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Which audio card is better?

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A Little late to this discussion, but I have a Creative Sound BlasterX AE-5 and love it. The sound quality is superb.

Also, don't forget, that it comes with a pretty RGB LED strip...and everything is better with LEDs!
 
S/PDIF only supports multiple channels through AC3 or DTS sources and requires the appropriate # of speakers. Otherwise it's all stereo. Card must have Dolby Digital Live or DTS Connect. Otherwise you need an actual stereo system that supports multi channel to output correctly to the speakers . My onboard Realtek which I plug directly to my D1 Dac uses spdif as well as a usb2 connection from pc with the default being 'direct sound digital out'. HDMI natively supports multi channel as well.
I only bought the dac because I wanted a headphone port on my desktop and didn't want to worry about where the pc resided. Plus it's just cool. If I were to buy another I'd definitely get a Schitts and some Anthony Gallo speakers at that. I still want to buy a pi killer with enclosure and have a dedicated stereo system/media player. That way I don't have to turn the pc on as it were. I want a dedicated setup to my tv and keep the desktop to actual pc monitors only.
 
A Little late to this discussion, but I have a Creative Sound BlasterX AE-5 and love it. The sound quality is superb.

Also, don't forget, that it comes with a pretty RGB LED strip...and everything is better with LEDs!

Your motherboard has a better sound card than my motherboard...
What speakers do you use?
and have do a comparison internal analog vs internal digital vs Sound BlasterX AE-5 analog and vs Sound BlasterX AE-5 digital?

I'm very curius
 
I use an old 5.1 surround sound system purchased around the year 2000. It has S/PDIF and direct analog connections.

The digital S/PDIF of the audio on my motherboard do not produce surround sound in games...only when playing back a movie. (The motherboard manufacturer didn't license the technology).

Making pure analog connections, the Sound BlasterX AE-5 is "richer and deeper" compared to the analog connections from my motherboard. I can definitely tell the difference. So much so, that I'm glad I bought the sound card and won't bother with motherboard audio ever again.
 
Making pure analog connections, the Sound BlasterX AE-5 is "richer and deeper" compared to the analog connections from my motherboard. I can definitely tell the difference. So much so, that I'm glad I bought the sound card and won't bother with motherboard audio ever again.

This. The better DAC and op amp will do that for you.
 
I use an old 5.1 surround sound system purchased around the year 2000. It has S/PDIF and direct analog connections.

The digital S/PDIF of the audio on my motherboard do not produce surround sound in games...only when playing back a movie. (The motherboard manufacturer didn't license the technology).

Making pure analog connections, the Sound BlasterX AE-5 is "richer and deeper" compared to the analog connections from my motherboard. I can definitely tell the difference. So much so, that I'm glad I bought the sound card and won't bother with motherboard audio ever again.
The year 2000 was around the time when surround amplifiers went from "old analog designs with digital bolted on" to actual digital amplifiers. Those are the few "digital" amplifiers where it can make sense to use the analog inputs.
 
There are chips that accept digital input and give out PWM signals that only need to be level shifted to drive the power electronics. Here's one from TI, the biggest manufacturer of those chips:
http://www.ti.com/product/tas5558
You'll note that in quantity, they're only about $3 each. That's how cheap audio DSPs have become.
 
Yes - the newer amplifiers use a switching Class D type amplifiers (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Class-D_amplifier).

You can tell if an audio amplifier uses this technology as it will be "smaller" for a high output power value, and typically will have higher THD compared to a straight analog amp.

My circa 2000 Pioneer surround sound system uses straight analog amplifiers. The sound from this system is still fabulous...and the lifetime has exceeded what I ever expected.

When I purchase my audio equipment, I go for the best THD for the output power I am looking for. The output power depends on the room you want to place the audio system in (more power isn't necessarily better). When looking at audio amplifier specs, you have to sometimes dig through the "marketing goop" to get to a true audio spec. For instance:

- At what power level is the THD measured?
--- If it's at 50W for a 200W channel, then the amp is crap.

- What is the RMS power (i.e. steady state) the amp can do per channel?
--- A lot of specs will give you "peak" power level.
--- For example, a 200 W peak power level with a 75 W RMS power level will mean that the "short bursts" of audio in movies will be OK, but you can't crank music up real loud.

- What is the total power output of the amp?
--- Sometimes you will see a 5.1 amplifier that has marketing goop of 100 W per channel...so you assume 500 W of audio power, plus another 100 W from the subwoofer.
--- You have to dig deep to see if the amplifier can actually SUPPLY 500 W + subwoofer at the same time...does it have a beefy enough power supply and proper heat sinking?

- Subwoofer crossover frequency
--- Is this adjustable, or is it fixed at specific frequencies?
--- This is a big one as you need to ensure that when you go from low bass to low treble, you don't loose volume.
--- A good subwoofer will have a frequency range that slightly overlaps with your main speakers. Then, you can adjust the subwoofer crossover frequency to allow for a solid "blending" as the sound frequency moves from the subwoofer to your main speakers.
--- If the amp does this correctly, you can have a "bookshelf + subwoofer" speaker setup sound as good (or better) than the large speakers without a subwoofer.

There are more, but these are the "big ones" I look for.
 
There are lots of variables. Can it "double down" out put from 8 to 4 ohms? If so, it has enough power available from the transformer to handle transients, etc.. And where the distortion is can be a big factor.

This
THD at 8 ohms RMS rated output ................................................................................................ 0.03%
Looks better than this
THD
0.3%(1W/1kHz;5% Under Rated Power)
on paper, but my Marantz PM 7200 @95 wpc [25 wpc Class A] (first one) is in no way shape or form equal in sound quality to the Cayin M-845D @60 wpc [second one]. And neither accomplishes doubling power output when halving resistance.

One of the most "musical" amplifiers ever made, the legendary McIntosh MC75, doesn't look great on paper, but it is truly an audio masterpiece.
Power Output per Channel
75W @ 2, 4 or 8 Ohms
Number of Channels
1
Total Harmonic Distortion
0.5%
S/N below rated output
110dB
Dynamic Headroom
1.5dB
Damping Factor
>18 Wideband
Rated Power Band
20Hz to 20kHz
Frequency Response
+0, -0.5dB from 20Hz to 20,000Hz
+0, -3.0dB from 10Hz to 100,000Hz
 
High current MOSFETs are surprisingly cheap nowadays. What manufacturers tend to skimp on are the output filter parts, the capacitors, and the PSU. I would really like to see easy to assemble DIY kits for digital amplifiers. There are lots of pretty good analog input amplifier modules available for fairly cheap, but no cheap digital input amplifier modules.
 
Ok so yesterday i got the creative AE-5.

The sound is lot better now using analog connection
Today i'm testing the optical... until now i can seem to find how to calibrate the speakers... and i'm not sure if all speakers play at 100%, the rear speakers dont sound a lot
 
If it's set up to play real surround the rear speakers don't do a lot. If you can set it to play stereo through all speakers the rears will have the same signal as the fronts.
 
yea like you said me, little tweak and they work very nice at optical too.

I'm thinking in leaving at the analog connection to be able to instant tweak the sound etc... also i think analog is better
 
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