Looking to get my feet wet and dunno where to start...

specs first then what I have then what I would like to do.

Comp parts:
EVGA 780i with a q6600
Video card (9800gtx+ but may go to a 260?)
Stacker TC-101

Pump: Mag 5 (I have multiple aquariums, I bought this for whatever reason and have never used it)

Beyond that I have no blocks, tubing, or rad. Fans will be 120 x38s either delta or Scythe.

I know that the Mag 5 is probably a bit overkill but its free and sitting on my balcony right now.

Intentions: WC the CPU, GPU, and the chipset on the 780i (it runs too hot for my tastes)

Now the questions start.
What is the benefit of Delrin tops over Acetyl?

I am looking at making this as close to a sealed system as possible. (I have 2 cats who like investigating everything)

I plan on putting the rad in the front of the stacker as there is plenty of room there for it, any issues to this?

Suggestions on WB, GPU, chipset and res?

Thanks in advance for any info you can give. Back to reading and trying to get an idea of what I am getting myself into.

Short on time for a reply, this should give you plenty to read for a week.
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CPU HS $65
GPU HS and air HS for vram and mosfets $95, full cover block, $100-$200
Radiator $60 min, up to $130
Pump $50 +
Resiviour $25
Hose, some barbs and clamps etc (min $25, more like $35)
Fans $15-30

I went top notch and spent close to $600 to cool my CPU and GPU.
First you gotta learn about WC. It's not like walking into Best Buy.
Spend a while (weeks is best for your sanity) at these links.
Look at the hundreds of loops close to your case and components in the stickies, read a couple 50 or so threads over the next week or so, you'll be on the ball to make the right choices and by then know how to put it together.
Not 'Roket Sience', but basic knowledge is required.
And you should spend a few hours on the listed sites reading threads. It's how we learn. Once the goodies show up on your doorstep your on your own.
For your benefit please spend a few days reading a LOT. At the busiest places for WC masters. Guys who have done it for YEARS at OC Forums and xtreme forums. It took me a while (I was OCing on air, aftermarket stuff, bios settings, best chipsets etc etc) to learn the language and the tricks to a easy install.

Don't expect miracles or SUPER DOOPER over clocks. What you will get is a quiet system that can handle OC to the max of your hardware IF you buy quality and buy smart. And minor maintenance too, a bonus for the water cooler.

Also while there please read on case mods etc. The radiators are not for small cases, pumps and hose routing, wire management and other things are important. Google your planned case and the word water-cooled in one line. You might get lucky. Look here too…. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=223835
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Edit: The next paragraph was from 2008. With the advent of the HOT i7 and bigger GPU's, it has changed. A 220 size MIN rad for an i7, you want big overclocks, better go 320 sized rad.
................................

IF you just cool your CPU and your NB if you want, you can get by with a 120.2 sized radiator (RAD). And MAYBE fit in inside depending on your mod skillz. You want to cool your GPU too, you'll need a 120.3 sized rad, and it probably won't fit inside. The rear external rad really works great. No matter what your adding 10lbs to your PC.

Once you got an idea of what is good/bad then start getting your system for WC put together and we'll be glad to help.
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Cleaning a loop, not a new loop: I do this once a year, I drain and refill at 6 months, the next time I do this……
Wash hands very well, getting rid of hand oils.
For pumps and blocks, fittings, clamps, acrylic res/block parts.... not hose, tear it to smallest pieces, put in a bowl, heat water up not to boiling add 10% vinegar, when hot, pour over parts. Rinse in 10 min or so. Put aside.
The bocks will probably have some black oxidation. Take the copper parts out of the pile of parts you took out of the water. Dry well and pour ketchup on them, and set aside. Only the copper parts need this.
Rad cleaning: fill with very almost boiling hot water. Let sit 10 minutes, drain half out and shake for 5 min. Repeat till liquid is clean.
All the pump, block, fittings, and clamps, inspect, get in the tiniest corners with a tooth brush. Kind of meditative, time consuming, you learn a lot about o-ring size, how it all feels. Run a rag using a coat hanger and dish soap through the tubing, rinse well.
Rinse all the parts and hose with distilled, dry then really dry with an air compressor (nice extra step to get rid of water spots). Don’t need to dry the inside of the hose.
Now on to the copper parts, they should have been soaking an hour or two. A toothbrush and ketchup should clean much of the oxidation. It probably won’t be like new, but pretty darn good. Rinse, dry, and blow the parts.
That’s it.
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Benching software and such is very varied. I use these for each purpose:
These are pretty standard and used by many.
Monitoring the PC temps overall: HWmonitor aka hardware monitor
CPUZ for CPU info
GPUZ for GPU info
CPU only: RealTemp
GPU only: ATI Tool, I have a Nivida GTX280, so it works on Nvidia

