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video card volt mods

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f00t

Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2002
ATI

Radeon 8500le / 8500 --> here

Radeon 9000 / 9000pro --> here

Radeon 9100 -->

Radeon 9200se -->

Radeon 9200 --> here

Radeon 9600 np --> here

Radeon 9600pro / 9600xt --> here

Radeon 9500pro --> here

Radeon 9550 --> here

Radeon 9500np 256bit / 9700np / 9700pro --> here

Radeon 9800se 128bit --> here

Radeon 9800se 256bit / 9800se aiw --> here

Radeon 9800np / 9800pro --> here

Radeon 9800xt --> here

Radeon x700pro --> here

Radeon x800pro / x800xt --> here

Radeon x800 / x800xl / x850 --> here


NVIDIA

Geforce 2 mx200/mx400 --> here

Geforce2 gts --> here

Geforce2 ti -->

Geforce2 pro -->

Geforce2 ultra -->

Geforce3 --> here

Geforce3 ti200/ Geforce3 ti500 --> here

Geforce4 mx420 -->

Geforce4 mx440 -->

Geforce mx460 --> here

Geforce4 ti4200 --> here

Geforce4 ti4400 / Geforce4 ti4800 / Geforce4 ti4600 --> here

Geforce 5200 -->

Geforce 5200ultra -->

Geforce 5600ultra --> here

Geforce 5700 -->

Geforce 5700ultra --> here

Geforce fx 5800 / Geforce fx5800ultra --> here

Geforce fx 5900le / Geforce fx 5900se / Geforce fx 5900xt --> here

Geforce fx 5900nu / Geforce fx 5900ultra / Geforce fx 5950 --> here

Geforce 6200 pcie --> here

Geforce 6200 agp --> here

Geforce 6600 (non-gt) --> here

Geforce 6600gt agp --> here

Geforce 6800gs --> here

Geforce 6800ultra / Geforce 6800gt -->here

Geforce 6800ultra 512mb pcie --> here

Geforce 7800gt --> here

Geforce 7800gtx --> here


Various Other VIdeo Cards

Xabre 200 --> here



If anyone has any other vid card volt mods that aren't on the list, please feel free to post them.
 
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thanks for the heads up on the 7800gtx crimedog, he must have just put it up
 
leeashton said:
how do you pencil shade?

pencil shading is pretty simple. you simple draw a line between the specified resistors using a normal hb2 pencil. the more lead you put down, the higher the voltage will rise. just be careful to not draw over the area too many times, i killed a 8500le like that
 
Here's a question regarding voltmods...... when consulting various voltmod guides, max core volts are usually assigned according to cooling ie: 1.45v good air, 1.65v water, 1.70+ phase/dry ice. My question is are these numbers derived based on core temps or some other factors? If it's a temperature issue what temps are acceptable for a given cooling method? I'm just trying to understand the logic.

Example: My X800GTO2 is about to get voltmodded. With the stock cooling my card may get as high as 70° loaded. Can I therefore assume it would be ok to voltmod my card to the point that it goes no higher than 70° loaded with better cooling? Help me understand this..... Thanks

The RaT
 
Personally I do not put any stock in these prescribed "overvoltage limits" that many guides give to us. Sticking to prescribed overvoltages such as these is usually a hindrance to our overclocking... you would be surprised how often a piece of hardware will continue to see stable gains past a seemingly unreasonable overvoltage.

felinusz, http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=384756

"1.8V is the maximum safe 24/7 overvolt for your processor."

I see this, or comments like it, quite a lot. It is a common misconception that each specific type of hardware has a set-in-stone overvolt that one cannot safely exceed. This is very much untrue. No two processors are alike. Just as two ‘sibling’ processors coded one digit apart in their batch will overclock to different levels, those two ‘sibling’ processors will react differently to overvoltage.

Our hardware is unique, and needs to be treated uniquely, on a case-by-case basis.
felinusz, http://www.ocforums.com/showpost.php?p=3666526&postcount=4

The following technique is independant of temperature and cooling – temperature is a variable which directly leads to both Diminishing returns and Instability, and as such it is taken into account, although indirectly. I am in no position to tell anyone specifically what is a "safe" temperature to run their hardware at. However, thorough use of the following guidelines will invariably leave you at a "safe" temperature by default.


