AMD 1090T Temps

[quert]

Hello everyone,

I've been lurking here for a few weeks and just signed up today. After putting 64 bit Windows 7 on my PC i started having temp problems (was previously running 32 bit on same rig).

Specs:

Asus M5A97 board
AMD Phenom II Black edition (1090T)
8 gigs of RAM
EVGA GTS 450 GPU

I started noticing i was having a problem just by my fan noise. Im running the stock cooler on the CPU, im not doing any overclocking at all. ATM i mainly only run Battlefield 3 and the fan sounds like its running on full blast the whole time. The temps steadily rise from the mid 50's and once it hits 60*c i shut the program down. Im a tad bit of a worry-wart and knowing that the max temp is 62*c im worried to get to that point. I know that its pretty much ok to hit that point and maybe even a bit above but i no likey. I took a screen shot of just the idle temps, which have me a bit worried as well. Its at 40*C with having ran nothing but IE.

The thing that makes me think theres a problem is that i was running this exact rig (except for swapped HDD) and i wasnt having any sort of temp issues. Im just a tad lost in it and not even really sure if i even have a problem.

 

[trents]

Is the pic you show of HWMonitor a screen shot from idle or under load conditions?

 

[quert]

Is the pic you show of HWMonitor a screen shot from idle or under load conditions?

Idle, i had ran nothing besides IE and Paint to take the screenshot. Under load it gets up to 60*C before i go back to idle. I know it probably wouldnt but i dont want to fry it.

 

[trents]

Are the temps you quoted as being over 60c in your first post core temps or CPU temps? And what is your ambient temp like?

 

[quert]

Are the temps you quoted as being over 60c in your first post core temps or CPU temps? And what is your ambient temp like?

That was the CPU temp. Its right around 70*F in here.

 

[trents]

Core temps are the critical ones but with stock cooling they are usually within 3c of each other anyway. CPU temps are really CPU socket temps, being measured from the motherboard socket area whereas core temps are measured from the processor die.

Tell us about your case and its ventilation. Make and model of case? How many fans and how big. Where are the fans located and how are they oriented with regard to intake and exhaust in the case. Those temps seem a little high, even for a stock cooler.

 

[quert]

Core temps are the critical ones but with stock cooling they are usually within 3c of each other anyway. CPU temps are really CPU socket temps, being measured from the motherboard socket area whereas core temps are measured from the processor die.

Tell us about your case and its ventilation. Make and model of case? How many fans and how big. Where are the fans located and how are they oriented with regard to intake and exhaust in the case. Those temps seem a little high, even for a stock cooler.

http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3433320&CatId=1520

Thats my case, its a few years old though. Its all clean inside and i currently have my side off due to swapping out my HDD and then having problems with the temps. The main intake on the side is pretty much connected to the CPU fan, so it should be getting enough air, but like i said i have the side off ATM.

I've also tried unlocking the arm on the heatsink and wiggling it to make sure it was set ok. I also took the screws off but it still wouldnt come up, which im guessing is because of the thermal paste. I didnt pull on it anymore, didnt want to force it.

 

[trents]

Because your case is only 7.5" wide it likely will not have enough clearance to the side panel to be able to use a 120mm fan-based tower style cooler if you decide to go for an aftermarket cooler. You would need to limit yourself to a 92mm fan-based tower style cooler. Just a heads up there.

It might be worth redoing the thermal paste with a good aftermarket TIM like Arctic Silver 5 or Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX4. To remove the cooler and break the suction from the paste, slide the cooler off to the side rather than pulling up on it.

Many inexperienced system builders put way too much paste on when they install a cooler. First, clean the old stuff off well. Take most of it off with a dry coffee filter or two and hen finish up with one slightly moistened with some rubbing alcohol. When you apply the new paste, put a small blob in the center of the CPU face. "Small" being somewhere between the size of a BB and a pea. Don't try to spread it. Just lower the cooler down and twist it a little once to to the left and once to the right. Then clamp it down. Let the clamping pressure spread to paste. This way you don't introduce air bubbles.