Loading/benching tools:
CPU loaders: Prime95 and OCCT
GPU Loaders: ATI Tool and the best one is Furmark, nothing pushes the GPU harder right now.
Benching for overall graphics/gaming performance is 3DMark06
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Guides
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=282232 Pretty up to date info and buying guide
http://gilgameshreviews.com/index.p...s&catid=40:overclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=86 Another good guide
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=312743 What to do once all the stuff is in the door
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=223835 Many build logs on MANY cases, great learning tool.

My latest rig:
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=604016

Forums
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/index.php? Not a noob site, but great stickies
http://www.ocforums.com/ My fav, good peeps, know their stuff, less hardcore
http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/inde [...] opic=20277 A GREAT Europe site
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/ Decent site

Tests on equipment, not reviews, truly scientific tests
http://translate.google.com/transl [...] n&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=220593 More rad testing
http://skinneelabs.com/ Host for Martins lab and some newer tests
http://www.skinneelabs.com/MartinsLiquidLab/ Test results, very technical


Stores
http://www.dangerden.com
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
http://www.jab-tech.com/
http://www.performance-pcs.com
http://www.frozencpu.com/
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Adragontattoo said:

I know that the Mag 5 is probably a bit overkill but its free and sitting on my balcony right now.

Click to expand...

actually it isnt .
its about 21 liters a minute at 5 feet of head

humn rest of my post got cut off..
anyways that pump is one we used back in the day but its ac and uses about 50watts so there is heat transfer there.
as for delrin , its wonderful stuff that does not crack as easy as other stuff and it machines well.
the stacker is a great case and you shouldnt have any problems.

you can pretty much put a rad anywhere .

Delrin is nice to machine, speaking from experience here.

Great to see someone else getting into WC...and attempting to come at it from a position of knowledge from the start. Kudos for your approach sir! Read all of the links in Conumdrum's post (especially the second guide linked ). You'll be busy, but end up better for it.

Now, suggestions you asked for. CPU... If you've got the budget, I'd go for the HK 3.0 Copper. Don't forget the backplate. If you're not looking to spend that much, the HK 3.0 LT is a good block as well (use the same backplate); as is the Apogee GTZ.

GPU... If you go with the 260, I'd get an MCW-60 for it, plus either separate sinks for the vRAM, vVRMs & vChipset or one of the blocks built for the 260 to go with the MCW-60.

Chipset... Measure the spacing between the mounting holes. More than likely any old universal block will work. I have the predecessor of this Danger den block and it works just fine.

Res... Swiftech's Micro Res 2 is the old faithful of reservoirs. It's versatile, cheap and does its job well. These EK cylindrical reservoirs are popular and look very nice. There are several sizes available, so pick the one you'd prefer; I just linked to one of the middle sizes. Don't forget the anti-cyclone insert if you go with that option. You could even be ridiculous and go with this giant, expensive chunk of copper. There are lots of ways to go. To see a rather exhaustive list, check out the selection at Performance PCs.

...aaaaand, that meets my linking quota for the day; I'm done.

I have an idea that I am trying to flesh out but I dont want to reveal too much early on.

I like the aquatube and am seriously considering that.

sweet there are some good links

look like teh OP and I will be back next week after we have read everything

right now im looking for a CPU block for my intel 6600 2.4 and GPU full coverage block for the 275

Well thank you for no job and a blackberry.

Couple of questions now.

First off. Running the system to get out the initial gunk.

I have a python I use to fill my aquariums 1/2ID 5/8OD. any reason I couldnt use it to push through the water needed to clean out the rad etc?

I know that will introduce tap water which will eventually cause issues with algae/gunk, but a kill coil is already planned and a flushing with RODI is also planned.

Realize that I am going at this with a well versed plumbing knowledge due to my having owned/managed/worked with aquariums for most of my life(currently have 4 different tanks setup in my condo).

I use tap water to clean the crap out of my parts and haven't ever had an issue. You could push water through, but it would be overkill. As Conumdrum says, do the rad dance. Just fill it with tap water, cover the holes with your thumbs and shake the crap out of it. Rinse & repeat a few times. Dump it in a white bowl to make sure nothing is in there. When done, do the rad dance with distilled. Anything that's left will be minimal and if there is anything living left, your kill coil and/or PT Nuke will take care of it.

Any order suggested over any other in Wcing?

