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Heatsink behind core (on video card)...?

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mirko_3

Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2002
Location
Italy
I've seen people do it, there's even one in the video card mod gallery. But why doesn't the heatsink short anything?? Would be dangerous to put a small heatsink there? My video card sorely needs it...:)
And I suppose that the artic silver whatever-it's-called (the one that also glues stuff, I have it lying around somewhere) would work well without shorting anything...?
 
heavy666 said:

I think it is conductive only for cooper heatsinks.

..And how does it accomplish this feat? ;)

True, it wont conduct electricity through a aluminum heatsink, but it can still conduct electricity through itsself to other exposed parts of card its touching.. which there are quite a few of on the back of the GPU these days.

-RuKK
 
I'd used one before myself. I used a type of clear/amber electrical tape called furon that is made to pass heat through without passing electricity. I covered the bottom of the heatsink with the tape, then used white thermal paste to set it in place (I don't lan, the box doesn't move). I use type 44 thermal paste on all my stuff, and only keep AA adhesive.
It got warm enough still to need a fan on it, so it must've been working.

If you don't have furon tape (most don't, it's $40 per roll) you could give your heatsink a double coat of polyeurethane spray to coat it electrically. As long as your particular video card doesn't have any sharp protrusions to scrape through the coating. Coatings don't have much effect on thermal transfer except when dealing with a mighty cpu heat.
Anodizing works as an insulator also, but don't use it if it's scratched, as that spot will conduct.

Heck, scotch tape might work if it'll survive the temperatures that the heatsink will reach.

And again, DO NOT try this if your card can scratch the coating, your card will die! This is at your own risk, as I cannot control how good of a job you do.

Frag tape is a good option too, as it shouldn't pass electricity either.
 
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I have done this on 2 cards and it has worked very well. Get some artic alumina thermal adhesive and mix a good amount. Put it right on the back side of the card in a circle shape slightly larger then a penny. You want it to flatten out as much as possible and you want it slightly higher then all the close by components. The reason for doing this is so you have a higher stable base then the components so you won't ruin anything. Get 10 all copper penny sized slugs from here http://www.pressedpenny.com/slugs.html, any extra can be used on other components just bend them in half. After the artic alumina adhesive dries, mix another small batch of it and attach the copper slug to the back of the card on the mound of the artic alumina that has dried. After that has dried mix another small batch of Artic Alumina adhesive and attach a heatsink to the copper slug. The copper slug and Artic Alumina mound they you apply first transfers the heat from directly behind the GPU to the heatsink, it also helps to raise the heatsink higher then any components on the back of the card. I did this on 2 Geforce cards and the heatsinks get hot on both so I know they are working well.
 
Also an idea,

This won't work as good as a HS on the back of the GPU.....but why not just take a fan, position it just a little bit above the GPU...and blow directly down on it. wouldn't work as well as a HS....but don't have to do a ton of work on a HS, and don't have to worry about Shortages.

But again......we are at overclockers.com Soooo.....just using fans only isn't in our language.....heh. we must go for more extreme, and cooler components......no matter the cost.

But do as you will, just be careful about shorting the Video card.......or you will have lost a bit of money.
 
I'm running 24/7 at 2020mhz (168x12), but as soon as I get my sk6+ I hope to get up around 2.3-2.4.

The v6cu+ is a decent hsf, but its just not capable of dealing with this baby if I give it more voltage than stock (1.6, as its a DUT3C 0308), which is what this OC is on. This ram isent quite stable at 180 fsb, but that could be the psu dipping too low.

I'm desperately in need of a decent 500+W psu and some Corsair PC3200.

-RuKK
 
RuKK said:
I'm running 24/7 at 2020mhz (168x12), but as soon as I get my sk6+ I hope to get up around 2.3-2.4.

The v6cu+ is a decent hsf, but its just not capable of dealing with this baby if I give it more voltage than stock (1.6, as its a DUT3C 0308), which is what this OC is on. This ram isent quite stable at 180 fsb, but that could be the psu dipping too low.

I'm desperately in need of a decent 500+W psu and some Corsair PC3200.

-RuKK

How high could I get using only multipliers? As my archaic harddrives limit fsb... I might be able to use the 166multiplier, to maintain the standard bus speed on all my components, while still boosting mhz.. sound reasonable?

-Frank
 
I'm not really familiar with your motherboard, but you should be able to run 166 fsb (the kt400 has a 5/2/1 divider) while keeping your agp/pci in spec if your ram will do it. Crank the multiplier up to 12.5x, and take her up .5x until you find your stable top. I wouldent give one of these puppies more than 1.75vcore with this heatsink under any conditions, and even then only if you have good ambient and really good case airflow. I suspect you will max out between 2100 and 2300mhz. I've had this proc up to 2200mhz totally stable with default vcore, but I really dont like 55C load temps.

-RuKK
 
Its a KT333a board, I believe.. so its got the same thing the KT400 does as far as the 100/133/166 bus speed setting, its a four pin setting (01 is 100, 12 is 133, 23 is 166). It divides the bus to even out upon components. 166x12=1996mhz, which would be nice. I have my case open, and a 200cfm 1.5' circular fan (noisy, but keeps case temp ambient) blowing over the entire case. My old 1900+ stayed at 45°C without the case fan running at 1736MHz or whatever I had it at (base of 1599MHz). ...I guess I've just started rambling without a point to what I'm saying..

..oh right, I was just saying, if I can get over 1600MHz (my old proc.), than I'll be happy. 750MHz doesn't cut it, especially when no matter what I do, it wont unlock.

-Frank
 
sorry if I'm a little late in replying;
the artic silver I have is artic silver alumina adesive, just checked... also, why would I need those copper slugs, couldn't I just place a layer on the video card, let it dry, then attach the heatsink with some more as alumina? Other than that, I really like that idea, and think I'll do it as soon as you clear this up for me...
As for placing a fan - I tried, it's not enough really; temps are getting higher these months, and the card (which would do 380 on core stable this winter) sometimes freezes up on stock!! If I place a fan, I can feel the hot air it pumps out of my case, but it still locks up some... :(
 
Well, I havent actualy done this yet, but I would think that aslong as you build up a decent layer of arctic alumina, and aslong as your heatsink in aluminum, you should be fine without the slugs. Post some pics after you do it man.

-RuKK
 
no digital camera... I really do need one, but have a couple things on my list before I buy it (iPod comes to mind... *drool*), so sorry bout that. There's one in the video card mod gallery anyways. Now, All I have to do is find a heatsink, or cut up and old one... hmmmm.... I'll let you know if I do it soon :)
 
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