As you can see the heatsink is pritty small, and it dose warm up a lot, but not so hot you can't touch it. I have an 80mm fan pointing it its general direction so give it some airflow which helps alot. Also these 1084 regs are functional up to 125c, so its safe for the reg itself to run as hot as it dose. You would need a bigger sink if you wanted to run it passive though
EDIT: Hey they have a post count now. 10 more and i crack 1200!
As you can see the heatsink is pritty small, and it dose warm up a lot, but not so hot you can't touch it. I have an 80mm fan pointing it its general direction so give it some airflow which helps alot. Also these 1084 regs are functional up to 125c, so its safe for the reg itself to run as hot as it dose. You would need a bigger sink if you wanted to run it passive though
EDIT: Hey they have a post count now. 10 more and i crack 1200!
Hi and thanks a bunch for that picture & congratulations on your quad core work sounds like a beast of a machine.
The only thing i didn't see in the picture was the LT1084. would i be right saying that the pegs are put into the pcb soldered then it is bent laying down on the pcb with metal side up and then the heat sink is bolted to that through the hole in the middle of the LT1084 ?
The LT1083 i have are 1&5/8 " tall or just over 4 cm tall so i am a bit worried on how it is mounted to the pcb & heat sink.
Looking at you picture I see that i should be able to make 2 seperate units side by side and still be able to have them fit into one drive bay. I was thinking of using a strip of solid copper for the heat sink once i figure out how to mount it.
Also this is my first time and I was thinking i needed a pcb board like 4"X6" until i seen your picture. I am going to be running two 172mm san ace fans for exhaust they draw 2.8A each and 4 Sunon fans that draw 3A 36W each so two controllers should do it. As for the bracket I was going to strip a older cd drive down and use that if possible. Got all my fans in except the san ace there due in a couple of days to arrive, I have already tested the Sunon on a seperate Adj power supply they sound like a Hair dryer almost lol
Thanks again for the picture that was a big help you and Bing have helped me a ton.
The only thing i didn't see in the picture was the LT1084. would i be right saying that the pegs are put into the pcb soldered then it is bent laying down on the pcb with metal side up and then the heat sink is bolted to that through the hole in the middle of the LT1084 ?
Yep, you're right ! It looks like Hip was bending that IC's face downward (to the PCB) and the metal part is facing up so he can screw it to the heatsink.
I believe yours will need bigger since it is on higher current.
amandpm247 said:
The LT1083 i have are 1&5/8 " tall or just over 4 cm tall so i am a bit worried on how it is mounted to the pcb & heat sink.
My suggestion is forget bout the cosmetic and the mounting.
Focus on building the 1st one until it is working, assume it is the experimental rabbit.
Once you got one fully working, then you will have the "morale" boost on making it looks better on the next.
Imagine you've spent too much worry & effort building two controller and both ended up none of them are working and it will take lot of time to trace back all those solders and it will be a big mess !
amandpm247 said:
Looking at you picture I see that i should be able to make 2 seperate units side by side and still be able to have them fit into one drive bay. I was thinking of using a strip of solid copper for the heat sink once i figure out how to mount it.
That potentiometer doesn't have to be soldered at the PCB, it can be connected through wires (two) so it will easier to hook it up on the front panel.
One last important thing since you're using high current circuit, watch out for those lines that I noted in the schematic on using thick wire/pcb trace, if they're too thin, your circuit will catch fire, seriously.
Those wire size like the one used in molex connector is enough.
Thanks for the extra info Bing anything helps, I will make sure i post pictures once all the parts arrive before I do any permanent, that way you can check it out before soldering is done.
will do.. all parts ordered just waiting for them to arrive then i will take a shot of the parts board everything close up. It might be a week before everything arrives maybe sooner with any luck.
most of the parts are here except for the heatsinks & breadboard when they arrive will be posting pictures
I have got a variety pack of different heatsinks including solid copper 1/2"thick 3/8"thick &1/4"thick I will take a shot of all the heatsinks and you can give me your input on which to use.
So you're buying breadboard, that is good for your 1st time !
Do you still planning to stuck multiple ICs into single heatsink, cause you might need to buy a thermal pad and nylon washer to isolate them electrically, sorry, forgot to mention this in your shopping list.
Something look like these.
Also an electrically isolated heatsink is good even you put single IC on at the heastsink, that because it's metal body is live and equal to output, and if the heatsink is large, there is a chance that it might get shorted by accident somewhere in side the casing, consider this matter as well.
So you're buying breadboard, that is good for your 1st time !
Do you still planning to stuck multiple ICs into single heatsink, cause you might need to buy a thermal pad and nylon washer to isolate them electrically, sorry, forgot to mention this in your shopping list.
Also an electrically isolated heatsink is good even you put single IC on at the heastsink, that because it's metal body is live and equal to output, and if the heatsink is large, there is a chance that it might get shorted by accident somewhere in side the casing, consider this matter as well.