Look at google searches as well as searches here has yielded contradicting info that states minmizing bends is the most important.

Looking at WCing the 780i still and assuming I get the single block for the 780i board as well as CPU and GPU, I was going to go Res>Pump>CPU>Board>GPU>Rad then back to the Res.

Casewise this will be in the original stacker with the Rad undecided but I will be going for total internal if possible.

Fanwise, Ill be using 120x38mm 3k rpm Scythes (part number can be pulled if needed) on a 120 x3 Rad.

Looking for a bit of info on which companies to avoid (non kits) or be wary of i.e. Tt cooling products or Apevia PSUs etc..

AC pump is planned as I dont mind an extra plug and I have an add-on card that works as a relay to turn the pump on and off (from the classies).

The mag 5 I thought I had was actually only a mag 2 so it is useless.

If you have to get another pump why not go for an mcp350 or mcp355 and add this restop for it http://www.petrastechshop.com/xsretopforla.html and kill two birds in one shot
I have the mcp355 pump myselve and loves it ( it's resting a.t.m waiting for a rad for the gpuloop )
The restop i linked to i haven't tried myselve but i do hear very good words about it

Yeah, Delrin's great stuff, just sticking in my two cents.

We use it almost exclusively in the Model/Tool Shop I work in for machined plastic applications unless it's something special requires Plexiglass, etc.

Adragontattoo said:

Pump: Mag 5 (I have multiple aquariums, I bought this for whatever reason and have never used it)

Click to expand...

I hear the MAG 5 is a good pump if you're doing evaporative (bong) cooling.

I've ordered the parts to build my own bong and the MAG 5 is what I've ordered for my pump. I hope I've made a good decision.

Order really doesn't matter in the long run. Under load, all components in the loop will end up within a few degrees C of each other (for better or worse) once the water temp normalizes.

If you're buying a pump, a big +1 to jr1's suggestion. I use the combo as well and it's a winner. Doesn't get much easier than having the res built in to the pump!

Unless you've already got the fans, I'll throw my $.02 against those Ultra Kaze's you're thinking about. Spend $5 more per fan and get yourself some Ultra High Speed Panaflos. They'll out-perform the Scythe's and last a LOT longer. Had two of those Kaze's croak on me in less than a month only running ~75% capacity. One of the three UHS Panaflos on my rad has been running that speed for almost two years now and it's still going strong. So, put that on your list of things to avoid, at least IMHO. Could have been a bad production run, and everybody has them; but I'll never buy another Scythe fan.

As far as brands, are you asking for blocks, rads, what specifically?

blocks, rads, res' yes.

I have the Scythes running on multiple rigs currently with zero issuse

Ordered both of them at the same time, so it was probably a bad batch. It was more of an experiment with cheaper fans close to the UHS Panaflo fan that I had. Learned my lesson well.

Anyway, let's see. Blocks - For your CPU, the Swiftech GTZ or HK 3.0 (LT or Copper, not the LC) are the two I'd look at (preference toward the latter...don't forget the back plate).

GPU - IMHO, you can't beat the Swiftech MCW-60 for its sheer adaptability on multiple cards. Almost guaranteed Swiftech will come out with an adapter for a new card whenever you want to replace yours. Don't forget RAM/MOSFET & chipset sinks to go with it. If you go with the 260, there is a one-piece swiftech sells to go around the block and look all prettified.

Res - As we mentioned before, if you're open to a 12v pump, the XSPC res top + MCP355 is a good combo. If you're really wanting to go the AC route, the Swiftech MCRES is a steadfast competitor. You could also go cylindrical if you please (you'll need an anti-cyclone insert also). There are many options and it really comes down to personal preference. If one strikes your fancy, post it here and see if anyone else has any experience with it.

Rad - Best bang for the buck: Swiftech MCR-320. Best of the best: Thermochill PA series, XSPC RX series, Black Ice SR1 series. Whether the gain you see between the MCR and the rest is worth the price difference really depends on how liberal your pocket book is feeling.

...and I'm all out of links for the evening. Feel free to ask any questions you may have!

Are there any companies that they have such potential but just cant get it right (i.e. Tt and their years of crap products).

I kind of figured that loop order mattered little vs better cooling and flow.

I would prefer a seperate res but it isnt a req.

I have an idea I am trying to flesh out for a design and the Cylindrical Res' suit it better but there is nothing much there yet and no parts have been chosen.

Sadly, I'm more able to quote you the good products than tell you which ones are bad, sorry about that.

no real biggie just mostly wondering.

Im not getting anything real soon regardless due ot getting laid off a few months back