Normal core voltage A10-6800K??

My bios claims 1.275V on initial install. Seems like not enough. What is the safe voltage range for that CPU?


Thanks

Is it not stable at 1.275? And that may not be a static number. It may go up and down according to load because of turbo and other green technology. Are you asking about voltage with a view to overclocking the chip?

Hi,
Just looking for a good voltage to power this CPU. Not much need to overclock.
Just enough to support streaming video,
Sometime live feed from Networks.
I am thinking about boosting the GPU,
just need to activate with a flip of a switch on MB.

What is the max voltage?

If it's stable and not overclocked then it should be fine at factory setting. Are you having issues?

Johan45,

Yes, I still occasionally get the BSOD. My wife likes to stream network television, usually four screens or camera views at a time. That is why I questioned the voltage, 1.275F, as being enough. I've ruled out a heat problem by installing the Noctua NH-D15. I usually leave the windows open and our inside temps hover around 85-88. Love that trade-wind breeze.

Normal Cpu Voltage...

...is the voltage programmed into the cpu and reported to the motherboard bios for the bios to set the cpu to use. Generally, that is
normal cpu voltage.

Model number A10-6800K
CPU part numbers
AD680KWOA44HL is an OEM/tray microprocessor
AD680KWOHLBOX is a boxed microprocessor

Frequency 4100 MHz Default
Turbo frequency 4400 MHz Max TurboCore
Boosted P states
#1: 4400 MHz, 1.325V
#2: 4300 MHz, 1.25V
#3: 4200 MHz, 1.15V

The information you give is not nearly enough to diagnose the streaming issue or the now and again BSOD problem.

IF the cpu is left to run as designed it should have cpu speed of 4.1Ghz at idle. Then based on load and temps the cpu itself can boost the cpu speed all the way up to 4.4Ghz "and" increase the voltage to the cpu up to around 1.325V. That upper cpu voltage can vary somewhat from cpu to cpu depending on how AMD tested it and how it performed when factory tested.

So from what we have been given as information, there is nothing to tell us if the cpu is in fact performing as designed. How much voltage can you zap the cpu with? I googled that cpu across the net using up to 1.4Vcore when overclocked to 4.7Ghz manually. So probably at least 1.4V is used by some. However how warm the cpu is when running under load is critical. How much cpu voltage can be added is also dependent on how hot the cpu seems to be running when under load.

Raise the Vcore some if you wish. See 'if' doing so stops your BSODs. Oddly I doubt it fixes the BSODs, but you never know without trying and that trying, testing is at the local level since every system is different, one from another.
RGone...

Your problem with BSOD could be caused by a ton of things. Everything from a buggy driver to a faulty memory module.

And just because you installed the Noctua cooler doesn't mean you can rule out overheating. If the case has poor ventilation or the cooler base isn't making good contact with the CPU face for some reason then it can't do it's job.

I think the first thing is to check load temps. Download and install Prime95 and HWMonitor (non pro version). Open HWMonitor on the desktop and make sure the frame is adjusted so that "package" temps are in view. Then run a 20 minute Prime95 "blend" test with HWMonitor still open. Before closing HWMonitor, capture it's image on the desktop (Windows Accessories Snipping Tool is good for this) and attach the image with a post so we can review it. By the way, HWMonitor also gives max and min CPU voltages. To attach images use the Go Advanced button at the bottom of any new post window and find the little paperclip tool at the top of the advanced post window. That will load the file browser/download tool and the rest will be obvious.

Having said that, if you give your CPU voltage a bump of about .025 it certainly would not hurt anything if the chip is in fact being cooled properly.

Today 9/10
Cleared RTC Ram and cycled the battery
Just running bare basic Bios, no advanced settings
Ran about 3 hrs, shut down.
I took my wife to dialysis and came home to run some aforementioned tests.
Decided to remove the heatsink, again. Plenty of Arctic 5, excess removed with straight-edge. Again the heatsink adhered so well it pulled the CPU from the socket. I know, not a good thing but I check the pins for straightness.

