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DFI SLI-DR diagnostic LED codes?

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PerlAddict

Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2004
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
I've searched and searched and can't seem to find a list of the diagnostic led codes and what they mean (aside from just the basic on/off list included in the manual online ... power, cpu, ram, vga ...).

My problem is likely my CPU, as I knicked a transistor the last time I took my computer apart and decided to take off the IHS. However, that was four months ago and I just got back around to sticking everything back together.

LED's 2 though 4 (with LED 1 starting on the righthand side) stay lit. Led 1 blinks twice, pauses, blinks twice, pauses ... that happens about four times and then the system shuts off. No beeps. If I try and power back on immediately, it barely makes it through one blinking sequence before it powers back off again.

Anybody have a list of all the diagnostic code meanings, or happen to know what two blinks on the first LED mean?
 
I figured it probably did. I'd still like to know exactly what the different codes mean, though. Does anyone have a chart/list/table/etc of all the different diagnostic LED codes?
 
I figured as much. I spent at least an hour on Google last night looking, to no avail. Very lame that they would put in more specific lighting/blinking sequences, but not tell you what they mean.

Guess I'll just have to see what kind of super-cheap S939 chip I can scrounge up to test on it in the meantime.
 
i found this

Diagnostic LEDs.
4 LEDs on = Power applied

3 LEDs on = CPU has been detected OK
2 LEDs on = RAM has been detected OK
1 LED. on = VGA has been detected OK
0 LEDs on = System has booted to the Operating System.
 
Thanks. Unfortunately, that's all it says in the manual, too. I can't find anywhere what it means when 3 leds are on, and the fourth led blinks twice, pauses, blinks twice, pauses, etc.

And of course, DFI-Street is no more. *sigh*
 
So get this - I took off the waterblock to see what happens when I try to boot up without a CPU and if the system would just stay on with all four LED's lit ... and I suddenly realize that the bottom of my waterblock is clean.

No smudge. No grey thermal paste. Nothing.

So I take out the little yellow tray (which I had previously sanded down after removing the IHS from the chip, and could have SWORN was making contact with the core at that point), screwed the block straight onto the board over the chip (which I painted with conductive paint on the transistors that I broke, by the way, thinking it was worth a last ditch effort at the time), and turned it on.

The first LED blinked a couple of times, then BOOM, it goes off, the third light goes off, and the second light goes off.

The CPU is still good! Do you know WHY the CPU is still good? Probably because Newegg just delivered the new Opty 165 today that I ordered Tuesday for $168.

So now my unlidded CPU apparently works (showing as 33C in the BIOS), and I have a brand new Opty 165 that I likely don't need. I'll do some testing over the weekend just to be sure this old chip is still good, but if it is, I guess I'm gonna have to send this one to the classifieds, because Newegg has a restocking fee of 15%. =( Plus I'd rather keep my CCBBE 0610 DPMW if all's well with it.
 
Well, it just keeps getting better ... my temps on my previous stable overclock dropped by 9 degrees celcius with the chip I had given up on as dead, and Newegg agreed to waive the restocking fee even though I had cut the seal on the new Opteron's box. Talk about your lucky breaks!
 
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