- Joined
- Oct 10, 2012
- Location
- Secret lair
Quick question
Sandwich a TEC between waterblocks... For the hot side, it's almost a no-brainer, just get a (cheap) CPU waterblock: an HK, or Supreme or Apogee.
Since the microfin/pin baseplate design is probably the best to get rid of the watts at the TEC hot side. No need to re-invent the wheel here.
sample
However, i'm not so sure if slapping a similar CPU Waterblock on the cold side is such a good idea.
To me it feels that the microfin/pin design could dramatically increase the chances of icing if you allow the TEC cold side to drop too low (eg idle load)
So, i'm wondering what would be the best "design" for the cold side waterblock base to minimise the freezing chance while still provinding good flow & thermal transfer ("cold" pickup)?
Diamond like the Apogee GT ?
Piramid studs like the old Koolance blocks?
Crosscut like micropins, but with large/normal pins?
Channelled like the old DD Maze?
Just "flat" would work also of course, but it would be also be the "lowest performance" and i'ld like to do somewhat better.
I can ask the metalshop around the corner to mill me a (couple of) full copper custom waterblock(s), but i need to come up with a design for the baseplate. And my head is slightly spinning
(And yes, having them mill "channels" would probably be cheaper as "diamonds")
But... am i not overthinking it all?
Might it not just be easier to buy 8 CPU blocks?
And stop worrying?
Sandwich a TEC between waterblocks... For the hot side, it's almost a no-brainer, just get a (cheap) CPU waterblock: an HK, or Supreme or Apogee.
Since the microfin/pin baseplate design is probably the best to get rid of the watts at the TEC hot side. No need to re-invent the wheel here.
sample
However, i'm not so sure if slapping a similar CPU Waterblock on the cold side is such a good idea.
To me it feels that the microfin/pin design could dramatically increase the chances of icing if you allow the TEC cold side to drop too low (eg idle load)
So, i'm wondering what would be the best "design" for the cold side waterblock base to minimise the freezing chance while still provinding good flow & thermal transfer ("cold" pickup)?
Diamond like the Apogee GT ?
Piramid studs like the old Koolance blocks?
Crosscut like micropins, but with large/normal pins?
Channelled like the old DD Maze?
Just "flat" would work also of course, but it would be also be the "lowest performance" and i'ld like to do somewhat better.
I can ask the metalshop around the corner to mill me a (couple of) full copper custom waterblock(s), but i need to come up with a design for the baseplate. And my head is slightly spinning
(And yes, having them mill "channels" would probably be cheaper as "diamonds")
But... am i not overthinking it all?
Might it not just be easier to buy 8 CPU blocks?
And stop worrying?