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SPST switch help (case leds driving me crazy)

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Albaholic

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2001
Someone please help, power and activity leds on my case are BRIGHT, I want to be able to sleep at night. I bought a SPST toggle switch from radioshack

Rated 3A at 123VAC, 1.5a at 250VAC

Could someone help me figure out how to wire it so i can turn of the leds.
 
If you got a SPST switch, you can only use it to turn off 1 LED. Simply snip one lead to the LED, and solder the leads to either side of the switch.
 
You would have to keep the signals seperate. With a standard SPST switch you can't.

SWITCH.jpg


What kind of switch is this?
 
Albaholic said:
Someone please help, power and activity leds on my case are BRIGHT, I want to be able to sleep at night. I bought a SPST toggle switch from radioshack

Rated 3A at 123VAC, 1.5a at 250VAC

Could someone help me figure out how to wire it so i can turn of the leds.
Cool thanx, lemme get this straight, there are two prong thingys on my spst switch, do i take the two wires and put them on a separate prong? or do they both only need to go on one of them? does it matter which prong i solder it to? I might get a spdt switch, but as of right now, only the blue power led is driving me nuts (looks cool, but annoying when trying to sleep) I normally threw a pair of jeans over it.
 
yea, normally you could just use your current switch, and wire them all to a common ground and cut that on and off. However, these are HDD and power LED's, and they have their own grounds...
 
spdt.gif


You could also get a on-off-on SPDT switch and have three settings: no LEDs, dim LEDs, and full brightness LEDs.

Connect the two outside poles of the switch to one side of the LED, but put a resistor in one of those wires. Connect the other LED wire and the center pole of the switch to the motherboard plug.
 
You may have to experiment if you dont know what kinda milliamps those leds are rated at. Going out on a limb here, but i believe most case leds are 3v/25ma. Experiment a bit, i'd start with a 50 ohm resistor.
 
For reference, the switch in Palee's second post is actually a DPST switch, which is the easiest way to do what you describe. DP switches operate two separate circuits at the same time, which is what your first post describes. You would hook up one LED to one side, and the other LED to the other side, and flipping the switch would open or close both circuits at the same time. The inset in his pic is a pretty good of visualizing what I'm talking about.

Also, as far as your resistor goes, if you use an SPDT switch as Crazy Jayhawk described, you have the same problem as before: keeping the signal separate. I don't know how much you knwo about circuits, so I'll try to keep this as simple as possible (feel free to ignore what you already know). In order for an LED (or anything electronic, really) to work, it requires two things: power and ground. The power runs through the LED, turning it on, on its way to the ground. If there's no ground, the LED doesn't work. If there's no power, the LED doesn't work. I'm not entirely certain how mobo HDD activity headers work. It could go any of three ways: 1. the header constantly provides power, and only provides ground during activity. 2. The header constantly provides ground, and only provides power during activity. 3. The header provides nothing, but on activity provides power and ground. The last is the least likely, and I believe the first to be the case, but I don't actually know, and it may vary from board to board. AAR, if you connected two LEDs to a SP switch, you'd disable the ability of the header to function properly in two of the three ways. Since your power LED is always on, connecting both to the same power would mean that your HDD LED would always have power--and therefore, in scenario 2, your HDD LED would always be on. If you conected both to the same ground, then in scenario 1 the HDD LED would always be on. That's why the DPST or DPDT switch is better--each LED remains separate from the other, so both work as appropriate. You could still do the regular/dim/off thing that Crazy Jayhawk described by using a DPDT switch, or you could just go on/off with a DPST switch. Make sense?

Almost forgot--as far as what resistor to use goes, here's a resistor calculator.

Last thing--just noticed the discussion of "prong thingys." On an SPST switch, if the switch is on, then the two prongs are connected. If it's off, they're not. Connecting both wires to one prong would sort of defeat the purpose, because in effect, you'd have soldered the wires together. Put one wire on each prong, doesn't matter which goes where for and SPST, but like I said an SPST can only control one LED.

I'd be glad to tell you how to wire the DPDT or DPST if you decide to go that route, and I'd also be glad to shut up if nobody cares. :D

Edit: Added "prong thingy" explanation
 
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Crazy Jayhawk said:
spdt.gif


You could also get a on-off-on SPDT switch and have three settings: no LEDs, dim LEDs, and full brightness LEDs.

Connect the two outside poles of the switch to one side of the LED, but put a resistor in one of those wires. Connect the other LED wire and the center pole of the switch to the motherboard plug.


Dude...what did you use to make that???:eek:
 
KLowD9x said:
Dude...what did you use to make that???:eek:
Good ol' MSPaint. :beer:

If you use a DPDT switch and wire the two sides as shown in my diagram, you can control two LEDs and have a dim setting for both. There are no problems with signal separation in that arrangement.
 
Thanks for all your help guys, I'll think about all this stuff for a while before i do it because i wanted to add EL wire and I want to beable to control everything with as few switches as possible
 
In that case, it might be worth mentioning that there are switches more complex than DP that might be of use to you. The number of poles in a switch means the number of circuits it can independently control. I know 3P switches are pretty easy to come by, and I know that bigger ones exist. So if you could find like a 5PST switch, you could have one switch turn on and off your HDD LED, your power LED, your EL wire, a CCFL, and one of those monkeys that bangs the cymbals together. Why you'd want one in your case, I don't know. But each device could have its own power and ground, such that there's no signal problems. Again, make that switch DT and you could have Crazy Jayhawk's on/off/dim arrangement going, too.
 
You could always get some DIP switches and use those. Mount them out of the way and flip it when you want to..

One block of them is like

----------
| * * * * |
----------

that big..


Edit: This is "larger than life". The full size version is not much bigger than what I said above..

275-1301.jpg
 
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