I found upon removal, that again it appeared to have Goldilocks compound, not too much, not too little. I then went to Noctua's site and read their FAQ's. From Noctua:Why is the cooler’s contact surface slightly convex?
As the Integrated Heat Spreaders (IHS) of today’s CPUs are slightly concave, the cooler’s contact surface has been deliberately designed to be slightly convex in order to ensure optimal contact. This way, more contact pressure will be applied at the centre of the IHS directly above the DIE, which results in better heat transfer and improved overall performance. My finding is that the center of the IHS is convex.
When I put a drop of Arctic Silver 5, 2 mm, on the center of the CPU and passed the straight- edge over it only spread the diameter of a dime, so I added enough to cover the case. I then pressed the CPU to the HS, applied some pressure and turned the two against each other. Put everything back together.

It has now been running Prime 95, a set of 4, for 45 minutes. Idle temp 133f and running Prime 95, it is holding 188-193f.

I think the problem is over.

Thanks to all for the amount of great info.

If I may, I have one more problem with the "beast".
When all of this started, I made a clean install of Win 7-64. Now when the computer starts, it takes 4-5 minutes. My HD is a WDC 2T, that has always started in 2-3 minutes. I have reduced "msconfig" of unnecessary programs at start. No change, I have run defrag, I have checked the disc with WDC diag software, no failures. The drive is SATA 3G and I had it as an AHCI. Then I changed it to IDE, and didn't improve the loading of Windows.

What am I missing here?

Again, thank you. You all are appreciated.

It is the experience of many on this forum that AMD CPUs don't play well with Kingston ram without manually tweaking the timings. Apparently, Kingston's stock timings are geared toward Intel CPUs.

trents said:

It is the experience of many on this forum that AMD CPUs don't play well with Kingston ram without manually tweaking the timings. Apparently, Kingston's stock timings are geared toward Intel CPUs.

Click to expand...

If I may, what brands work well with AMD CPU's?

weetoots said:

If I may, what brands work well with AMD CPU's?

Click to expand...

Most work fine. By far, the most popular brand and the one that seems to have very rare compatibility issues with both AMD and Intel is GSkill. Their Ripjaws line is hugely popular and moderately priced.

trents said:

It is the experience of many on this forum that AMD CPUs don't play well with Kingston ram without manually tweaking the timings. Apparently, Kingston's stock timings are geared toward Intel CPUs.

Click to expand...

I had no problems with 2 Kingston kits on A8 6600K + ASRock A88X Extrem6+ board so I guess it's more about board compatibility than memory itself.
Looking at memory, most brands don't really care to make good profiles for AMD boards and most are optimized for new Intels. Still most kits, regardless of brand are working on Intel and AMD platforms.
Probably best XMP profiles that also work on AMD has G.Skill. They usually make 2 profiles that are almost the same but I've noticed that one of them is usually working better on AMD.

yea the boot time just goes down the drain once you update to SP1 and do all the updates.

yea it should be in AHCI mode for better performance as been claimed, also I hope you don't have some bad sectors but have you thought of getting SSD for your windows? my system doesn't load super fast but for sure faster than 2 minutes
also GPT vs MBR. I have GPT setup for my 3TB

Have you checked with the windows experience thingy about your hard drive performance?
some benchmarking might help but it depends on how your software is setup and how things were updated some process might be hanging the boot sequence.

I usually don't bother turning off my system. I rarely turn it off or restart it

GPT, what is that? MBR, Master Boot Record?
I Need to check AHCI setting.

New memory is here. G.Skill DDR3-2133
CL9-11-10-28 1.65v 4Gx2
F3-2133C9D-8GAB. PC3-17000

These are short sticks, they will have more breathing space. I will install tomorrow AM.

Again thank you.

GPT=GUID Partition Table en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GUID_Partition_Table
Used for drives over 2TB as MBR can't support drives that large (or at least shouldn't be used on drives that large) Note that IIRC, Windows CAN'T boot off GPT partitioned drives.

To check your RAM, run Memtest and let it run through 2 passes to be xtra sure.

From M$:

Can Windows 7, Windows Vista, and Windows Server 2008 read, write, and boot from GPT disks?

Yes, all versions can use GPT partitioned disks for data. Booting is only supported for 64-bit editions on UEFI-based systems.

Ahh I knew some version couldn't boot off GPT.
Thanks Rgone for clarifying!

Thanks to all, all problems gone. The GSKILL sticks work just fine,Perfection has been achieved.