Lower-flow Cathar clone...

RonnieG · Jan 10, 2003

Lower-pressure Cathar block...

So I've decided to try my hand on this micro-channel thing... Sloppy work:

The channels are 1mm wide, probably wider...

I was supposed to optimize it for lower (NOT low) pressure pumps. I did the ff:

- More fins. They're now 20mm across, versus Cathar's 15mm. Total of 11 micro channels.

-Base is 3mm thick above the die, and roll down to 1mm at the edges, for a bit more "spreading" effect...

Did I do it wrong?

Now I'm thinking of sharpening (or at least rounding) the tips of the fins so that they can "slice" through water better, and consequently have more water impinging the bottom. What do you think?

EDIT: base thickness above die is 3mm

NeoMoses · Jan 10, 2003

looks nice. I wouldn't call that sloppy at all. I wouldn't think that sharpening the tips of the fins would do much, but if you have the time, try both ways. Let us know which performs better.

Les56 · Jan 10, 2003

Re: Lower-pressure Cathar block...

RonnieG said:
The channels are 1mm wide, probably wider.....
......
I was supposed to optimize it for lower (NOT low) pressure pumps. I did the ff:

- More fins. They're now 20mm across, versus Cathar's 15mm. Total of 11 micro channels.
....

Sums suggest that heat-spreading would indeed be required .
For a uniform velocity profile (from http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98574&perpage=15&pagenumber=6 ) :

and

Seal · Jan 10, 2003

cool, remember to post lots more pics and results when ur done!

RonnieG · Jan 10, 2003

Oh BTW I'll be cooling a 150W TBird with this (voltage in excess of 2.3V at 1666MHz or more). I feel that some "spreading" is going to be needed with this kind of heat load...

Correction: My base thickness above the die is actually 3mm. I measured it this time

Xception · Jan 10, 2003

Looks to me like the channels will all be the same height as the lid which would effectively seal the channels that the input and exit are not covering. How you gonna get the water from one side of the block to the other? If you put your input and exit in the middle then its only going to pick up 3 or 4 channels. In my opinion you need to cut across those channels to get the water moving through them.
I am no expert at all, just making an observation.
Wish I had the guts to do something like that.

SemiCycle · Jan 10, 2003

It doesn't look bad at all. I'd be interested in seeing the finished product. Post more when you get the chance.

[EG]~NaTz~ · Jan 10, 2003

yah that is quit sweet looking. i like it. how did u go about cutting the channels a saw? oh and how thick are ur fins?

JFettig · Jan 10, 2003

wow! Very nice man! What did you use? im guessing hacksaw or dremel, I use a dremel mandrel with cutting wheels in my mill, it works very acurately and nicely! fiber reinforced wheels are .045inches wide, heavy duty are .04inches wide and the regular ones are like .025inches wide

Mikeonatrike · Jan 10, 2003

Im thinking of trying my hand at micro chanel, but i cant do them so micro, the smallest cutter on the cnc mill is like 2.5 mm diameter. Not quite a micro channel but hey! It will be interesting to see if it performs as well.

RonnieG · Jan 11, 2003

You guessed right, I used a hacksaw with a new 24TPI blade. I just laid on some pencil lines 2mm apart and started sawing where the lines were. The channels are probably ~1.2mm, fins are ~0.8mm. In under 2 hours you'll have this. Isn't it ironic that a simple hacksaw can turn out more micro-channels in less time than $1000 equipment? No that was just a joke...

Ok so here's the plan:

1) I'll be brazing on some copper blocks to both ends, as depicted by the BLUE rectangles.

2) The fins inside the GREEN rectangles will be chopped down and will serve as the outlet cavity. The outlet cavity can extend to the BLUE area if necessary.

If my theory is correct, which is unlikely

, most of the cooling will happen within the 21mm x 21mm area bounded by the RED rectangle. I assume that keeping the fins short (number 2 above) will reduce drag. There is no need to have fins outside the RED ZONE right?

3) the YELLOW rectangle is the nozzle which isn't of the final dimensions yet...

JFettig · Jan 11, 2003

looks pretty good man!, I think youll have to make the nozzle narrower, You mite want to play with diff widths

bigben2k · Jan 11, 2003

FWIW.

Cathar's 15mm size was based on his calculation that fins that are located more than 2mm outside the core area, aren't that usefull.

I'm doing the same, but in a radial pattern.
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4669

I set (finally!) the fin diameter to 25mm, to cover for a Barton core which, by preliminary pictures, looks to be wider than TBred B's.

JML · Jan 11, 2003

bigben- could you post a pic here for those of us not registered to pro cooling

Liss · Jan 11, 2003

RonnieG said:
You guessed right, I used a hacksaw

the secert is out!>. w00t!.. lol

now everyone can make microchannels for next to nothing...

btw: you did a he|| of a good job.. looks damn sexy

2 hours eh?
hmmmm..
i might have to try this...

Shroomer · Jan 12, 2003

I can't wait to see some more progress on this block. I'm guessing this will be the next "do it yourself" block to beat. Love to see it go up against a Rotor design.

Cathar · Jan 12, 2003

bigben2k said:
I set (finally!) the fin diameter to 25mm, to cover for a Barton core which, by preliminary pictures, looks to be wider than TBred B's.

Yes, when you go with radial fins you need to extend them out further in all directions. Technically this does have the potential to offer more workable surface area than the parallel fin model, but there are other obstacles to overcome of which I'm sure you're intimately familiar with. With the parallel fin model you really only have to worry about heat spreading in two dimensions rather than 3, which means you can get away with using a surprisingly narrow channel area, and the corresponding coolant velocity benefits that go along with that. Six of one, half dozen of the other...

Freeloader · Jan 12, 2003

So I've decided to try my hand on this micro-channel thing... Sloppy work:

I think that looks incredibly clean for a hacksaw. Did you make some kind of jig to keep the blade straight and parallel? That looks too good for freehand.

Seal · Jan 13, 2003

thats awesome, its really cool how that proves the fact that you dont need expensive tools or machines to make very good wb's. This post has persuaded me into looking at making my own wb. How would i go about attaching bits of copper togeather though. Would soldering them togeather be sufficient?

RonnieG · Jan 20, 2003

Here's a bit more development on the block. Sorry for the slow progress, this is just a hobby...

I've soldered the endblocks with some lead-free solder (Sn96.5/Ag3.5) under a butane torch.

WARNING: Do not use LEAD solder for these kinds of projects. Machining/sanding the lead will create toxic lead dust and may cause neurological, reproductive damage, and birth defects.

Now time to work on the acrylic...

Freeloader, yes it's not completely freehand. I had some aluminum blocks C-clamped to help guide the blade.

Lower-flow Cathar clone...

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