SP's AMD build!

Do you not use the mobile app?

If I may offer some suggestions.

1. Replace the straight fittings on you block for 90's.

2. Try and figure out a way to eliminate to other 90' between the res and block. (Each fitting is a potential leak point, not to mention aesthetics)

3. Make your own sleeved cables to run through the column(that's what it's for after all). This can come at a later date of course. I need to do the same for my last build.

4. IF- balance becomes an issue once the loop is filled, maybe go with a bigger base that extends further back.

Silver_Pharaoh said:

Okay wow. 2nd time using mobile version here, let's hope this works lol. Anyways, the CPU block is NOT nickle plated, it's highly polshed copper. EK Supremacy for AMD ONLY

Glad to hear it's a copper rad, so the actual corrosion will be minimal then good to know it won't have chunks and flakes of crap floating around in the loop lol.

I was able to make a section of PEX bend to my will, which eliminates the 2 90 elbows right after the pump

So the loop is setup like th is:
Res -- pump -- rad -- block -- back to res. Gravity still feeds pump, even though the line to the pump is uphill a bit. Is the loop in the correct order? IIRC Mr.Scott and other guys said as long as the res feeds the pump I'm golden.

Click to expand...

As long as all the materials are the same, you should have no galvanic corrosion at all. Glad to hear your radiator is brass on the inside, that'll prevent any galvanization. You're kinda mixing and matching parts, just want to make sure everything is copacetic before you invest too much time into this.

Theoretically speaking, block or radiator first doesn't matter. The same amount of heat is going into the system, and the radiator has the same cooling capacity, whether in front or behind the cpu block. Ive seen tales of a few degrees being gained or lost, but it really shouldn't matter (probably more related to a higher optimization in flow rate). And yes, reservoir ALWAYS before the pump by design.

One thing that WILL make a difference is all those kinks and 90's. As others have mentioned, you should really try to figure a way to smooth those out. And definitely try to get rid of that incline to the pump, surely you can sort that out a bit better. As it stands everything should "work", but some optimization will help get the most out of your system.

huh, pex.....

never thought of that for water cooling

Which cables are too short?

Wait till you try to bleed that. I see a bunch of trap points.

Oh yes. It's been running for almost 3 hours now. No leaks! But I still have small airbubbles to work out..... I got a lesson in pumps and loops from my neighbour (the plumber who came a installed the PEX clamps for me today) about air in loops and all that.

Seems I have lots to learn about loops

I still think it turned out great even with the amatuer mistakes. I was using PEX, that sh*t is hard to work with but I made it work. Would I use it again? Actually yes, but I would plan out the loop better. Res MUST be the highest point in the loop so that the air naturally flows out. Things I'll remember for next time

So yeah, the loop will run overnight, then I'll add the finishing touches to it. Eventually, I'll have to do a tear down, and I'll probably redesign the whole thing. PSU in the center coumln for cable management and for stability and the res, mounted higher.

First experience with water cooling is going swimmingly I'd say

@ Austin
This is the 4th time using the mobile site yeah. Maybe I shoulda got the mobile app...

@ Bassnut
The cables from the PSU are too short... If I move the PSU to the center though, it would be fine I bet.

@ Niku-Sama
Yep PEX. I had some here already, and my neighbour offered to help so I thought, instead of buying tubing and end up spending $40+ to have it shipped to my house, I'd have nothing to loose by trying the PEX. I can now say I cool my rig with PEX! Lol

EDIT: Forgot to ask. Should I drain the distilled water I'm running now (flush it out and re fill) or just add my anti-freeze (for biocide effects) and be done with my loop?

Temps?

I don't believe anti-freeze on it's own will be sufficient for anti-biological growth. I've read about other people who used anti-freeze with distilled water but still had growth in their loop (quite a lot of growth in one case).

Think you're going to need some other biocidal agent, such as Dead Water, PT Nuke, a Silver Kill Coil, or some other that people more into water-cooling might know of.

Temps? Only have the loop running lol. Need to hookup the GPU'd and HDD's still

For reference temps were 55C package 62C socket while folding on the GPU's.

@TT
Really?.... damn I thought 10% antifreeze would be enough?

Does anyone else know of another biocide other than looking for scrap .999 silver and ordering online?? (Shipping would be atleast double the actual price of PT nuke)

Maybe an fish/aquarium store???

I could probably send you a silver coil via standard snail mail. Just uncoil it and mail it in an envelope. I think the micro center here has them for like $5-8 dollars US. Not sure what the international mailing rates are though.

I'm actually going there on Wednesday or Thursday so let me know.

Copper sulfate at any pet store in the aquarium section. It's blue liquid.

I'll drop by the pet store after work!
If for some reason I can't find it, I'll work something out with you Blaylock.

Didn't know MC sold kill coils, I love that place now!!

Pet Smart does not carry Copper Sulfate

Blaylock, YHPM.



Would it be safe to run the rig as is for the next few days (24/7 like i usually do)? Without sulfate? Can I load up the CPU too?
I have some work units that the GPU's have to finish still...

Wow, surprising. Maybe a home improvement store in the sewage section? (It's used for the same reason we use it, except in septic systems)
Typically that will be granules instead of liquid, note.

Yes you can use the system for a bit till you get something in. Get your kill coil ...... If I can find a small bottle I can ship I'll fill it with water and add a couple of drops into it ...... you'll just have to add it to your loop after. Not sure where Ill find a suitable bottle though ...... might take me a bit.

you can use anything that kills alge in fish tanks, alge destroyer works well enough.
you might as well get used to running antifreeze, i know you'll be outside with it come winter and it gets a little cold up where you are.
down here in the south i run 25% zerex g-05/75% distilled water, no alge and i can drag them out into the garage in the winter without thinking about it, up there in the winter you will need to run a 50/50 mix.
we all know the issues with ford cooling systems, but that's the owners fault for not changing it once in a decade.

my first loop, i forgot to order the kill coil, and ran the loop for about a month with just straight distilled, after the month, i tore it all apart, expecting to find growth, and the loop was all clean and clear.
just been running distilled and silver since then, no issues yet

I'm going to hit MC on Thursday and send Silver the Silver. Not a big deal. It's cheap enough and the envelope will weigh more than the coil.

Thanks guys!
I'll get a pic of the temps for you guys tomorrow but, 1 hour into Prime small FFT and zero leaks, temps are 32C package, 44C socket!

More than 20C cooler
I'm not sure if I should add gear clamps to the pipes I heated up to fit on the fittings. Thing with PEX is, it has memory. So it shrinks after I heated it up around the fittings, then it shrunk real tight around 'em. Not really sure If clamps would help at all....

Main concern is if I add the clamps, it might mis-shape the PEX and cause a leak.

Anyways, I'll move the rig back into my room and continue folding until the coil arrives from Blaylock.
Still can't believe the pet store didn't sell copper sulfate.....

EDIT:
Pic of the temps running Small FFT (1 hour run)