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1155 Air cooler

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Thermalright Silver Arrow, performs very similar to the NH D-14.
comes with beastly 140mm fans which should do the job.
a 38mm thickness fan can also be used between the 2 heatsinks if you want to use
something like an Scythe Ultra Kaze with it as well. :thup:
 
The same that are good for other sockets as most fit 1155 anyway? :p

Budget - Hyper 212+

Top end - NH D-14
 
I had a 1155 true black and the screw on the left side did not fit it was on top of the vrm choke.

I ordered the Hyper 212+
 
Hyper is $30 shipped from the egg right now. If you dont want to spend $30 for a pretty good air cooler, then just use the stock IMO. The 212+ wont support higher voltage overclocks but would easily get you to 4 - 4.5ghz without an issue. If you arent looking to go that high, Id just use the stock cooler. You could probably do 4ghz w/ stock cooler honestly.
 
He bought OEM, doesn't have a stock cooler.

Just get the Hyper212+, it'll take you to 4.5 at the least. If you don't want to run it that high, then it runs cooler and it's all good. It's by far the best budget cooler out there.
 
I got mine to fit in a Thermaltake V4 case which is quite small. Ill have to check the dimensions.

EDIT: Looks like your case is .45" wider than the V4. So unless there is a ton of extra space behind the mobo the Hyper 212 should fit fine.
 
i was originaly going to go with the Hyper 212+, however if your budget is ~$80 you could go the Mux (i have one in push pull and was verry easy to put together).

depends on what mb you will be putting it in?
 
Apparently the silver arrow does provided better cooling by 1 C ;)

Thought testing may show that from one site it may not be true.

Frosty tech does a pretty good job of making it scientific but. All variables must be considered.

In their testing the Silver arrow scored worse than the D14.

There are a few variables that must become constants to truly see what HSF is better.

Ambient temperature, air density, humidity, thermal paste application (fabricated pads or some thin compound are best for consistency) and the air circulation cycle.

Because temperature and humidity play a direct role in air density if they are not held to the same level the tests can be off by a couple of degrees.

So when looking at all of those tests out there you should pick as many sites as you can find with the information and average all of them or you could simply look at a 2 degree range and pick the quietest and smallest of them.
 
Archer, there are some things that FrostyTech does that I don't consider good testing technique. First, they are testing with a synthetic heat load that doesn't really represent a modern processor all that well, IMO. Second, the max load they put on the heatsinks is 150 watts, which isn't crap compared to what kind of heatload modern high end overclocked processors put on a heatsink. And last of all they don't test in a working system inside a case, which completely ignores any flow rate variables a heatsink might encounter inside a case like 99% of the people would have their system mounted inside.

That is why I test inside a case, with a real system and why I have my test system overclocked enough to have a 200+ watt heat load applied to the heatsinks during testing.
 
Archer, there are some things that FrostyTech does that I don't consider good testing technique. First, they are testing with a synthetic heat load that doesn't really represent a modern processor all that well, IMO. Second, the max load they put on the heatsinks is 150 watts, which isn't crap compared to what kind of heatload modern high end overclocked processors put on a heatsink. And last of all they don't test in a working system inside a case, which completely ignores any flow rate variables a heatsink might encounter inside a case like 99% of the people would have their system mounted inside.

That is why I test inside a case, with a real system and why I have my test system overclocked enough to have a 200+ watt heat load applied to the heatsinks during testing.

I said they do a pretty good job of making it scientific and then I said but.

Testing outside of the case allows each HSF to stand or fall unhampered but I still agree and that is why I said look at all the numbers you can find.

I can examine two heat sinks in a head to head and control almost all variables and tell you beyond a doubt which is the better HSF design and which is better at dissipating heat. I can isolate flaws in design and manufacturing. I can not tell you how it will behave in a closed environment only a controlled environment.

What this misses is the flow restrictions and ambient heat in the case and how each would deal with that heat.

When I test it is to remove those variables that might have an effect on the HSF.

With video cards though I am a 100% in a case type of guy.

I am not knocking the in the case method and I am not a HSF testing type of person. Discounting controlled testing that attempts to eliminate variables is also just as bad as not considering the in case testing that can isolate how the fan and HSF design behave in a closed environment.

I think reading a variety of reviews is the best solution.

EDIT: I will say this though. The most important factor in choosing an HSF is not the HSF it is the case air flow. I can cool a CPU better (normal usage and gaming not stressing) with a stock HSF in a case that stays close to ambient than I can with the abdolute best HSF in a crappy enclosure with crappy ventilation.
 
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