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running Tualatin on CuMine MB w/o Powerleap
- Thread starter soil
- Start date
- Joined
- May 30, 2001
- Location
- My Habitat in Oklahoma
Neeki said:
Neeki - I don't think I've seen the ak4-an11, and g37-g35 connections before. Is this something new, and where did it come from?
One of the posts on your list shows this for a generic slotket. Is this true that these connections enable a generic slotket to work with Tually?
Ol'Man - have you tried this on a generic yet?
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2002
- Location
- vermont,new york,Quebec
I have a slocket III how do I know which version I have where do I check or look (now don't be mean).Thanks.
Slotket!!! version:
Take of the black (SECC2 type) casing.
It is held in place by 2 small pins in the lower left and right of the casing.
Then you can look at the back of the converter.
To the left at half hight there is the version #.
To the right there is a sticker with "FC370 Version#"
(For example on mine it sez to the left: v0.83
On the sticker: V1.1)
Take of the black (SECC2 type) casing.
It is held in place by 2 small pins in the lower left and right of the casing.
Then you can look at the back of the converter.
To the left at half hight there is the version #.
To the right there is a sticker with "FC370 Version#"
(For example on mine it sez to the left: v0.83
On the sticker: V1.1)
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2001
Hmm....
On a related note:
How exactly **ARE** you supposed to insulate the 3 pins if you decide to use nail polish? The space between the pins are VERY small... I can see myself getting polish on the wrong pins....
Also in case I do get polish on the wrong pin, how do I remove the nail polish with such a small area to work with ?
On a related note:
How exactly **ARE** you supposed to insulate the 3 pins if you decide to use nail polish? The space between the pins are VERY small... I can see myself getting polish on the wrong pins....
Also in case I do get polish on the wrong pin, how do I remove the nail polish with such a small area to work with ?
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2002
- Location
- vermont,new york,Quebec
Thank you very much.Chucked it like a clam yes it is a 1.1 Now to find a good celly.
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2002
- Location
- vermont,new york,Quebec
I was thinking about reviving my bx6r2 for the hell of it Yikes I almost crapped,I have a p4 bd7-raid(new bios) 256 kingmax 2700 and a cute 1.6a that will do 2.4 at stock v and cooling and it only cost me 133$(delivered newegg) Tryng to justify a tcelly.
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2002
- Location
- vermont,new york,Quebec
After checking prices I decided to buy a 1.0A I think it will go farther ferther whatever faster anyway I think.
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2001
Anyone going to help me out here?
my chip arrives today and I don't want to damage anything.
my chip arrives today and I don't want to damage anything.
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2002
- Location
- Portoroz, Slovenia
@ Falkentyne:
why don´t you DL & read the whole thread & make notes; I do like this in cases like this!
@ Dave001:
You can add mine MSI slotket: MS6905masterV2.0 /tvc16222 on board/ working perfectly!
why don´t you DL & read the whole thread & make notes; I do like this in cases like this!
@ Dave001:
You can add mine MSI slotket: MS6905masterV2.0 /tvc16222 on board/ working perfectly!
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2002
- Location
- Portoroz, Slovenia
After doing some enhancing to my machine 
, finally I am alive&back again!
@ joikd:
Do not worry; that slotket I found by yesterday experiments IMHO the Best !!!! (even if has no damn large chip on board)
Today I pushed my Tuallie on SuperSlotket3 ver.1.0-noname Taiwaneese made with no "big" chip on board-generic one /with a bit different mod-posted here by Sammy/ from 1.0A to 1,55G with PC100 Cas2 64Mb ram with 1,85 Vcore /shows 1,8/ on 235W !!! Enlight PSU. I made some benchmarks on 1,5G (still NO data corruption!): It really kicks *** to P4wiliamettes ! Would kick *** even more to new expecting Williamette core Celerons! It was a really cheap uppgrade to my machine to double performance @1,35GHz where I will keep it with 1,52Vcore not to bother spending twice such money & time additionally just to gain another 10-15% of performance buying a new PSU&ram & other stuff to make machine be LOUDER; now it is quite silent! When you pass 1G & 133fsb IMHO really doesn´t matter much except benchmarks or for special purposes; the real bottleneck is in fact HDisc access time, which slows the machine...
