Setup/Optimization of Corsair H60 w/ Crossblade Ranger Mobo and A10-7850k

[GamerGuy83]

So I've recently begun the process of upgrading/improving my PC's build to improve my gaming performance. To start I have bought and installed a Corsair H60 on to my mobo and it seems to be running alright. I'm already noticing some improved temperatures over the stock fan and heatsink that came with my CPU. However, I'm wanting to make sure I have things running good with it before I begin making the other changes to my PC (such as new RAM, Video Card, etc).

To start I know the pump in the H60 needs a full 12v consistent in power to run effectively. My board only has 5 spots that are 3 to 4 pin connectors I could use to plug it into (CPU out, CPU Fan, and Chasis Fan 1 to). I currently have it plugged into the Chasis Fan 1 spot, while the Radiator's Fan is plugged into the CPU Fan spot. I'm wondering if there is a way to tell using HWinfo, speedfan, or the like exactly how much voltage is getting to the pump and if need be a way to adjust it to ensure a full 12v?

This is what I'm currently seeing in Speedfan in terms of voltage.


Secondly I'm hoping I have the whole rig for the H60 setup up decently and wanted an opinion from folks here? Though I'm not sure if I will keep the fan setup on the radiator as a intake, and I certainly want to eventually use a push/pull arrangement for it.

 

[Johan45]

A couple things here, you should use AMD OD to monitor your temp delta. AFIK it's the only one that's accurate with the APUs. How about those wires? Is it possible to run them behind the mobo? Do you have the H60 blowing in or out of the case? this can affect your airflow quite a bit.

 

[GamerGuy83]

Yes I'm well aware of AMD Overdrive and use it for that purpose, but that software doesn't tell me anything about voltages which is one of my questions. Hence the use of a different program to look at the voltages I'm after. Also I already specified how the fan for the H60 is set up in my OP (an intake aka blowing into the case through the radiator), and as for the wires... No I can't as there isn't any room or way to run the cords and wires through the back of the case.

 

[Johan45]

OK I missed that between the two pics. As for voltage to the pump reading. I'm not sure there is any software that reads out the fam header voltages. Typically only display RPM. Do you or does Corsair link work on Win10. It should tellu you if your pump is running at full speed and the only way I know to guarantee a full 12v is a fan to molex adapter and connect it straight to the PSU. This wouldn't allow it to adjust it's speed though if it has that capability. When it comes to intake or exhaust, well I know they will quite often recommend setting the cooler as intake. The problem here is case air flow and the hot air that's being dumped into the case by the rad. If you have good airflow and something to pull the heat out it should be OK but I always prefer exhaust. One other thing I would turn the CPU mount 180°, that should take some of the twist out of the hoses and give you room for another fan if you need it.
Can you specify your case and fan set up

 

[GamerGuy83]

OK I missed that between the two pics. As for voltage to the pump reading. I'm not sure there is any software that reads out the fam header voltages. Typically only display RPM. Do you or does Corsair link work on Win10. It should tellu you if your pump is running at full speed and the only way I know to guarantee a full 12v is a fan to molex adapter and connect it straight to the PSU. This wouldn't allow it to adjust it's speed though if it has that capability. When it comes to intake or exhaust, well I know they will quite often recommend setting the cooler as intake. The problem here is case air flow and the hot air that's being dumped into the case by the rad. If you have good airflow and something to pull the heat out it should be OK but I always prefer exhaust. One other thing I would turn the CPU mount 180°, that should take some of the twist out of the hoses and give you room for another fan if you need it.
Can you specify your case and fan set up

I'm not sure what you mean by corsair link on Windows 10, but nothing I currently have tells me anything beyond the rpm for the pump.

The CPU mount can't be turned in a way that will get rid of any twist in the tubes like that, I tried. The way the mounting brackets work for the AMD socket leaves little room in the methods for mounting it, especially if I have the radiator set the way they recommend (which I do).

 

[Johan45]

You can give overclocking a try and see how the temps go. My concern is proper airflow over the board with the rad as intake. The only exhaustt is through the 200mm at the top and typically they don't move a lot of air.

