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should i buy a complete kit or build one up?

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killercanadian said:
lead, £200 will buy a heck of allot of water cooling.


ThermoChill PA120.3 120mm Triple Radiator £48.50 ex VAT
Danger Den DDC 12 Volt Rev2 Pump £47.49 ex VAT
Swiftech MCRES Micro Reservoir £9.99 ex VAT
Swiftech Apogee GT Extreme Performance CPU Water Block £31.95 ex VAT
Tygon R3603 Tubing 1/2" ID 3/4" OD (Per Foot) £1.79 ex VAT
Zalman ZM-F3 120mm Silent Case Fan £5.49 ex VAT x3

the parts i listed are some of the best available, and its still under £200

its not terribly difficult to build a damn good w/c system for that kind of money.

*edit* could not find Swiftech Rad box on Thecoolingshop.com so you will still need one of those depending on your case.

KC

thanks for your time. Isnt the 'rad box' just a stand off for the radiator from the back of the case, i could probably make one if so
 
WonderingSoul said:
It makes me sad how inexpensive Thermochill rads are in the UK :(
Me 2 I payed ~100 for my BIXIII

Gonan be building a bong in a month or so and I have a fealing it is going to cool WAY better than my Rad (for 1/3 the price )
 
yea, the radbox is just a standoff, most people use it so they dont have to cut their case, but I dont know what case you have which is why I added it.

KC
 
killercanadian said:
yea, the radbox is just a standoff, most people use it so they dont have to cut their case, but I dont know what case you have which is why I added it.

KC


so the radiator will have mounting holes that i can use to attach it to the back of my case, i might just make one up, then i can determine how far it sits from the back of my case

PS

the radiator you specified is out of stock, will this fit as a replacement, does it use the same pipe standard?

Black ICE GT Stealth 360mm Triple Radiator ?

http://www.thecoolingshop.com/product_info.php/cPath/33_55/products_id/2409
 
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The stealth is for low-speed fans? How does that work? It's got a very high FPI count last I recall. The Thermochill has very low fin count, allowing low flow fans to work well.

From what I've read, the Swiftech MCR series is the second best rad, though I don't keep up with watercooling parts. Take it FWIW.
 
to be honest, you really dont need the PA120.3 unless your running a quad, and a pair of 88s. The only reason I mentioned it was because it was the most overkill rad you could get for your budget.

Im fairly sure your opty and GPU could be put on a PA120.2, which TheCoolingShop.com does have in stock.

oh and If you think the price of the Thermochill rads are a bit much, the next best thing, is the MCR rads by Swiftech.
 
Do i not need anything else alongside the list you described. How do the pipes clip onto the water cooling components? Is all this stuff compliant to the same pipe standard, 1/2 3/8 ? ? ? ? ? help :S (isnt the tygon tubing 1/2 or 3/8, id prefer the latter)
 
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I think you need to research water cooling a bit more before you embark upon this endeavor, try starting with the stickies.

but none the less, here is what I would buy in your situation
if you've got any questions as to why I chose what I did, ask, I can give reasons why.






KC
 
LeAd_Poisoning said:
Do i not need anything else alongside the list you described. How do the pipes clip onto the water cooling components? Is all this stuff compliant to the same pipe standard, 1/2 3/8 ? ? ? ? ? help :S (isnt the tygon tubing 1/2 or 3/8, id prefer the latter)
The tubing fits over barbed fittings on the blocks and radiator, and you use stainless steel worm drive clamps keep the tubing in place and prevent leaks. These days most WC components have female threads so you can use either 1/2" or 3/8" barbs. Consider 1/2" barbs with 7/16"ID, 5/8"OD tubing. It's a little bit of work to get the tubing over the barbs, but it's almost as easy to route as 3/8" and no more restrictive than 1/2".
 
SolidxSnake said:
The stealth is for low-speed fans? How does that work? It's got a very high FPI count last I recall. The Thermochill has very low fin count, allowing low flow fans to work well.
It works because the fins are extremely thin.

