What are your opinions on the...

[Conumdrum]

Is that canadian $$? Reason I ask is the Canadian $ has really done well in the last 2 years, not as good as the Euro, but very well.

 

[Prisoner1138]

Yes Stratus, those prices are right. But you're forgetting the "small stuff". Fans, biocide, maybe some uv dye(couple bucks, not that feser or fluid xp crap), ddc pump with petras top costs more than the d5, the correct barbs if your components don't come with them. That does add up to a few bucks.

I'm also curious as to what that metal plate inside the EK supreme is made of. because it doesn't look like a piece of copper to me.

 

[Stratus_ss]

from the hardware wiki

EK-Supreme universal water block for all socket CPU's has been designed for the hardest enthusiast user. The base plate is made of electrolytic copper lapped and polished to +/- 0,0007 mm flatness. The top is made of quality POM Acetal.

why would you get a ddc when the D5 is cheaper? that doesnt make much sense

uv dye is a negative impact anyways from the sounds of it, aesthetics arent that important

it didnt sound like the OP wanted the best water money could buy, and besides a 120X3 isnt required and the Fusion and Supreme are on the top of the pack

 

[Conumdrum]

Nope, he has no idea what is top $$, yet hehe, he will in time with this addiction. A single 120.3 rad, FC GPU/CPU/NB blocks with the best hoses, clamps, res etc comes out to just over $600, I know personally. Don't tell me you could do it cheaper. I don't care. I make good coin and I can afford it.

EK is an okay block, and smart looking with the copper top. The FuZion with the washer is the best right now. But not by much.

 

[Stratus_ss]

yup absolutely the fusion is on top with its addon stuff but out of the box the supreme just edges it out

 

[ancalime]

ancalime, hate to burst your $200 bubble, here is a decent 120x3 kit with everything.
http://us-dc1-order.store.yahoo.net...re_id=yhst-65556269779593&sectionId=ysco.cart

It's $250 without shipping (add $11). Sure you can save a few bucks here n there by getting components from 3 diff places, and then the shipping goes up.

Um, ok first of all your link leads to an empty cart. Secondly, I just built a loop for a friend buying exclusively from jab-tech. Here are the parts:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-Apogee-GT-universal-water-block-pr-3639.html
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCP655-B-12-VDC-Pump-Without-speed-controller-pr-3803.html
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCR320-QP-K-Triple-120mm-Radiator-pr-3320.html
http://www.jab-tech.com/1-2T-Line-for-1-2-ID-Tubing-Clear-pr-3517.html
http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-120mm-Case-Fan-D12SL-12-pr-3009.html

It came out to about $190 shipped. All quality parts..Apogee GT, D5, MCR320, some yate loons. He dished out a grand total of $2 for all the distilled water and algaecide he needed and I had some 7/16'' Masterkleer for him. Even if he would of bought the Masterkleer, he would of remained under $200.

Don't give me that you have to spend $250++ for a good WC setup. For about $200 you can build a darn good setup and I just gave you the list to do it; no heater cores or used parts involved.

Peeps can argue all they want about used stuff is better, heater cores are cheaper. We are talking about the OP, new at this and doesn't even have access to the classified here until he hits 100 posts. So your solution isn't viable for a new WCer.

Are we talking about the same OP? He has 111 posts so yes he does have access to the classifies.

And for a first time WCer, there is nothing wrong with setting it up outside the case and testing. It's a great way to learn about bending hose, fitting clamps, learning how to fill/bleed a loop. For a first timer it's the SMART way.

what does bending hoses and fitting clamps have to do with leak testing? All of those things you describe are easy enough, even for a first timer, in a case with sufficient room. There is little point in leak testing outside the case if you are just going to leak test inside the case again.

EDIT: Wow I pressed reply and kept the page open for a while since I forgot to reply to it. I didn't realize Stratus already replied to it lol.