 

[quert]

First, thanks for the replies.

I suppose ill try new thermal paste first. The part that has me confused is the fact that it was running without issue prior to a new HDD and 64-bit Windows 7. Ill try some better thermal paste and see where that gets me.

 

[trents]

I don't have a good answer to the change in temps since installing the new HD and Win7 64-bit unless it could be that it is now able to access all the memory and that puts more stress on the ICM, this generating more heat.

 

[quert]

So im thinking of just going ahead and getting a new cooler, did some initial/minor research and found this:

http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4434989&Sku=C283-1202

Im pretty sure it'll fit in my case, im just a little worried about the fan directions because the intake wouldnt be facing either one of the fans. And depending how it needs to go on the CPU it could potentially be blowing right onto my GPU.

Anyone have any experience with this cooler / heard anything aobut it?

 

[trents]

Actually, I have recently put that cooler on one of my computers at home. It's a good choice when the case is too narrow, like yours, to accept a 120mm fan based cooler. It faces east/west in the case, that is it will blow either to the front or to the back of the case. I would not think it would be blowing warm air into your video card. I find there is a lot of ignorance with regard to case air flow. The most important thing is to have the fans oriented to move the air from front low to top/back high. You want to bring in cool air from the front/bottom and exhaust warm air out the back/top. What you don't want is the fans fight each other by having them all point inward to the center of the case so as to cancel each other out. I have attached a picture of how it should be done.

 

[quert]

I figured it would go east/west and not north/south but wasnt sure how the fan had to go on, if it had to go north/south it would've blown right on my GPU.

Does it come with the dual fans like it shows or is the 2nd fan an optional add-on?

I was also thinking about moving my rig down into the (much cooler) basement, but was a little worried about the moisture. It isnt super moist down there and there is a dehumidifier down but i wasnt sure how serious the concerns of potential water damage would be.

Again, thank you for the help, i know its a little redundant. This isnt my first gaming rig but its the first one i've purchased everything individually and put together myself. Im certainly not ignorant to this stuff, but i certainly dont know it all either.

 

[Mandrake4565]

quert, if you can use newegg.com it's cheaper there.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103057

 

[trents]

Yes, the cooler does come with dual push pull fans. I'll warn you it's the most difficult one to install I've ever messed with. Not only do you have to take the motherboard out of the case but you will need another set of hands. And the instructions (as is usually the case) are worthless. I found the best way was to turn the cooler upside down on a table top. Apply thermal paste to the cooler's bottom. Lower the motherboard bottom up onto the cooler base so as to line up the threaded studs through the mount holes. Then have someone steady the cooler and the motherboard while you tighten the pressure nuts.

I certainly would not hesitate to move the rig down to the cool basement. Don't worry about the dampness. Electronics like a certain amount of moisture in the air because it helps eliminate static electricity.

I hope I was able to offer some helpful advice and I wish you well.

 

[quert]

Thanks Mandrake!

I also looked at this one:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065

It looked a bit too run-of-the-mill though and i didnt want to go with something that wasnt going to be good to save 10$.

 

[trents]

The Coolermaster Hyper 212+ is actually a better cooler than the one we have been discussing. It has a bigger heatsink and 120mm fan. But will it fit in your case? It's taller.

 

[quert]

Im looking at it thinking it will, it'd be close though.

If i get it would be using the thermal paste it come with be ok? Or is that a no-no and getting Arctic is a must?

 

[trents]

I think Coolermaster ships a pretty good grade of paste with their coolers. On the other hand, I would certainly recommend buying a tube of AS 5 or Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX4 to keep on hand because there will be times when you will want to reseat a cooler or do it for a friend. The stuff isn't very expensive.

 

[Mandrake4565]

+1 on the 212+ it's a really good cooler. I have it in a 7.75" wide case and it fits with about 1/2 " of clearance to the case side so it may fit in your case.