My question about these radiators is how big a PITA is it to maintain them? I can see those tightly spaced fins clogging up with dust pretty quickly. HW Labs claims they've found a way to keep that from happening, but they don't say what it is.
 
(All swiftech gear)
- APOGEE waterblock - the GT one
- MCR220 Radiator (dual radiator) - i heard this was the second best radiator around
- MCRES-Micro reservoir - listed in a previous post
- MCB120 Radbox radiator mounting adapter
- 7/16" ID Tubing
- MCP655 12V DC Pump:

Nominal voltage
12 V DC

Operating voltage range 6 to 14 VDC
Nominal power (@ 12 V)
24 W

Nominal current (@ 12 V) 2 amps
Motor type Brushless, microprocessor controlled
Maximum head
10 ft (3.1 m)

Maximum discharge
~ 317 GPH (1200 LPH)

Connection size
½" barbs

Maximum pressure 50 PSI (3.5 BAR)
Temperature range 32 °F to 140°F (0 °C to 60 °C)
Electrical connector
Molex 4 pin

Weight
1.4 LB (650 gr.)

Based on this specification, is this a good pump performance wise, you guys would know?

total £160 with shipping
 
QuietIce said:
The MCP655 will easily run all that. It has a speed adjustment on the back (P1-P5) and I suspect you can get by using the P3 setting with that loop ...

whichever is fastest :S, im assuming that offers better cooling, could that set up handle the highest setting?

ps, how big is 7/16" tubing? is that 1/2" tubing aka 12mm(10mm interior diameter) If so, is 10mm tubing fine for permanent use, as a cooling means to survive upgrades or is larger tubing fundamentally better
 
LeAd_Poisoning said:
whichever is fastest :S, im assuming that offers better cooling,
For your purposes, yes. The the higher settings do dump more heat into the loop, though, hence with a small rad, quiet fan, and light load, you might get slightly better cooling from one of the middle settings.

could that set up handle the highest setting?
Yes. You'd need a ridiculously powerful pump to generate enough pressure to burst your rad.

ps, how big is 7/16" tubing? is that 1/2" tubing aka 12mm(10mm interior diameter)
When we say 1/2" tubing around here, we usually mean 1/2"ID, 7/8"OD. 7/16" is about 11mm. I'm not sure what the nominal size would be in Europe.

If so, is 10mm tubing fine for permanent use, as a cooling means to survive upgrades or is larger tubing fundamentally better
It depends on your goals. If you want maximum performance, 10mm tubing is a little small. If you want decent cooling in a nice, tight system that doesn't look like one of those crazy American monstrosities, it will work just fine. :)
 
Hey LeAd_Poisoning, quick question. That cost seems a bit high. $316 USD. This Petra Kit This kits only 114 GBP (before shipping), has the same MCP655, a DD CPU & GPU block, a similar RAD, the DD fill port. Plus it comes with all the tubing, coolant, fans.

I know everyone seems to bash the kits, but both Swiftech and DD make the kits in the exact configurations that many piece together themselves, ulitimately paying more for them. Can anyone comment?
 
dbthump said:
Can anyone comment?
Nothing wrong with buying a kit if it saves you money and you'd buy those components anyway. The problem with buying kits without selecting individual components first is you can wind up with a system that's not really suited to your goals. And of course if you buy from a vendor like Thermaltake, you can wind up with a WC system that doesn't work any better than the heatsink that came with the CPU.

The MCR220 is superior to the double BIP, and slightly more expensive. The TDX and RBX are jet impingement blocks, whereas the Apogees are pin-fin -- two good but very different ways of getting the job done.
 
what performance difference is there between 1/2 or 7/16 and 3/8 piping? is it in the order of a few % or a more significant amount. i know you have to factor in other stuff - but if i got a high quality radiator, pump and block would that still give me really good performance for a water cooling system
 
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