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12700k upgrade, worth it?

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TickleMyElmo

Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2011
Location
Missouri
Hi fellas. I have 2 questions actually. 1. Is getting a 12700k to replace a 7700k for pure gaming worth it, or should I wait. 2. If I was to get the 12700k would I need a new bracket for my Corsair 150 rgb?
 
What's your CPU load now? And in what games?

I had a 6700k and was clipping 100% in CP2077 while watching a twitch stream on the second monitor. Was getting pretty heavy FPS dips at certain points, one of the reasons I decided to upgrade. Since you're also rocking a 2080 I'm guessing you'd get close-ish in certain games. But again, it depends.

And yes, most def yes on the bracket. I used the 13xx/115x bracket for my X73 before getting the s1700 bracket, and it kinda sorta worked if I used a little elbow grease, but actually saw a noticeable CPU temp improvement after the swap so it's worth going with it from the start.
 
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That depends...

From a core/thread count perspective, I'd say yes. 4c/8t while still fine, does show its age in some titles. That and the IPC difference between that several-year-old CPU is significant. You can look up some reviews, including ours, that compare against a couple of CPUs so you can see (or at least extrapolate) the difference.

That said, if you play at 4K, the difference isn't going to be as much as say 1080p (with 1440 in the middle). But yeah, that's a worthwhile upgrade IMO.
 
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Thanks guys. The 7700k can hit 100% in most games, especially since I like to crank the graphics. But on average it's around 75%. I play @ 1440p 165Hz. Been waiting to get a 3080 FOREVER but we all know how that's going.
 
Yeah that sounds about right. I'm at 1440p, 144hz.

It's up to you if it's "worth it". For me I noticed an overall modest improvement in what'd you expect - games run smoother (probably the biggest impact), things load *marginally* faster, etc.
 
I went from a 6500k to an 11700k and can see a big difference in loading speed and fps. I would say go for it. Also unless you have a newer SSD I would look into that so you can take advantage of the better speeds.
 
I think I'm going to do it. Now, for the mobo. I've narrowed it down to three. 1. Asus Prime Z690 - A. 2. Asus Tuff Gaming, and 3. MSI Tomahawk. I'm not so worried about ddr5 right now but if the price is right, why not?
 
I'd go with the Tomahawk but I'm massively biased against Asus. (And pro MSI)

If you're local to a Microcenter go through them, they actually have a fairly decent deal on the 12700k pretty regularly. It's where I got mine (y)
 
Luckily I'm 30 min. from one. I'll have a chat with the guys there and see what they think as well. I have never heard anything about the tomahawk boards, so yeah.
 
Since you can go to MC, look at their Powerspec pre-builts. You might find one with the 12700k, Asus Tuf mobo and a 3080.
 
I'll have a chat with the guys there and see what they think as well.
Do that.. but be careful. Like anyplace, there are those that know and those that don't, lol.
 
Newegg has the 12700K for $364 right now.

I would look at the Strix-E over either of those Asus choices. The Prime is lower tier and the TUF isn't what they used to be. They are more lower-mid tier boards since the release of the Strix line. I'm kind of an Asus loyalist and I've never used the Tomahawk so can't speak to that though.
 
Never prebuild my friend.
I only bring that up because it is one of the few ways to get a RTX 3080 that isn't insanely overpriced.
I had the same feeling about pre-builts until I found myself with a brand-new system, but still running a GTX 970. At least your RTX 2080 is only one generation old & isn't the minimum recommended spec for the game you built/upgraded the system around. That was me with the 970 & just released MS Flight Sim 2020. I was extremely lucky to get an RX 6800XT at only 35% over MSRP.
 
I think I'm going to do it. Now, for the mobo. I've narrowed it down to three. 1. Asus Prime Z690 - A. 2. Asus Tuff Gaming, and 3. MSI Tomahawk. I'm not so worried about ddr5 right now but if the price is right, why not?
The memory you have now should work fine in Gear1 and IMO unless you get DDR5 in the 6000 MHz plus range it's not going to make a difference in gaming. There are some applications that can really take advantage of the increased bandwidth but they are few and gaming isn't one of them. Taking a look at a 2 x16 GB set (16 GB sticks are minimum in DDR5) in the 6000 MHz range at newegg is app. $450+. It's a big chunk of change for very little gain at this time.
 
The memory you have now should work fine in Gear1 and IMO unless you get DDR5 in the 6000 MHz plus range it's not going to make a difference in gaming. There are some applications that can really take advantage of the increased bandwidth but they are few and gaming isn't one of them. Taking a look at a 2 x16 GB set (16 GB sticks are minimum in DDR5) in the 6000 MHz range at newegg is app. $450+. It's a big chunk of change for very little gain at this time.
Thanks
 
So I bought the 12700k and the MSI MAG Tomahawk. But now I have to wait for the Corsair cooler screws for the 1700 socket. Seems like it's taking forever. Sittin here drooling over this new hardware and can't even use it! lol
 
ASUS mobos have 115x holes so can install an older cooler. On the other hand, MSI is probably a better mobo so hopefully, it will be worth waiting.
 
For what it's worth I'm happy with the 12700k and tomahawk. My ram wasn't on the compatible list but worked just fine and the cpu seems to oc well with the limit being heat in my situation. The m.2 heatsink is also effective. A lot of reviews for the western digital SN850 nvme drive I have complain about 70+ degrees temps but I haven't seen it go past the low 30's in hwmonitor during crystal disk mark. Only had 2 issues with the tomahawk. I think something got lost in translation because the way they word the instructions it sounds like they're telling you not to use the mobo standoffs in your case where they're actually supposed to go when they're actually trying to say not to use any standoffs except the ones directly under the standoff holes which is common sense and automatically done by pretty much everyone as far as I know. The other thing was I couldn't get the drivers to install but that was my fault. My windows 10 disk was a couple years old and didn't have some updates needed to for drivers to take root. Just use a fresh windows download and make sure you have internet access during install if using windows 11 and remember the mobo drivers are on the usb stick that comes with the tomahawk.
 
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