Cutting: Lexan/Plexiglass?

jcw122 · Jan 24, 2006

Hey guys, I have this case: http://www.svc.com/amsgmonmidca.html

I want to have a friend drill a hole through the front panel, specificly a 120mm fan hole. What type of drill/saw would be most appropriate for cutting stuff like this? Are there any precautions I need to take (taping up stuff? Not sure how it works)?

I'm not sure weather the front is Lexan or Plexiglass.

I'm not sure yet what type of power tool he will be using to make the holes, will post later.

DOUBLE EDIT: The stuff needing cut is ~1/3 (not 7/8) of an inch thick

<<Spider>> · Jan 24, 2006

For cutting plexiglass (or similar), it's easiest to use a fine circular saw drill bit with a roto-zip or dremal. You can also use the corse bit also but it's harder to cut straight and you have to be careful because it'll bounce a bit if you don't hold it tight.

You may need to drill a starting hole and must keep the drill bit clean. The plexi will fuse onto the drill bit so you'll have to take it off to keep the drill sharp.

jcw122 · Jan 24, 2006

<<Spider>> said:
For cutting plexiglass (or similar), it's easiest to use a fine circular saw drill bit with a roto-zip or dremal. You can also use the corse bit also but it's harder to cut straight and you have to be careful because it'll bounce a bit if you don't hold it tight.

You may need to drill a starting hole and must keep the drill bit clean. The plexi will fuse onto the drill bit so you'll have to take it off to keep the drill sharp.

Are there any options for using a Hole Saw to cut the hole?

<<Spider>> · Jan 24, 2006

jcw122 said:
Are there any options for using a Hole Saw to cut the hole?

That may work if you are very careful. If the plexiglass is flimsy, too much pressure may break the glass. If the glass is solid, it should be fine. I'm not sure if you can find a hole saw with the size of 120mm.

I've always used the dremel or roto-zip.

Midnight Dream · Jan 24, 2006

Go slow, otherwise you will crack the glass.

jcw122 · Jan 24, 2006

Oops, forgot to add that the stuff needing cut is 7/8 of an inch thick, quite thick IMO.

Susquehannock · Jan 24, 2006

Hmmm, think you may be mistaken about the front panel being 7/8" thick.
Here a quote from the page you provided : "... 1/3" acrylic face plate."
Rather a strange measurement. In any event, one third of an inch is just under 3/8".
And yeah, the front is acrylic. Sometimes known as Plexiglas. Lexan = polycarbonate.

Remember, 120mm is the outside dimensions of the fan. The hole should be slightly smaller.
Around 115-117mm - or 4 5/8". A 4 1/2" holesaw should suffice.
Make sure your holesaw has the center bit.

When using a large holesaw use slow RPM, hold the tool square to the work, and
apply steady even pressure. Take your time and let the tool do the work.

It would be a good idea to mask everything off with tape to avoid scratches.
Since your piece is fairly thick it might be best to cut part way from one side,
then finish from the other. That will help avoid cracking when you break
through. And leaves a better edge.

Oh, did I mention to take your time & let the tool do the work? Seriously, it's
not a race. If you start to melt the plastic back off on the RPM's. A little bit
of water can help act as a coolant if you like.

P. S. - almost forgot the sticky : ** Acrylic Polycarbonate Plexiglas Lexan, what to use

vonkaar · Jan 24, 2006

7/8"
holy crap... what the hell are you doing? making a bomb shelter?

jcw122 · Jan 24, 2006

I screwed up

It is ~1/3....I knew I was gonna mess up that measurement somehow. Thanks for the correction guys.

Electron Chaser · Jan 24, 2006

I have used my 4.5 Inch hole saw to cut polycarbonate with. and it is possible to cut plexiglass as well with it. Just make you run the saw in revers and grind your way through it and use plenty of coolant I use soapy water. 2 parts water 1 part dishsoap. If you try to cut the hole running the drill clockwise it wil chip and crack the edges of the hole and may even crack the whole thing if it snags while you are cutting it.

Captain Slug · Jan 24, 2006

If you want to cut perfect circles in plastic nothing is going to be more predictable to work with than a circle cutter in a drillpress. I will allow you to cut a wide variety of hole sizes for the cost of only one attachment.

Holesaws are only workable with metals and wood. They will in some circumstances work in reverse, but I would never recommend using them.

And for detail cuts use a scrollsaw.

jcw122 · Jan 24, 2006

Captain Slug said:
If you want to cut perfect circles in plastic nothing is going to be more predictable to work with than a circle cutter in a drillpress. I will allow you to cut a wide variety of hole sizes for the cost of only one attachment.

Holesaws are only workable with metals and wood. They will in some circumstances work in reverse, but I would never recommend using them.

And for detail cuts use a scrollsaw.

You mean "practical"?

Anyway thanks for the advice Captain Slug (I'm honored for you to post in my thread, oh mighty modding god...lol jp!), but anyway I'll definately check that out, thanks.

vonkaar · Jan 24, 2006

Captain Slug said:
If you want to cut perfect circles in plastic nothing is going to be more predictable to work with than a circle cutter in a drillpress.

Practicality aside, laser cuts are much more perfect and predictable

.

Navig · Jan 25, 2006

No question a circle cutter on a drill press is a good way to go. If you don't have access to a drill press, 4 1/2in hole saw is probably your best bet, in my opinion.

Captain Slug, you wouldn't recommend a hole saw for plastic at all?

If you are really careful you can hole saw even the most pitiful of plastic 0.10in acrylic with close margins see my panel next to the i/o plate. Hi chance of cracking tho.

As always prep is very very key. Mask everything. Then clamp firmly and in several spots to a flat piece of junk board.

1/3in plastic should be just fine. My personal method is to run forward to catch the pilot until the saw makes contact. Then I run reverse for several rotations to make a groove. I think this groove helps prevent chatter a bit. Then run forward with light pressure. Stop every 1-2 minutes to let things cool and brush away plastic scrapings from the groove and the saw teeth.

navig

ps Really the only solution to non-adjustable-ility of hole saws is to only use 120mm fans.

Captain Slug · Jan 25, 2006

No, I don't like hole saws. I'd even prefer cutting the circle with a scrollsaw over using a hole saw.

Susquehannock · Jan 25, 2006

A holesaw wouldn't be my first choice for cutting window fan holes either. For that I usually employ
a carbide rotary file & die grinder (pic). But that isn't an option for many.

Kill_A._Byte · Jan 25, 2006

I wonder how one of these would do :eh?:

I almost want to go to a hardware store to get a lil plexi and test it out

Captain Slug · Jan 25, 2006

A one-hole cutter should work similarly to a circle cutter. Plastics generally don't like teeth.

four4875 · Jan 25, 2006

i might have to try makin a circle cutter like you posted captain, it looks kinda like a lathe cutting tool stuck in a thing to hold it in a circle lol. not too much to do. iut will probably take me neding to make nice holes in plastic to find the motivation to do that tho, and be able to get free time on the machines.

Navig · Jan 25, 2006

Hmm,

I guess I there aren't many options for us unfortunate folks that live in apartments without basements or garages to house decent machinery.

Cutting: Lexan/Plexiglass?

Member

Member

Member

Member

OSPF Loving Member

Member

The Mad Smelter

Member

Member

Senior Delta Fanatic

Helpful Senior Member

Member

Member

Senior Case Master

Helpful Senior Member

The Mad Smelter

Member

Helpful Senior Member

Member

Senior Case Master

Similar threads