4pin fan header

[torin3]

I need to find a fan that will plug into this fan header (the lower 4pin one, not the 5pin higher one):



This is a fair amount smaller than the normal CPU 4pin connector. But it is larger than the 4pin connector like you find on some video cards.

Any idea what I need to look for, or where I can find a fan that will fit?

Thank you.

 

[NiHaoMike]

Assuming it is a fan connector, it looks like you'll have to do some splicing.

 

[WhitehawkEQ]

I need to find a fan that will plug into this fan header (the lower 4pin one, not the 5pin higher one):



This is a fair amount smaller than the normal CPU 4pin connector. But it is larger than the 4pin connector like you find on some video cards.

Any idea what I need to look for, or where I can find a fan that will fit?

Thank you.

What MB is that? and are those PCIe slots or MEM slots in the pic? If that is a fan connector, it's not for a normal fan.

 

[torin3]

What MB is that? and are those PCIe slots or MEM slots in the pic? If that is a fan connector, it's not for a normal fan.

It is a 2nd CPU riser board for a Dell Precision T5500.

You can see more complete pictures here:

http://www.ascendtech.us/dell-precision-t5500-2nd-processor-riser_i_rsrdell0f623fpr.aspx

The slots are for RAM (DDR3 ECC-Registered). And the fan header is for the RAM cooling fan.

I'm OK if I need to cobble something together, but I'm looking to pay less than the $90 or so it would take to buy the CPU/RAM cooler they sell for this.

Edit: I was taking a closer look an noticed the plastic bracket for the header can slide off, but the pin spacing is too narrow to use a standard 4pin fan plug, even free of bracket.

 

[torin3]

I'm going to assume it is a standard PWM fan pinout, and I'll see if I have enough case front panel single pin connectors and solder those up to a fan.

 

[NiHaoMike]

What colors went to which pins on the old fan?

 

[torin3]

What colors went to which pins on the old fan?

No old fan, the riser board was just purchased and didn't come with the heatsink fan combo.

I was going to use the pinout from here:
http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/Motherboard_(CPU)_4_Pin_Fan

I will identify the voltage pins with a multimeter before plugging in the fan.

 

[NiHaoMike]

First check for which pin is connected to ground. Then check for which pin connect to 12V. The remaining two are RPM and variable speed PWM. Just connect those two to the remaining two wires on the fan. Nothing will be damaged if the two are mixed up, it will just stay at full speed and not give a RPM reading.

 

[RnRollie]

Or try to find details on the Memory Fan ... like even a picture of it might be helpfull

 

[torin3]

Or try to find details on the Memory Fan ... like even a picture of it might be helpfull

Here.

 

[torin3]

Some better close up pictures here:

http://www.ascendtech.us/dell-precision-t5500-mem-fan-f306f_i_cfncpudellf306f.aspx

Looks like the ground and 12v wires are in the center.

Also, this is about 1/2 the price I've been seeing.

 

[m0r7if3r]

Some better close up pictures here:

http://www.ascendtech.us/dell-precision-t5500-mem-fan-f306f_i_cfncpudellf306f.aspx

Looks like the ground and 12v wires are in the center.

Also, this is about 1/2 the price I've been seeing.

Assuming that they follow the coloring convention, which is pretty a bold assumption for a manufacturer like dell. I'd say it's a good place to start, but not final. A continuity checker and a MM should get you there though (most DMMs have continuity checkers built in)...I'm going to assume you know how to do this since you mentioned it earlier, but if you don't, just post and I'll detail it for you.

 

[torin3]

Assuming that they follow the coloring convention, which is pretty a bold assumption for a manufacturer like dell. I'd say it's a good place to start, but not final. A continuity checker and a MM should get you there though (most DMMs have continuity checkers built in)...I'm going to assume you know how to do this since you mentioned it earlier, but if you don't, just post and I'll detail it for you.

Yep, I'll definitely be checking before trying to plug in a fan. I've got a DMM next to me as I type, and it does have a continuity option. And if it makes you feel better, I just recapped a board last weekend, and I repair LCD monitors for fun.

 

[m0r7if3r]

I figured you were probably set on that, I remember watching a few of your streams back in the day and seeing some of your machining gear, usually that level of mechanical competence doesn't come free of familiarity with at least basic electrical as well

On a side note, I HATE pulling caps from modern MOBOs because of how much heat the groundplane sinks off of it, so good on you!

 

[NiHaoMike]

On a side note, I HATE pulling caps from modern MOBOs because of how much heat the groundplane sinks off of it, so good on you!

A good soldering iron makes an awful lot of difference...

 

[m0r7if3r]

A good soldering iron makes an awful lot of difference...

I get the sense you don't speak from experience (I may be wrong). I've done it with Weller and Hakko irons and it didn't make it any less painful. A rework station would be great if I had access to one, but I don't and it's not worth my money with the work I'm doing at this point.

 

[NiHaoMike]

I get the sense you don't speak from experience (I may be wrong). I've done it with Weller and Hakko irons and it didn't make it any less painful. A rework station would be great if I had access to one, but I don't and it's not worth my money with the work I'm doing at this point.

I have the Hakko FX888. It's a regulated soldering station, not a plain iron. I set it to 300C for general work, bumping up to 350C for more difficult work. Going higher gives good results initially, but the tip quickly wears out at such high temperatures and then it doesn't work so well.

I put a little 63/37 on the tip before heating up the joint. Counterintuitively, adding a little solder can make it easier to desolder a joint. In the case of replacing a bad capacitor, if space allows, I rip the bad cap out (the leads always break off with no damage to the board) and then remove what remains of the leads.

 

[WhitehawkEQ]

Here is what I use:


When using this type of desoldering tool, always follow the 3 sec rule, put the tip on what your going to desolder and count to 3 then hit the triger, you can feel when the solder melts, if you wait any longer than 3 sec you will burn the PCB.

 

[torin3]

I got it to work with a small 3 wire fan. No more failed fan error.

Unfortunately, I need a different processor to finish booting.