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Pics of my single pass mod

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br408408

Registered
Joined
Jul 2, 2003
Location
Central Florida
This is the 2-302 modded to single pass. the threaded insert started out at a 3/8 female to 1/2 male pipe adapter. I could have used a lathe on it, but wanted to use tools that everyone might be able to use. So I found a bolt that fit inside it and chucked it up in a drill. Using the drill to spin it I ground the trheads off using a 4 inch grinder with a non-ferfous wheel. Checking it after grinding it, it came out within .002-.003 of an inch of being round...good enough for what I was going to do with it. Then I cut of the end of it right at the end of the female threads. The OD came out at about .710 of an inch, or 23/32. I then drilled a 23/32 hole in some scrap angle to use as a guide for the trusty Dermel. Drill a small hole in the center of the core (don't push to hard as the soft copper will bend) and use the guide it open the hole up to 23/32.
Then, put the insert in and solder as Weapon instructs in this thread....filling with water, using wet towels...etc
Also, some people have asked what the core looks like where the water passes thru...you can see this in "corepic4"



Moved pics here as this thread is about the B'ville core, and I should have posted it here in the first place link
 
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uh afaik you should have made the hole on the opposite side of the other hole becasue now wont the water flow easiest through the midde?

please correct me if im wrong
 
greenman100 said:
not if he uses the old inlet and outlet both as the inlets or outlets

You are right...that's my plan.

SomaGaze said:
don't worry about what i think. it might have gotten more attention if you did, that's all...


I thought I posted it under "Water Cooling", but right after posting I went to look for it and couldn't find it....then I thought to myself, you dummy, you must have posted it in the wrong place...and sure enough I did...oh well.



One thing I forgot to state above was that I put the brass fitting in a 400 deg. oven (my girlfriend was sleeping at the time...lol) so that I could keep torch time as short as I could on the core.
 
very nice job. that is a tricky one - the ridges that can be seen thru the hole in the 1st pics are the problem. those suckers are amazingly delicate. One slip with a drill that allows any contact between even a slowly moving drill bit and the material under the bottom tank is normally another trip to the autoparts store to get another core.
 
weapon said:
very nice job. that is a tricky one - the ridges that can be seen thru the hole in the 1st pics are the problem. those suckers are amazingly delicate. One slip with a drill that allows any contact between even a slowly moving drill bit and the material under the bottom tank is normally another trip to the autoparts store to get another core.

Thanks weapon.....and a very good point about a slip with the drill. It might be a good idea to take a small drill bit (1/8 to 5/32) and break it off so that it is about an inch long. Then chuck it up in the drill so that only a 1/4 inch or less is sticking out. That way if you slip when the drill breaks thru the tank, you won't be able to reach the core and damage it. After drilling the small hole, I no longer used a drill anyway. I opened the hole up with a Dermel and the template that I made.

One other nice thing about this mod is that if you want to go back to dual pass, all you have to do is screw a pipe plug in the fitting and remove your Y from the stock inlet and outlet

Bill
 
I sell these and have had several people interested in single pass. Maybe I will make up a batch and see how they sell. I have like 25 rads sitting in box's waiting to be worked on. I would sweated out the inlets, and then just used a plug ont them. :)

BUT, post some tepms 1st. I highly doubt you will notice muchof a drop, if at all....but I am curious! :)
 
You can't plug one of the inlets or you will only have flow in half of the core. They must be connected together with a Y. I will post temps when I get the setup built. Might be a little while as we have had a hurricane here in Florida (no power for 4 days and no DSL for a week) and I am backed up on computers of other people to work on. Mine must come last :( It will be going on the P4 in my sig. I am stuck at 3525 mhz because of temps right now....it's stable, but temps are 63-65c when running Prime95 or a video encoder that I use. I am going water cause I don't want a 120mm Tornado screaming in my ear.

Nice o/c on that A64 BTW. And the PROMETEIA...I can only wish

Bill
 
WA2 said:
I sell these and have had several people interested in single pass. Maybe I will make up a batch and see how they sell. I have like 25 rads sitting in box's waiting to be worked on. I would sweated out the inlets, and then just used a plug ont them. :)

BUT, post some tepms 1st. I highly doubt you will notice muchof a drop, if at all....but I am curious! :)

2-342?

no need to reinvent the wheel
 
br408408 said:
You can't plug one of the inlets or you will only have flow in half of the core. They must be connected together with a Y. I will post temps when I get the setup built. Might be a little while as we have had a hurricane here in Florida (no power for 4 days and no DSL for a week) and I am backed up on computers of other people to work on. Mine must come last :( It will be going on the P4 in my sig. I am stuck at 3525 mhz because of temps right now....it's stable, but temps are 63-65c when running Prime95 or a video encoder that I use. I am going water cause I don't want a 120mm Tornado screaming in my ear.

Nice o/c on that A64 BTW. And the PROMETEIA...I can only wish

Bill

no no no no ;)

Plug the inlets then drill and tap a new hole on top. :)
 
Doing this give you a broader range of sizes with single pass ;) I have been wanting to make my chevette single pass for a while. I think that would mostly be bragging rights though, lol.
 
I was thinking about doing this for what I need, but in the end the 2-342 worked better. I needed a core that was ~5.9" across - the 2-342 isnt' but the bonneville core is. What got me with the 2-342 was that it was shorter.

This is an good solution if you need a narrower core and have a dual-inlet block IMO. Anyways (sorry for a partial thread jack), thats a great job. Another thing to note is that this mod will allow flexability to some because the 2-342 has the inlet/outlet sticking out perpendicular to the core's face - some might need that inlet (or outlet) running parallel with the water pathways.
 
WA2 said:
no no no no ;)

Plug the inlets then drill and tap a new hole on top. :)

The tank with the factory inlet/outlet has a divider in the center of it forcing the water to flow thru one side of the core, cross over to the other side thru the other tank (the one I put a fitting in) and then back up thru the other side, and out thre the factory outlet. If I were to make my new fitting the outlet, there would be no single place on the tank in the photo that I could put a fitting to feed both sides of the core.

The tank blocks one side of the core from the other at the red line. Steady hand I had, drawing that line...lol...better go get a beer :beer: ...lol

Bill
 

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