I also tested my setup @1,35 with a demo loop RallyMasters game with open case, but I forgot to put the fan on heatsink!!! After realised that (3 hours later!), the game was still running smoothly... LOL (yeah, the heatsink was hot!) ! If it would be AMD Duron would be dead instead & fire in the house..! It was a REAL Burnin-in.. ! I have a Philipphiness SL5VP, 1st week March OEM retail chip! ...
@ ALL: /Thanks to Sammy for info for that mod on SuperSlotket-III ver.1.0/
With my yesterdays experiments /damaged also plastic Slotket holders a bit!/ I found interesting facts that may stabilise your CPU @ higher frequencies: instead of ak4-ak26 bridge /w or no resistor/ I used instead direct hair thin wire bridge on s370 between isolated AK4 & non isolated AN11 (Vtt) pin !!! Advantages: the wire is shorter & bridge easyer to do & so recieving less RF noise to the CPU thus improving stability also because Vtt pin is RF decoupled to GND by capacitors, while ak26 has much higher impedance & not decoupled! So also VttPwrGd is now RF decoupled too & Cpu more stable !!! Also now is no need for safety serial resistor in bridge against higher voltage because on Vtt is fixed on 1,5V needed for VttPwrGd, whatever the Vcore is !! You should TRY this manipulation leaving the ak26 pin alone!
, finally I am alive&back again!@ joikd:
Do not worry; that slotket I found by yesterday experiments IMHO the Best !!!! (even if has no damn large chip on board)
Today I pushed my Tuallie on SuperSlotket3 ver.1.0-noname Taiwaneese made with no "big" chip on board-generic one /with a bit different mod-posted here by Sammy/ from 1.0A to 1,55G with PC100 Cas2 64Mb ram with 1,85 Vcore /shows 1,8/ on 235W !!! Enlight PSU. I made some benchmarks on 1,5G (still NO data corruption!): It really kicks *** to P4wiliamettes !
Would kick *** even more to new expecting Williamette core Celerons! It was a really cheap uppgrade to my machine to double performance @1,35GHz where I will keep it with 1,52Vcore not to bother spending twice such money & time additionally just to gain another 10-15% of performance buying a new PSU&ram & other stuff to make machine be LOUDER; now it is quite silent! When you pass 1G & 133fsb IMHO really doesn´t matter much except benchmarks or for special purposes; the real bottleneck is in fact HDisc access time, which slows the machine...I also tested my setup @1,35 with a demo loop RallyMasters game with open case, but I forgot to put the fan on heatsink!!! After realised that (3 hours later!), the game was still running smoothly... LOL (yeah, the heatsink was hot!) ! If it would be AMD Duron would be dead instead & fire in the house..! It was a REAL Burnin-in..
! I have a Philipphiness SL5VP, 1st week March OEM retail chip! ...@ ALL: /Thanks to Sammy for info for that mod on SuperSlotket-III ver.1.0/
With my yesterdays experiments /damaged also plastic Slotket holders a bit!/ I found interesting facts that may stabilise your CPU @ higher frequencies: instead of ak4-ak26 bridge /w or no resistor/ I used instead direct hair thin wire bridge on s370 between isolated AK4 & non isolated AN11 (Vtt) pin !!! Advantages: the wire is shorter & bridge easyer to do & so recieving less RF noise to the CPU thus improving stability also because Vtt pin is RF decoupled to GND by capacitors, while ak26 has much higher impedance & not decoupled! So also VttPwrGd is now RF decoupled too & Cpu more stable !!! Also now is no need for safety serial resistor in bridge against higher voltage because on Vtt is fixed on 1,5V needed for VttPwrGd, whatever the Vcore is !! You should TRY this manipulation leaving the ak26 pin alone!
Superslotket3.. is that the same as abit slotket!!! ?
What different mod by Sammy?
You mean the info from his question below?
>
Neeki - I don't think I've seen the ak4-an11, and g37-g35 connections before. Is this something new, and where did it come from?
>
Haven't seen this either..
So ak4-an11 is better. Great
But not always necessary (some setups didn't need ak4-ak26)..
How does g37-g35 help?
(1.55Ghz with pc100 LOL)
What different mod by Sammy?
