POT for DICE

Khemikal said:

I really hope you got the priority shipping. That is the BIGGEST problem with the international shipping of these pots to the US. As Bartx posted yesterday somewhere, it takes about 3 months if you go normal shipping, but only 5-14 days if you go with priority shipping of some kind. For the extra $10-15 it really seems to be worth it.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up! Read your post and then sent him a PM. Its Priority mail.

EDIT: 6 to 14 days!

Generally speaking, a dice pot has better temps for dice, and an LN2 pot has more temp stability for LN2.

LN2 in a dice pot you're pouring little bits really often.
Dice in a ln2 pot you're not getting as cold of temps as you could.


Examples:

My koolance rev2 gets temps around 12*c colder then a F1EE on dry ice. Huge!
However, the F1EE makes LN2 easy, the Koolance rev2? Not so much.
If your chip has no coldbug and no coldbootbug (like Phenom II's) the koolance gets colder temps on LN2, too.


That said, you can totally use a dice pot on LN2 and vice versa.

I've got a cold question...

Last night I think most people implied Kyle's problem was the board causing the CBB. Miah and Brolloks both mentioned playing with settings could help get around it a bit - Ed said stuff about disabling some things in bios, setting them through ELEET. Miah mentioned tweaking some stuff also, but he had to go and his connection sucked.

So the question:

I've read a bit about current AMDs being a lot of fun on cold because they don't have coldbug problems... Do they not have any coldbug problems? Do they also not have ColdBoot bug problems?

Common sense tells me that if board related issues could cause CBB on Intel, then you'd still see CBB problems occasionally with some boards on AMD... Unless theres some architectural difference that is relevant to cold between the platforms. Thats entirely possible, but I just haven't heard much about cold bugs on current AMD stuff.

I was under the impression that the most pertinent item currently with coldbug related issues was the Intel IMC. Just trying to flesh out my understanding of the issue - what variables effect when it hits (hardware and settings). With talking about pots and temperature control, seems like a good time to ask.

Cold bugs are more common on the CPU rather than the Board. For instance, the Intel CPUs have a cold bug, and the Cross IV also has a bit of a cold bug (doesn't like LHe).

AMD CPUs have no cold bug. You can put them at the coldest temperature and start them at stock settings and run it 24/7. It is because of this, that AMD is favored when playing with extreme temperatures. Its more a fun factor, not so much for the world record breaking though.

AMD cpus have no coldbug at all.
Some intel CPUs have no cold bug, but intel boards have a tendency towards bugging too.

My theory is that it is because of the different ways to protect against CPU overheating and meltdown.

AMDs is entirely on chip, while Intels is on the chip and the motherboard.
Intels works better (can't fry 'em) then AMDs (can fry 'em, but it's hard), but causes more issues when cold.

That's just my personal theory though.

Gotcha, cool.

I have a slightly silly question:

We obtain -18C in the lab by using acetone/ice. Would this be worth testing out on a benching system? The ice will melt faster than dry CO₂ will, and you'll get water so you need to start from half-full at best (probably want to pre-cool the pot before switching on) but it might be a cheaper option than dice.

David

My thought is that wouldnt the pot fill up with water? Where does the water go when melted? In the pot right? The C02 just evaps into the air, right?

You'd be sucking water out of the pot a lot, but other then that it would totally work.

You'd need a lot of ice though.

And a lot of suction. There would be more risk with that method I would imagine...

What you need david, is one of those cold lasers. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_cooling

Last I heard, they got 1 point away from absolute Zero with that technique.

You'd need to make it half-full first, then add ice to it as it melts, perhaps. Ideally you'd want to put the pot in the freezer overnight first maybe.

It's probably a stopgap option really.

Wouldnt the pot just fill up? Im asking where the water goes....the process of using such a dangerous substance and adding another process to remove the water, just doesnt sound like it would be worth it. When do you tweak? Between adding ice and sucking it out?

Excuse my ignornace.

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if your going to try to use H2o Ice, i would go for an ice water TEC loop
or just straight ice water loop.

get a submersible pump, a BIG ol' cooler, many bags of ice, and then either a "normal" water-block or a TEC / water-block.
the real trick is the insulation of the loop since the water running through it is "ice"water, the tubing will need to be insulated.


here is a pic of a Viper John TEC water-block setup for ice water
(x1900XTX Master card)









LOOONG story short, your going to go through a LOT of work and not be satisfied with a H2o Ice setup... just go D-ice.






.

I did that on a CPU, it was my first extreme cooling setup.
It ate 12lbs of ice in a bit over an hour, and got down to -20ish on the cold side of the tec.