 

[GamerGuy83]

You can give overclocking a try and see how the temps go. My concern is proper airflow over the board with the rad as intake. The only exhaustt is through the 200mm at the top and typically they don't move a lot of air.

If you look up the case (detailed in my sig) you'll see it has plenty of airflow, the stock set up of the case has 2 exhaust ( rear and ceiling/top of case) and 1 intake (bottom front). Then has the ability to add still 2 more fans (a 2nd bottom-front and a side case fan) which I did even before changing the rear exhaust into an intake. So I have 3 intakes right now with one of them being the Radiator's fan, but then I still have the ceiling (top) exhaust fan, which is one of those really big fans, to pull everything out the top of the case.

 

[tachi1247]

Not so sure I would have turned that rear exhaust around. Natural airflow would have the two front fans blowing in cool air at the bottom and the hot air blowing out the rear and top. By adding another intake at the top you might be working against the other intake fans and creating spots of dead air in the case. Plus as previously mentioned, giant fans like you have usually don't move a lot of air because they spin relatively slowly.

If you want the radiator as an intake then put it at the front, otherwise use it as an exhaust on the back.

What exactly are you trying to achieve anyway? Unless you are going to OC that chip, adding a cooler isn't going to affect performance any. For the most part, neither will changing the RAM. Biggest factors that will change your gaming performance will be gpu, then cpu, then ssd.

 

[Johan45]

I did look up your case and already gave you my opinion on the big fan at the top. I understood your set-up. I'm not trying to knit-pick, no need to be defensive. That one fan as exhaust isn't enough at full speed it can move about 120CFM those three fans at moderate speed should move 150+. I ust feel you're going to end up with stagnant air somewhere. The 7850k will heat that board up so you may end up with a hot socket. Like I said the only way to tell is to start overclocking and see how things go. I have that exact board and CPU so I know what you're dealing with. The stock VID is already high so any overclocking is going to work the VRM etc, etc,,

 

[GamerGuy83]

So I went ahead and flipped the radiator's fan around so that is now an exhaust fan that is pulling the air through the radiator and out of the case. We'll see how much of an impact that has on my temps for the CPU which is one of my main concerns (and why I went with what was suggested for it by corsair). Though with all the fans pulling air in to the case there might be enough cool air pulling through the radiator that it will be okay.

Though my motherboard and other sensors for the inside of my case all showed before this that my temps where good. Motherboard never got higher than 36 degrees Celsius, and the idle temps for the motherboard were 25 degrees Celsius. Which far as I'm aware for the board those are perfectly fine for it (unless someone else knows different).

 

[Johan45]

It's not the board temp that is the concern. It's the socket and VRM. Which is hard to measure on that board with a lack of compatible software. The results will be in the OC.

 

[chrisjames61]

I would strongly consider some better cable management if your case has that capability as Johan45 said and some cleaning up of the dust coating the components especially any fan blades. That cooler is not much better than the stock AMD cooler. Add to the fact that there now no residual air blowing down on the board itself. I would highly recommend a quality after market tower cooler or downdraft cooler. The H60 is a toy.

 

[GamerGuy83]

I would strongly consider some better cable management if your case has that capability as Johan45 said and some cleaning up of the dust coating the components especially any fan blades. That cooler is not much better than the stock AMD cooler. Add to the fact that there now no residual air blowing down on the board itself. I would highly recommend a quality after market tower cooler or downdraft cooler. The H60 is a toy.

If you noted in what I posted, there is a side fan installed which blows directly on to the board. I would like to be able to move or get rid of some cables to get a little better air flow from the front fans, but that isn't really a option. Though I might change over to one of the modular PSU's Corsair makes if I have the money, as that would help.

The H60 actually is giving me better temps than the stock fan/heatsink ever did so I wouldn't scoff at it. Also for someone that is on a budget the H60 is the most affordable liquid cooler I can buy. I can't even afford the Geforce 950 or 960 I want to upgrade to with out saving 2 months worth of checks.