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2nd water cooling attempt, immediately leaked. Questions.

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Zellio

Registered
Joined
Sep 25, 2018
Okay, this is my 2nd water cooling build (And yes I still haven't finished the first...), and it immediately leaked. It's okay though as I'm running only the reservoir and it rgb lights... It's ironic considering my first build was a frankenstein (And did not leak) and this was as straight to the point as I could get...

After tightening up the pipes I believe the leaks have stopped. So i have some questions:

1. How long do I wait before running the system?
2. I had to tighten some pipes very tightly. Is this a bad sign? Should I redo some stuff?
3. Some of the pipes have bubbles. Will that go away eventually?
4. Should I run another test?
5. How long should I test?

Here are pics. It's a micro atx case with micro atx threadripper board and a 1920x. It's going to have a garbage gpu as this will be a general server machine.

IMG_1173.jpg

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Okay, this is my 2nd water cooling build (And yes I still haven't finished the first...), and it immediately leaked. It's okay though as I'm running only the reservoir and it rgb lights... It's ironic considering my first build was a frankenstein (And did not leak) and this was as straight to the point as I could get...

After tightening up the pipes I believe the leaks have stopped. So i have some questions:

1. How long do I wait before running the system?
2. I had to tighten some pipes very tightly. Is this a bad sign? Should I redo some stuff?
3. Some of the pipes have bubbles. Will that go away eventually?
4. Should I run another test?
5. How long should I test?

#1 I usually run at least 5 hours with the pump on the highest setting if it is a variable speed pump.
#2 In most every situation finger tight is never quite enough I usually go finger tight, plus an additional 1/4 turn, using a heavy pair of needle nose pliers with tape applied to the ends so as not to mar the knurling.
#3 Eventually yes they'll go away.
#4 Test until you are confident you have no leaks there is no exact amount of time, a very small leak may take longer to find, but heavy leaks will be quite obvious very fast.
#5 Already answered that one.
 
I think #1 was asking how long after he spilled water on his system should he wait to run it???? If that is so, wait until its dry. :p

Being serious, we dont know where it spilled or anything so it's tough to say. But yeah, be sure its dry is the only requirement.

Where did it leak on the component(s)?
 
I think #1 was asking how long after he spilled water on his system should he wait to run it???? If that is so, wait until its dry. :p

Being serious, we dont know where it spilled or anything so it's tough to say. But yeah, be sure its dry is the only requirement.

Where did it leak on the component(s)?

Good catch, I didn't even think of that, my bad!

Serious My Bad!

He could use a house type fan on high for a few hours blowing air inside the case to force dry, or if water leaked into any open slots or sockets use, CRC QD Electronic Cleaner, it dries water instantly, and also removes any additive crud, obtainable from any auto parts store.

Love the stuff as it also cleans off old TIM very well too.

even Walley World carries it.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103...MI7q6A7e3b3gIVdB-tBh15SwzfEAQYASABEgLWHvD_BwE
 
i hate to say it but that long run going from the rad to cpu looks like a leak waiting to happen with that 90x90 pulling on it. thats not something i would feel comfortable hanging over $1000 worth of gear. tbh i would rerun your tubing and eliminate as much excess tubing as possible. it looks like your stuck concerning the 90 on top of your res tho. unless you replace the res cylinder with something shorter. maybe look at an ek or bp rotary 90 on the res. the ek is 28mm tall installed if that helps. the thermaltake 90 lists as- Dimension 42 x 28.3 x 22 (mm) im assuming the 42mm is the height. so the ek would probably get you just below the case door.
 
i hate to say it but that long run going from the rad to cpu looks like a leak waiting to happen with that 90x90 pulling on it. thats not something i would feel comfortable hanging over $1000 worth of gear. tbh i would rerun your tubing and eliminate as much excess tubing as possible. it looks like your stuck concerning the 90 on top of your res tho. unless you replace the res cylinder with something shorter. maybe look at an ek or bp rotary 90 on the res. the ek is 28mm tall installed if that helps. the thermaltake 90 lists as- Dimension 42 x 28.3 x 22 (mm) im assuming the 42mm is the height. so the ek would probably get you just below the case door.

Are you sure? Both connections to it feel as tight as possible. I could redo it without the 90 but it would be difficult
 
if you could go from the rad with a slight bend over to the cpu then straight down to the cpu? you could still use the 90/90 but the strain would be transferred down to the cpu fitting rather than hanging above it. ill try to find a pic of what im saying.

edit- basically if you could eliminate the loop around to the cpu. possibly using a 45 degree fitting and sloping the rad to cpu line into it? even if you have to make a bend in the cpu to res line to get it out of the way. my worry is that over time that 90/90 will droop and eventually leak.
 
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if you could go from the rad with a slight bend over to the cpu then straight down to the cpu? you could still use the 90/90 but the strain would be transferred down to the cpu fitting rather than hanging above it. ill try to find a pic of what im saying.

edit- basically if you could eliminate the loop around to the cpu. possibly using a 45 degree fitting and sloping the rad to cpu line into it? even if you have to make a bend in the cpu to res line to get it out of the way. my worry is that over time that 90/90 will droop and eventually leak.

I haven’t made any modifications yet as I have some poison ivy on me so I’m basically not touching much, but what if I showed you a pic from another angle, showing that the 90/90 is sitting on the ram? Would it change your mind? Or should I continue with the modification when I can?

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if you could go from the rad with a slight bend over to the cpu then straight down to the cpu? you could still use the 90/90 but the strain would be transferred down to the cpu fitting rather than hanging above it. ill try to find a pic of what im saying.

edit- basically if you could eliminate the loop around to the cpu. possibly using a 45 degree fitting and sloping the rad to cpu line into it? even if you have to make a bend in the cpu to res line to get it out of the way. my worry is that over time that 90/90 will droop and eventually leak.

Alright, so, as I said, I could get it done it one pipe and I did. I used some really tricky bends but I got it done. What do you (And anyone else) think? I got the motherboard wet again though so it's gonna be awhile before I use it (This time it was from pouring coolant and spilling it like an idiot)

How long do I wait before adding dye?

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