REQ: Info On Athlon XP 2100+ (Palimino) Multiplier unlocking.

REQ: Info On Athlon XP 2100+ (Tbred) Multiplier unlocking.

Well unfortunately for some reason I can not stabley run anything over 138 FSB with PC2100 RAM on my current board. So that sets me only at about a 100mhz overclock.

I would like to raise up the multiplier to say... 20.5? Usually I use this wonderful utility

http://www.ocinside.de/index_e.html?/html/workshop/socketa/xp_painting.html

I heard that they changed around the L10 bridge on the 2100 Palimino so now I don't know which to Open : Close! Can anyone lead me closer to my goal??


Oh and what would be the needed voltage to run this at safely. I believe the end overclock will be 2.8ghz

BrantUnger said:

Well unfortunately for some reason I can not stabley run anything over 138 FSB with PC2100 RAM on my current board. So that sets me only at about a 100mhz overclock.

I would like to raise up the multiplier to say... 20.5? Usually I use this wonderful utility

http://www.ocinside.de/index_e.html?/html/workshop/socketa/xp_painting.html

I heard that they changed around the L10 bridge on the 2100 Palimino so now I don't know which to Open : Close! Can anyone lead me closer to my goal??

Click to expand...

Don't touch your L10s. They are already set HI which is where you need that 5th bit if you want to set higher than the 210's default 13X. The L10s are toggled only when it's desired to go from low range to high range or vice versa. you want to go "higher" from high range 13X...right??

But setting Miltipliers in the high range has been very iffy/mobo specific...we assume you've already tried 13.5X, 14X from bios. If you haven't, try it...if no booot then http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Workarounds article and read about all the various problems users get into trying to get 13X thru 14X.

And don't forget, Palomino's have open L1 bridges which must be closed first before mobo/bios can change signals...did you close yours??

On the other hand you sound like you want to "hard mod" the L3/L4/L10 bridges to just "one" high"Multiplier. If so then use the oc-inside link and mimic the settings that show up on the screen for setting you select...then hope it's not too high...system boots. In this case you don't have to close the L1s.
John C.

I actually got to looking at the bridges, there is no visible L10 bridge, nor L4. It's a green circuit, and it's not ceramic anymore. The bridges seem like they are embedded in the chip or something you dont even see the conductive bridges.

As for the BIOS; I wish I could change the mulitiplier in BIOS, but I cant. I have an ECS K7S5A, so I can't just unlock the L1 bridges and change that in BIOS. I have to do everything the hard way.

So there is no testing for stability either it seems. Maybe I should be investing in another motherboard?

BrantUnger said:

I actually got to looking at the bridges, there is no visible L10 bridge, nor L4. It's a green circuit, and it's not ceramic anymore. The bridges seem like they are embedded in the chip or something you dont even see the conductive bridges.

As for the BIOS; I wish I could change the mulitiplier in BIOS, but I cant. I have an ECS K7S5A, so I can't just unlock the L1 bridges and change that in BIOS. I have to do everything the hard way.

So there is no testing for stability either it seems. Maybe I should be investing in another motherboard?

Click to expand...

If there are no L10s and no L4s and only (5) L3s then you have a Tbred, not a Palomino...why did you say Palomino in the 1st place?? But OTOH, did AMD build a Tbred 2100??
Anyway Tbreds have L1s closed, but that doesn't do you any good with the K7S5A.
But if Tbred the L1s are closed, and if you're handy with a soldering iron then build a 5 switched or jumpered pcb which you then solder wires to back side of sockets. Then set Multipliers with the switches/jumpers. Go to site above and link to Tbred article, circuit diagram and socket locations are about 2/3 down the page. Good pics of socket location grid at end of Workarounds article. Just have to solder 6 wires to 6 sockets, use case ground for ground.
John C.

Yup it must be a Tbred - I would recommend you change your mobo to a KT400 or NF2 (abits have access to all multis).
BTW why did you think it was a Palomino?

Brant, did it have all the stepping info on the chip itself, or on a black tag on the pcb? If it's on the chip, it's a Ppally, if on a black tag on the pcb, it's a t-bred.

Yes, L1s are closed. I have no idea why I thought I had a palomino! I thought they told me that's what it was.

Well that's good, Tbreds are better right???

Im pretty new to Overclocking so I am not sure what you mean by 'stepping information'. But on the CPU itself there is a black tag with some info I remember something about axDa? and then 2100 something thing, then some more info below it.


Edit: Oh I also remember seeing something about 304MPHW

that was like...the last line That's all I can remember without actually looking.

If I get the KT400 will I be able to change multipliers up to 20.5, and Vcore in the BIOS?

New Board

Ok I looked into it;


If I were to get a new motherboard I believe the best choice would be ABIT's KD7, via KT400 chipset.

1: Cheap
2: Nice *** BIOS features
3: Nice chipset cooler


Currently I have PC2100 Ram, and for some reason with the ECS K7S5A I can not get above 138 FSB, and keep things stable. Is this because of RAM or because of the Mobo'? Am I going to be able to run a high multiplier and keep things stable?

Thanks for the help

from what u've described, it looks like a TbredB, AIUHB week 4 year '03, it supposed to be an awesome overclocker on good motherboard and RAM. what are your temps? what's the cooler u'r running on the chip, it might be the temps that are limiting your OC. also Athlons are power hogs, a good power supply is a must have, so what's the PSU that you have? (Brand/model)

Ok, well I'm overclocked to 1.8ghz, from 1.73 So not much of an overclock at the moment. My processor is running at 44C I'm using Volcano 7+, Silver 3 compound, my powersupply...I am unsure of brand because it came with the case, but 350W.
Chipset is running at 25C.

Its very possible that power supply or the motherboard are to blame. well basically with a new mobo you will be able to see if you will need a new PSU or not. And I think that abit boards support all multi range, so the answer to your x20 multi question is Yes. I don't think that 133 x 20 will be possible without major voltage and cooling but something a bit more modest, like in the range of 2400Mhz could be possible.