I have 25pcs of the top left in your picture..
2 ICs in one drive bay each seperate pcb & heatsinks <--in long run but for now your right ....just build one on breadboard see how it goes.
Question-> picture says Maintain all components distances within blue box maximum 5 cm ...is that distances of parts together or whole project 5cm size?
He..he.., actually you can be more relax on that distance, I was abit exaggerated !
Since this is a linear circuit, you can bet each components distances can be at 5 cm and the whole circuit can be as large as a hard drive area ! And that is a quite large area for such simple circuit.
One thing though, both capacitors, it's lead/leg should be close to the IC, the closer the better, 3 to 5 cm of trace/wire distance is still safe though !
I believe once you got one working, you will be aiming for smaller circuit on next built !
Thanks Bing for clearing that up for me.
Got home from work and had like 5 packages at door step, figured it would be the breadboard but it wasn't, mostly heatsinks and one other package that contained a OP-AMP IC Experimental Breadboard & a Prepunched Perfboard, this is not the breadboard that I am waiting for, it is another item I bought off ebay, the picture was not good but i took the chance and got it for a possible back-up incase i bought the wrong breadboard.
I think the prepunched perfboard would do, just to put the parts in to make sure I got it right....I'll take pictures when everything gets here... few more heatsinks, breadboard, etc...
Also searching for fan Headers for down the road on the finished product... I almost bought these..... http://www.futurlec.com/Connectors/POLHDRR3.shtml ......they look just want I want to add for the fan conection to the unit but I am not real sure there for a female fan conector so i am holding off till i find out.
should be putting it together this week, I will be taking pictures this evening and posting them with any luck, of the parts i have so far most have arrived but a few heatsinks have not and a breadboard I thought i ordered but didn't so i ordered one today.
There is some solid copper there 3 pcs are 1/2 inch thick one is 1/4 they can be cut down and drilled as needed otherwise i have several other heatsinks that might work.
I do need to get close up shots once i figure out how to do that with the camera.
There is some Thermal pcb one ounce single sided .60thick i planed on using down the road with a couple of kits from radio shack for the etching.
Just waiting for the breadboard to arrive.
Ok Bing I will try my best to get that for you this evening, I did change the capacitors from surface mount to the other style with the legs.
Should i try to take better pictures of the other stuff?
Here is a picture of the Capacitor real sorry it not to clear if its not clear enough i can try a tripod for the camera and maybe with any luck it might come out better?
Also i took a shot of the diodes, resistors, one prototype PCB front & back not sure if its usable or not for this project, & two heat sinks I am in favor of esp the Silver one that is 3"wide 5&3/8 Long & 1&3/8 tall pretty thick base also, I kept buying heat sinks then when they would arrive they would look inefficient,small etc then finally i got a few that looked heavy enough.
I'm really sorry, I have to use some my own pics since yours are blurry, but again, I think its more than enough, no more pic shooting game, its time for building the circuit.
Let start the pictorials !
1st, about the polarity, watch this pic :
The capacitor :
I used 2 of mine and with yours in the middle, watch the (+) sign at both, those are the polarity sign for positive.
Although yours is blurry, but I'm pretty sure that the right leg is the positive.
Remember, watch for the polarity when you install them at the breadboard or when you put them in the PCB.
If you put it at wrong polarity, it will be toasted.
The diode :
Its pretty straight forward, the white ring marker at the diode is the arrow head.
For this circuit, it you put it backward, will short the circuit, so becarefull !
The potentiometer :
The pot's symbol has 3 pins with one unconnected, that is how you should connect them.
Just leave the right one untouched, although you can use swap them from the left to right, then when you turn clock wise, the fan will getting slower instead of faster (lower voltage), so it's up to you !
Of course "usually" people will use clock wise for increasing the speed.
Since you said this is your 1st time, example of breadboarding.
Watch for those legs in the inset, I stripped some cable insulations and use them as a jacket to protect that capacitor's leg from touching with the nearby component's leg. Don't let them touch each other.
Another example when bread boarding, ghetto cooling from old chipset heatsink and with a strong paper clip, it works quite well for me.
I believe your LT1083 also looks like this right ? Watch how I extend their legs using thinner solid core cables since they're too large to plug into the breadboard's hole.
Another example what to expect from bread-boarding, look at the bottom pic, my electronic rat nest. LOL
Again, as you said this is your 1st time, since this is a quite high current circuit, I suggest you put some google or glasses when you power it up for the 1st time, no, I don't mean to scare you, its just a really good practice when working with electronic.
Just don't want something exploded and a piece of that thing flying straight through your eyes. Example HERE, an exploding cable.
Oh yeah, 1st rule on breadboarding before you hook up with the power, recheck, recheck, recheck and ... recheck and verify all conections and polarities.
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