First off, lets see how high we can overclock our piece of hardware, with some degree of overclock stability, using stock voltage – no overvolts just yet. Thorough stability testing is not really necessary at this point, as we are only doing some preliminary probing into our hardware’s capabilities. A quarter hour run of Prime95 or a similar stress testing program for a processor, a quarter hour run of 3DMark for a GPU/GDDR, or a quarter hour run of memtest86 test #5 for memory, is sufficient at this stage.

~ Scale your clock frequency higher in small steps. For modern processors, ~100 MHz steps are appropriate. For modern RAM, ~10 MHz steps are appropriate. For modern GPUs/GDDR, ~15 MHz steps are appropriate. The step size is not particularly important.
~ After each speed ‘step’, run a quick stability test to make sure that your overclock has some integrity.
~ When you get to the point where stability is compromised, begin to ‘fine-tune’ the overclock. Drop your speed step size, and find a rough stable overclock limit.
~ Write down the ‘final’ overclock, and the stock voltage used.

Now that we’ve done some initial probing, we can heat things up a little bit, and add some voltage. Overvolt the hardware in question by the minimum voltage increment available in the BIOS, likely 0.025V for processors, and 0.025V-0.1V for memory. If you are overvolting through use of a physical voltage modification, keep to tiny 0.025V overvolt steps. The smaller the voltage step, the more accurate our findings will be, the more time consuming the process.

~ Starting from the clockspeed we left off at after testing at stock voltages, ‘fine tune’ the frequency upwards in small steps, as before.
~ After each step, run a quick stability test to check for overclock integrity.
~ Continue untill you lose stability.
~ Once stability has been compromised, fine-tune the overclock to the absolute limit point where it can run with stability for 15 minutes.
~ Write down this rough ‘final’ overclock, and the voltage used.

We now continue with the above steps, incrementally increasing our overvoltage, and charting out the clockspeed gains which we see at each overvoltage step – go until you have completed four steps, including stock voltage. This will take some time, but it’s worth it.

After four voltage and clockspeed steps, it is time to start a graph. A piece of graph paper and a pencil, or graphing software, are all you need to do this. A chart with "VOLTAGE" for the horizontal X axis, and "CLOCKSPEED" for the vertical Y axis is appropriate. Use stock voltage as the voltage starting point, and the maximum rough stable overclock at stock voltage as your clockspeed starting point.

Chart out your results thus far. Can you see a curve yet? After four small incremental voltage and clockspeed ‘steps’, we start to get an idea of how our hardware is reacting to overvolts. Some hardware will already start to peak after four steps. Other hardware is just getting started, hungry for more. Every piece of hardware is different, which is why this graph is so important – on a piece of paper your hardware’s unique reactions to overvoltage are fully outlined.

Right now is where we need to start paying attention to our gains, looking for diminishing returns. This isn’t too difficult with a graph right in front of us! When your curve begins to taper off, and flatten out, diminishing stable MHz returns per mV overvolt have kicked in. This is a good point to stop overvolting, when looking for a "safe" 24/7 overvolt and overclock.

Keeping an eye on your graph as you go, continue upwards in small overvoltage and clockspeed steps, until such a plateau becomes apparent on your graph. At this point of diminishing return, we can 'fine tune' our overclock for stability, for 24/7 use. Below, I have attached a sample graph, outlining this peak with a fictional (and conveniently clear) example.

Going slightly past the point of diminishing returns is certainly not "wrong", although the risks of both long term and short term hardware damage increase significantly when once does so. For hardcore benchmarking, suicide screenshots, and crazy fun, the graph is somewhat irrelevant. The graph guideline is an excellent tool for finding a "safe" 24/7 overclock/overvolt for your unique hardware, it is not so useful for the benchmarker or record breaker.

If your hardware sees stable MHz gains from seemingly large overvolts without peaking, do not be afraid to continue. Your hardware will tell you when it has hit its limits – it will peak or become unstable. High temperatures will directly cause both of these situations.


Specific to your situation though, as you increase your overvolt your "safe" load temperature goes down. Theoretically, your safe temperature at 1.6V should be much lower than your safe temperature at 1.4V.
 
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Thanks bro..... I saw this before but had no idea where to look for it again. I'll keep this in mind as I begin my journey. Congrats on the Blue stars also..... :beer:
 
Thanks!

I saw your GTO thread, and man those are some really mint cards for the pricetag, especially when you get a 16 pipe core on there... what on earth is ATi thinking? ;)
 
I'm inclined to think these are bottom of the barrel R480 cores and bottom of the barrel 1.6ns memory. Some work good and some don't. Nice little score for a gambling man...... :D
 
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