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Bad PSU?

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Daddyjaxx

Daddyjaxx

Member
​
Joined
Jan 5, 2005
Location
Ormond Beach, FL.
Starting last night my computer would just shutoff. I turn it back on and it would shutoff, turn back on, shutoff, turn back on and keep doing that. Finally I got a messge that the computer stopped due to a PSU voltage spike. I cleared the BIOS and it finally stayed on. I went into voltage monitor in the BIOS and it was showing 11.25v on the 12v rail. I changed the pumps to full speed and it dropped to 10.5v and shut off again. Either the computer is reading it wrong or the PSU sounds bad. This PSU is an excellent PSU and had been running 99% efficiency. How can I test this? Could it be the VRM on the motherboard? I kind of doubt it since the pumps are only connected to the PWM to see the speeds.
 
I called Corsair. There are two lights on the PSU. They both should be green. One has been blinking red. That is a sign there is something wrong with the PSU or cables. I need to unplug all of the cables and run a self test. If it comes up green with no cables, then a cable could be bad. If it comes up red, the PSU is bad. If it comes up green, I have to attach one cable at a time to the PSU only to see which one is bad. I'm using the replacement Corsair single braided cables.

He's fairly certain the PSU is bad. Express RMA here I come.
 
This stinks. I finally get it together and get to use it like two weeks and now this. This has been the build that would drive the most sane person crazy and to boot, I have a lousy CPU that won't overclock worth crap and takes over 1.3v to run at stock settings. I would say I could blame the PSU, but when I checked Corsair Link a few days ago it was at 99% efficiency and the 12v line was at 11.99 or 12.00. Well, not anymore.

140922161549.jpg
 
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I know the software is not accurate, but it is not that inaccurate either. I'll test with a MM...if I can keep it on long enough to do it.
 
Daddyjaxx said:
I know the software is not accurate, but it is not that inaccurate either. I'll test with a MM...if I can keep it on long enough to do it.
Click to expand...

It definitely sounds like the PSU, but you never know. Which Corsair model do you have? is it the AX series?
 
An AX1500i. The guy asked me if the PSU was under warranty before he asked me what type. When I told him the model, he said of course it's under warranty. :)

1500w really isn't enough. With a slight CPU overclock and no GPU overclocks, it's already hitting close to 1300w as is when I run Furmark. At idle it uses about 375. With the CPU at load about 550.
 
Was it pulling 1300w from the wall or was it outputting 1300w? Because that psu isn't fully loaded until it's pulling 1666 watts from the wall (1666 x 90% efficiency at 100% load). If it's only pulling 1300 you are well cushioned from the psu max load.
 
That's from the wall. BTW, it's all fixed. It was self inflicted. I just wonder why it took three weeks to manifest itself as a problem. I was unplugging all of the cables to run the self check. I get to the 24 pin connections, there are two, a small plug and a larger one. I just gave the small one a tiny tug and out it came. That's when I said to myself that's the problem. I plugged all the plugs in tight and voila.

140922211528.jpg
 
I have a lousy CPU that won't overclock worth crap and takes over 1.3v to run at stock settings.
Click to expand...

Lack of clean power may also be the issue why you're having a tough time OCing the Cpu?!?! Maybe, give it another go now that the wires seem fixed, though if one of the cables is a bit loose you may want to replace it?
 
Glad it was a simple fix...

Just a note, PSU's do not run 99% efficient though. Your PSU is gold/platinum which is 89-92%. Not to mention efficiency wouldn't have anything to do with the issue as it stood. :)

+1 to Supertrucker clearing up the wattage issue as well.
 
It's actually Titanium certified. :)

That's correct. The problem was due to an idiot installing it. I'm all for modular PSUs, but is there any reason to make 24 pin modular really? It's not like it's an optional connection.
 
Ahh.. ok. That still doesn't make it 99% efficient. 94% at 50% load is the best you will get. :)

Back in the day, that 24 pin was 20 pin. Then came 24... hence the need for a 20+4. I haven't seen a 20 pin mobo in years though...but companies want compatibility I guess.
 
EarthDog said:
Ahh.. ok. That still doesn't make it 99% efficient. 94% at 50% load is the best you will get. :)
Click to expand...

Not mine. Since the CPU won't overclock, I'm overclocking my PSU.

I really need to take the multimeter to my CPU voltage. In the BIOS it shows like 1.16v. In Windows running at 1200MHz with Speedstep it shows 1.24v. Doesn't the CPU run at rated speed while running in BIOS?
 
Overclocking what? Never mind, lol...

There is a slight load in the bios, yes.... Which can cause vdroop. Obviously at Windows idle, there isn't a load so that us why hounded it where it is.
 
I thought there was a slight load in BIOS. I think it runs at rated speed, not counting Turbo or Speedstep. BTW, the one light is still blinking red. I think that is the connection to Carsair Link and not the PSU. This just started blinking red when I reinstalled the UPS connection to the PSU.

I guess Corsair Link is wrong when it reports 99% efficiency.

9-24-2014 10-36-45 PM.jpg
 
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