You mean the info from his question below?
>
Neeki - I don't think I've seen the ak4-an11, and g37-g35 connections before. Is this something new, and where did it come from?
>
Haven't seen this either..
So ak4-an11 is better. Great
But not always necessary (some setups didn't need ak4-ak26)..
How does g37-g35 help?
(1.55Ghz with pc100 LOL)
Last edited:
i'm lost....what do all these letters and number combinations mean....are they pins or holes in the socket...and where do i find a map to tell where they are......all i want to do is run a tualatin in my abit slocket!!!...........please help....MAc
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2001
The pins are all labeled invidually. There are some links in the thread above that will direct you to the images that will tell you exactly what you need to know. It is bit hard to understand these pin codes without seeing the actual diagram of the pins.
The really hard thing to learn though, is what certain terms mean, such as "vss", "ground", vttgrd", and "so on, especially when you've never studied IC' or semconductors before. Even with people explaining, it's still not the most obvious thing to grasp.
When someone says they "connected AK4 to AK26", it means that they used a wire (insulated between the edges), or conductive paint (VERY hard to do) to connect the two pins together--pin AK4 to pin AK26. All the numbers you are seeing are the names of the pins. Bridging, wiring, connecting....all the same terms.
It really isn't THAT Hard to do if you have some wiring or electronics experience.....but the space between the pins are VERY small....so that might be an issue for those who are not that good at working on such small objects. I still can't believe people actually managed to connect AK4 to AK26 with conductive paint, using a paper clip as a brush! just one nervous twitch and it's all over (how are you supposed to remove paint from a surface that small?).
If you're good with wiring something that small, then it's a nice project. If not, then you can always go the powerleap adapter route, which is safer and faster, just alot more expensive. (well, not THAT much more expensive if you have to spend $30 to buy conductive paint and $5 for nail polish :/ )
The really hard thing to learn though, is what certain terms mean, such as "vss", "ground", vttgrd", and "so on, especially when you've never studied IC' or semconductors before. Even with people explaining, it's still not the most obvious thing to grasp.
When someone says they "connected AK4 to AK26", it means that they used a wire (insulated between the edges), or conductive paint (VERY hard to do) to connect the two pins together--pin AK4 to pin AK26. All the numbers you are seeing are the names of the pins. Bridging, wiring, connecting....all the same terms.
It really isn't THAT Hard to do if you have some wiring or electronics experience.....but the space between the pins are VERY small....so that might be an issue for those who are not that good at working on such small objects. I still can't believe people actually managed to connect AK4 to AK26 with conductive paint, using a paper clip as a brush! just one nervous twitch and it's all over (how are you supposed to remove paint from a surface that small?).
If you're good with wiring something that small, then it's a nice project. If not, then you can always go the powerleap adapter route, which is safer and faster, just alot more expensive. (well, not THAT much more expensive if you have to spend $30 to buy conductive paint and $5 for nail polish :/ )
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2001
- Location
- EU, Finland
The easier way:
From News-groups... it looks like Powerleap has released version 2.0 of its adapter with onboard voltage-adjustment!
"Subject:
Re: BH6 rev 1.0 lives on! Now at 1.2 ghz!, now at 1.6!
Date:
Mon, 22 Apr 2002 19:07:43 -0400
From:
"PowerleapTech" <[email protected]>
Newsgroups:
alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.abit
References:
1 , 2 , 3 , 4
Hi.
Actually we did update the PL-iP3/T recently, to version 2.0. It does have
voltage jumpers, so it can more easily overclock now. The new manual will
be posted ASAP, sorry for the delay."
From News-groups... it looks like Powerleap has released version 2.0 of its adapter with onboard voltage-adjustment!
"Subject:
Re: BH6 rev 1.0 lives on! Now at 1.2 ghz!, now at 1.6!
Date:
Mon, 22 Apr 2002 19:07:43 -0400
From:
"PowerleapTech" <[email protected]>
Newsgroups:
alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.abit
References:
1 , 2 , 3 , 4
Hi.
Actually we did update the PL-iP3/T recently, to version 2.0. It does have
voltage jumpers, so it can more easily overclock now. The new manual will
be posted ASAP, sorry for the delay."