My Custom Water Block Design

BlueBall · May 14, 2004

I would like some comment regarding my newest prototype.

The temps were not as good as I had hoped. My SLK-800 was only 5-10C warmer with a Panaflow HIGH

BlueBall · May 14, 2004

noxipoo · May 14, 2004

Looks pretty cool, i like the AMD logo. Have you thought about getting rid of the elbows and doing a slightly less bend just bigger? and Y connectors instead of T

Ri0 · May 14, 2004

Wow that is a littel block, can see the chip below it. What do you do to keep it from crushing the core? Looks pretty crazy.

BlueBall · May 14, 2004

I've used tiny pads from the SLK-800 around the core but I found it was VERY easy to apply uneven pressure unintensionally.

Y's would have been better but I couldn't find them at the time ... I still need to lengthen the flex line in order to pleven that slight kink and side pressure on the block.

I never really considered 'crushing' the core as a factor. Now that you mention it. There IS that open space below inside the socket ... hmmm.
No problems so far .... I've got my XP2500 at (11x222) 2.1V 43C LOAD 36C IDLE.
Corsair 2x256 TwinLL @ 2.5-3-3-7
120GBx2 SATA RAID

I am currently deciding whether or not to do the L11 and L5 bridges.
I think these are the ones that allow multiplier and FSB change during P-States. That will allow me to use a windows based Overclocking utility.

slater3333uk · May 14, 2004

Whats it like internaly?

JFettig · May 14, 2004

thats a really cool block man, yeah, im intrested in seeing the internals too

or is it just a cross drilled block?

Jon

thorilan · May 14, 2004

pretty cool.
i would also be interested in the inner workings .
and do you have plans for a revised version?

zip22 · May 14, 2004

what kind of hoses are those?

BlueBall · May 14, 2004

This is my second prototype and I am currently making a third.

Yes, this one is cross-drilled ....

thorilan · May 14, 2004

though the design is pretty simple it does provide a great way to create turbulance.
have you thought about a pyramid shaped version in which you can vector the liquid to make a slightly better use of the bottom plate surface area?

BlueBall · May 14, 2004

In my next design I plan on having a single, central, top feed with the same four outlets. This will carry the heat AWAY from the core.

The new design is also a larger copper block.

I am currently undecided on how to implement a central spring system to guarantee even pressure. This is a problem many designs have.

Those water lines are "flex" lines typically found under your sinks. I use them frequently and they NEVER leak. There is a rubber tube inside the braided casing.

As you can see from my first hand drawn draft that my design changed a little during fabrication.

Note that my design is all copper .... I originally intended to use an old refigerator but having built another fidge rig I know all to well the toils of condensation. If I do go fridge again I will have to put my rig INSIDE another fridge to reduce ambient temps so I can apply even more cooling via phase change :> ...
I've got my recipricating saw ready to rip that old fridge apart! Stay tuned ...

PROkillernoodle · May 15, 2004

Those tubes and the height of that thing, plus the tiny base make it look like it puts a lot of torque on the socket. I'd watch out to make sure you dont do anything to disturb the socket when it is running.

danman81 · May 15, 2004

BlueBall said:
This is my second prototype and I am currently making a third.

Yes, this one is cross-drilled ....

surface area of water to copper is too low

Shadowcat · May 16, 2004

danman81 said:
surface area of water to copper is too low

Cross drilled blocks have a habit of working very well... and that setup looks pretty neat.

VAdept · May 16, 2004

Looks very cool. Keep up on the design sure you will find something suitable for your needs.

DuallyKickass · May 16, 2004

i thought the 4 pads had to tocuhed down for the computer to turn on, how have u got around that?

Etacovda · May 16, 2004

why the hell would that work? It doesnt matter in the slightest.

Bevman · May 16, 2004

I've got my recipricating saw ready to rip that old fridge apart!

Can't wait to see that. Keep up the research and keep the sick minds of the OC public informed.

BlueBall · May 16, 2004

I'm not sure which method of madness I am going to use.

I am deciding between ....

Re-mounting my system inside a bar fridge to reduce ambient temps while using another fridge compressor hooked upto my new block design.

OR

I may try to use the coolant/compressor for my block and also have water (non-chilled) running throught the upper portion of the newer larger block. I think the water will actually be removing the COLD from the new block .... this should keep the exterior of the block closer to ambient temps. I may see condensation at the underside of the block which worries me.

Whichever design I choose I will be using an insulating medium on the sides and bottom (minus core area)

I should do this stuff for a living :>

My Custom Water Block Design

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