

i narrowly avoided the dexkill threat in my truck, when the rad cracked i found some of the gunk, its kinda like the older enermax gunk that GN hacked a bunch of AIOs for. can kill engines but i caught it soon enough and replaced it with something a little heavier duty.
 
Indeed, however my concern is more about the concentration required for effective corrosion inhibition, of which I have no idea. Cars use 50/50 or 60/40 up North for freeze protection, obviously (usually) not a concern in the PC, but what concentration is required to inhibit galvanic corrosion?
 
75/25 water to coolant is good enough to kill organics. For metal protection, it looks like 70/30 will do.

 
if you do 50/50 you could probably go sub freezing if you wanted to use your system outside
 
i actually think that the water wetter linked in that thread might have been a different formula.
It used to be a bright yellow, almost like highlighter yellow but not quite green like the regular antifreeze.
some racers will use this alone with water with out issue but i dont know about long term since most of the ones i knew would tear down their engine every winter if not more.

i would say it'd probably be ok to run it and water, or maybe just it
 
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