DeViL_909 said:
What do you mean by the paper shims? Are you talking about using carbord to adjust the depth.
Exactly. The accessory does have some rude marks for 1/4", 1/2" depths, but you need far less than that and repeatable too so you can go back after readjusting to a given depth (line weight).
I also suggested "paving" the work with something (also consistent thickness) so the router base doesn't scratch the acrylic... paper?
DeViL_909 said:
I am going to Homedepot today and I am still debating on how to handle this. Will cutting it with the carbide bit give it a frosted/etched look? OH and what was the price difference for the mutil purpose and tile cutter?
The kits should cost the same, as they feature the same base, while the carbide "tile" bit likely costs as much as three "multipurpose" (HSS spiral) bits. The carbide will not be so sharp initially as the steel bits, but will keep its edge longer. Since you're only using the tip (1mm? <1mm?), I suggest you inspect and choose whatever bit included or on the rack has the point you want, barring anything abrasive (diamond, grinding bits) which can clog.
Having large consistently frosty areas, you're really pushing it. The roughness in these areas has to be uniform. Back in the early days of printing, we got around that by filling areas with fine parallel lines. Even today we print translucent areas with fields of dots, to ensure uniformity. Sandblasting of course makes a uniform field of dots. With a Dremel you'll have to make the scratches uniform.
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My experience here is in engraving wood and metal (and offset printing) not etching acrylic. My Dremel router base accessory was shop-made after store hours. The tools and methods overlap, but better trust advice from those who have actually done case windows.
. In person you can see the inperfections in the frost spray due to cold. Etching produces a simular effect though.
