Iwaki md20rlt is sucking so hard that it is colapsing my tubes.

Iwaki md20rlt is sucking so hard that it is collapsing my tubes. Here is the routing.

pump to weapon dual heatercore to storm g5 to maze 4 gpu block and back to pump. It is collapasing after the G5 but if I sqeeze the line between the g5 and the radiator the tubeing then expandes after the g5.

I am still haveing really high load temps and idle. It is either my radiator or the motherboard just is not accurate. I am on a x2 4400 and my idle is about 35c load 60C at 1.5-15.75 volts. Temps dont change at those volts.
Any Ideas?

you're putting 15.75 volts into your cpu???? or is that typo, or am i just off again...?
if it really is saying 15.75 volts, it's got to be motherboard related or something cause i'm sure 2.5 volts would fry a cpu. As for your problem, i guess you could try those cool sleeves or different tubing?

-1cem4n

1cem4n said:

you're putting 15.75 volts into your cpu???? or is that typo, or am i just off again...?
if it really is saying 15.75 volts, it's got to be motherboard related or something cause i'm sure 2.5 volts would fry a cpu. As for your problem, i guess you could try those cool sleeves or different tubing?

-1cem4n

Click to expand...

maybe 1.575V

Hey_Its_Cole said:

Iwaki md20rlt is sucking so hard that it is collapsing my tubes. Here is the routing.

pump to weapon dual heatercore to storm g5 to maze 4 gpu block and back to pump. It is collapasing after the G5 but if I sqeeze the line between the g5 and the radiator the tubeing then expandes after the g5.

I am still haveing really high load temps and idle. It is either my radiator or the motherboard just is not accurate. I am on a x2 4400 and my idle is about 35c load 60C at 1.5-15.75 volts. Temps dont change at those volts.
Any Ideas?

Click to expand...

Got pics?

Sounds like you capped off your loop with the system off. Take off the cap to your T-line/reservoir when your system is running. The tubing should expand back to normal, then cap it back up.

Your temperatures are bad (most likely) due to the fact that your pump inlet is restricted because of collapsed tubing, which is restricting your flow.

The reason why your tubing is collapsed is because your pump is pressurizing and expanding the tubing on the outlet side. When that happens the tubing on the outlet side will hold more water than tubing on the inlet side of the pump. That water came from your collapsed tubing (a perfect circle has more surface area than an ellipse.) By opening the cap to let in air, you are relieving the negative pressure on the intake side of the loop and allowing the tubing after your G5 to expand again.

Get back to us if it works.

Cheers mate.

the problem is very common when the tubing isnt as strong as the vaporization pressure drop ( aka cavitation )

the easyest way to fix this is with a res before the pump. i dont recommend ANY prebuilt resses for the particular pump you have. i recommend making it your self.

(a perfect circle has more surface area than an ellipse.)

Click to expand...

umn i think you meant more volume because an elipse has more area with less volume hence the shape of UFOs

and a pic of how you have your pump mounted and how much room in your case is left would help. i have designed numerous resses to overcome more powerful pumps over the years and i know you can make a res that will increase your performance without much dificulty

(assuming you or a friend is good with your hands and have availible tools and materials)

what tubing are you using?

thorilan said:

the problem is very common when the tubing isnt as strong as the vaporization pressure drop ( aka cavitation )

the easyest way to fix this is with a res before the pump. i dont recommend ANY prebuilt resses for the particular pump you have. i recommend making it your self.

umn i think you meant more volume because an elipse has more area with less volume hence the shape of UFOs

Click to expand...

I meant to say "a perfect circle has more surface area than an ellipse of the same circumference " which is what happens when you take a slice of regular tubing compared to collapsed tubing. A ufo is an ellipsoid, not an ellipse. 2D=Area, 3D=Volume, extend the 2D object to get a 3D object, etc. Maybe I should have said "A collapsed tube holds less water than an non collapsed tube of the same length" to make it less confusing.

Just take the cap off first, it will let the atmospheric pressure compensate for the pressure drop. I'd do that before thinking about a new res, or any res at all. If that doesn't work then probably what thorilan suggested.

1cem4n said:

you're putting 15.75 volts into your cpu???? or is that typo, or am i just off again...?
if it really is saying 15.75 volts, it's got to be motherboard related or something cause i'm sure 2.5 volts would fry a cpu. As for your problem, i guess you could try those cool sleeves or different tubing?

-1cem4n

Click to expand...

Yea typo LOL

eobard said:

Got pics?

Click to expand...

I can get some.

Sneaky said:

what tubing are you using?

Click to expand...

I am useing the silcone stuff, I can't remember the name its uv blue. No my tee line is not plugged.

thorilan said:

th less volume hence the shape of UFOs

Click to expand...

And when was the lasttime you were in or seen a UFO and no movies do not count. You could try and put a zip tie around where the tubing is colapsing.

Hey_Its_Cole said:

I am useing the silcone stuff, I can't remember the name its uv blue. No my tee line is not plugged.

Click to expand...

primoflex? Ya its pretty soft stuff, try getting a stronger peice of tubing and try replacing the section where it is colapsing.