 

[Conumdrum]

Okay, you win. Just add hose, clamps, biocide, fans, fill port plug and we'll call it even. I tossed in a res tho, $20 and got 4 fans instead of just 3 because it's always nice to have an extra fan. Dunno why the link came up empty, here is the cut n paste.

Shopping Cart
Swiftech Apogee GT Universal Waterblock - 1/2"
[remove] $47.99 Yes $47.99
Swiftech MCR-320 "Quiet Power" Series Radiator - Black
[remove] Barb Type : Black Nylon
$54.99 Yes $54.99
Laing D5 Vario/D-Tek/Danger Den D5 Inline 12V DC Pump
[remove] $82.99 Yes $82.99
1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing
[remove] $0.75 Yes $7.50
Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp
[remove] $1.00 Yes $15.00
Petra'sTech "PT_Nuke" Concentrated Biocide (10mL)
[remove] $2.50 Yes $2.50
Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Hi-Flo Reservoir
[remove] Re-Tap Top Port in 1/4'' BSPP : No
Additional Barbs : None
$19.95 Yes $19.95
120mm Yate Loon D12SM-12 Case Fan - Black (70.5 CFM, 33 dBA)
[remove] Fan Screws : none
$4.99 Yes $19.96

Subtotal: $250.88
Shipping: $11.52*
Tax: $0.00
Total: $262.40

And being careful and methodical on a first time WC setup is really what matters I guess. I'd rather someone learn about undertightening a clamp outside the case off the mobo and not getting water all through their PCI slots. Dry mount it all to get hose lenght right, then take it all out, connect it all up and fill er up. And then take it all apart and slap it in after no leaks etc. Just my thoughts, you can do as you wish, as I can too.

 

[Stratus_ss]

just curious why do you guys pay like $20 premium on the D5

is that usual down there or is it that specific merchant?

 

[ancalime]

Okay, you win. Just add hose, clamps, biocide, fans, fill port plug and we'll call it even.

lol sorry didn't mean to get all heated up. For some reason "sorry to burst your $200 bubble" really fired me up though.
hose clamps...7/16'' ID tubing = no need for hose clamps
Algaecide = Biocide no?
fans..he got 3 yate loons
fill port plug...zip tying a wooden cork-like thing works as well

And being careful and methodical on a first time WC setup is really what matters I guess. I'd rather someone learn about undertightening a clamp outside the case off the mobo and not getting water all through their PCI slots. Dry mount it all to get hose lenght right, then take it all out, connect it all up and fill er up. And then take it all apart and slap it in after no leaks etc. Just my thoughts, you can do as you wish, as I can too.

I understand that, perhaps I just forgot how one feels when one first sets up water cooling. I just think having to leak test twice is a big waste of time but if one is worried enough and has enough time, by all means..

 

[Conumdrum]

Okay, no worries. My cost was figured on everything needed, no questions asked, a full setup...with clamps. Your just cutting a few corners with your experiance which isn't bad. And getting fired up is just fine, as long as you don't bite your tounge etc when you spaz on the floor, it doesn't bother me, and like haha I never get fired up.

 

[beancooker]

Well, I didn't mean to start a war...

I went the easy route. I picked up the Thermalright Ultra 120 extreme. My idle temps were 32º-33ºC with the Thermaltake V1 in the Raidmax Smilodon case. Now I'm sitting at a cool 21º-22ºC in the Antec 900 case with the Thermalright Ultra 120 extreme. Ambient temp is 20ºC.

Not as snazzy as water, but not bad either.

 

[beancooker]

Just ran Prime for a couple of minutes. I had been sitting at 69º-70ºC under full load, now, the highest i saw was 47ºC.

 

[Conumdrum]

No worries, not a war, just two guys with the same vision, just differnt ways to accomplish it. Thats great temps you got, now you can OC some more if the board will do it. As long as your happy we are too.

 

[beancooker]

Thanks. I'm brimming with happiness at this point. Yes the board will go higher... I want 3.6 stable...