[Build Log] Home Automation

[JrClocker]

Edit 11/05/2018: Added Index

ADT Pulse - First Look:
- The iPhone App: https://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/782809-Build-Log-Home-Automation
- The Web Interface: https://www.overclockers.com/forums...e-Automation?p=8020444&viewfull=1#post8020444


Installing the First Round of Z-Wave Switches:
https://www.overclockers.com/forums...e-Automation?p=8019771&viewfull=1#post8019771


Bringing the SmartThings Hub into the Equation:
https://www.overclockers.com/forums...e-Automation?p=8021549&viewfull=1#post8021549

SmartThings and WebCoRE...YES!:
https://www.overclockers.com/forums...e-Automation?p=8021766&viewfull=1#post8021766

VERA Sucks:
https://www.overclockers.com/forums...e-Automation?p=8022728&viewfull=1#post8022728

Bringing ZigBee into the Mix...and a Talking House:
https://www.overclockers.com/forums...e-Automation?p=8025416&viewfull=1#post8025416

Success Story - A/C Leak Pan Full...House Notified Me:
https://www.overclockers.com/forums...e-Automation?p=8078973&viewfull=1#post8078973



Updated some Lighting to LED:
https://www.overclockers.com/forums...e-Automation?p=8019206&viewfull=1#post8019206


Moved from SmartThings/ADT Pulse Combo to Hubitat:
https://www.overclockers.com/forums...ild-Log-Home-Automation?p=8162294#post8162294






Welp - after playing around with Alexa and some WiFi enabled WeMo switches and plugs, I decided to go all-in on home automation.

It's nice being able to turn lights, ceiling fans, pool equipment, etc on and off from anywhere.

The biggest challenge with this is that the industry is still fragmented. This device doesn't necessarily talk with that device. You can get bridging hubs and use IFTTT to bring stuff together...but IFTTT sometimes has delays, and bringing everything into one app for your phone is still a bit of a challenge.

I did some research, and almost went with these Wink Relays for in-house control pads:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M...words=wink&dpPl=1&dpID=41x4auc8rqL&ref=plSrch

But, they don't necessarily interface with all devices. And they have no plan to integrate with WeMo devices.

Z-Wave has been adopted by big companies (like GE), so I think this is the best option.

Now, if you bring in a security system, the last thing you want is to have yet another app and control panel for this.

The best DIY solution I found was from Protect America. A decent solution, but all of the zones interconnect wirelessly...which means batteries. Even if you have a house like mine with all wired door and window contacts, they can't interfaces. And, when you add on the monitoring service...they are about the same price as ADT.

My current system is ADT, so after talking with the agent that just left my house, I'm going all in with ADT Pulse.

So, step 1 gets installed as an upgrade to my existing ADT system:

- cellular backup monitoring (if you just use a land line, the system can easily be defeated)
- automatic door locks (Z-Wave)
- automatic garage doors (Z-Wave)
- 3 infrared security cameras
- touch screen control pads
- Alexa integration

The touch screen keypads have full control over all security zones, smoke detectors, security cameras, and Z-Wave devices.

Also, the ADT app has the same functionality as the touch screen keypads.

The ADT guy will install the system on Wednesday to complete step 1.


Step 2 (me):
- Replace existing WeMo WiFi switches and plugs with GE Z-Wave switches and plugs.
- The GE devices are cool as they let you do 2-way, 3-way, etc smart switches (one of the few that does).
- Add Z-Wave devices into ADT Z-Wave network for control.
- The WeMo switches are great if you just want WiFi.

Step 2 (me):
- Replace 2 house thermostats with Z-Wave thermostats (Honeywell has best) or Nest thermostats.
- Add thermostats into ADT network for control.

Step 3 (me):
- Add in Z-wave dimmers.
- Add in Z-wave LED RGB bulbs


In parallel with this, I'm also replacing the flood lighting throughout the house with LED devices that fit into the existing 6" cans...I'll post as I do this.

 

[Jeff G]

We switched a couple years ago.
Two recommendations:
1) Check your thermostat wiring before buying a thermostat. Honeywell was not compatible with my existing wiring (it's been a few years so i dont remember specifics, but it had something to do with the furnace hot/ac hot wires were different). I didn't want to run new wiring, so I got a Nest. Super happy with it, got a few Nest protect too and really like them.
2) If you get 'smart' light bulbs, spring for new light switches that are 'smart' switches. When we first swapped to the Hue setup, you have to leave the switch 'on' and use your phone to turn the bulbs on/off. Works great until you forget your phone and need light. Now you have to leave the light on until you get to your phone because you cant turn the switch off or the bulb looses power. With smart switches, it turns the bulb off just like your phone would so you can still use your phone next time.

 

[JrClocker]

I already checked with my A/C guy about the thermostat wiring.

Yeah - the smart bulbs need power all the time. There are various Z-Wave switches that will do this.

The nice thing about Z-Wave is that it's a mesh network...so you don't have to worry about repeaters if you have 40-ish feet between nodes.

 

[||Console||]

I think projects like this are very cool , can't wait to see how it works out . Would I use it in my house ? Hell no =)
K.I.S.S , I do enough wiring @ work really not interested in electrical work when Im not getting payed to do it .
Please let us know how it works out . I would really want something like this to be hardwired (low voltage switching with a relay cabinet) and not rely on Wifi .

 

[JrClocker]

I agree on wired contacts.

The window/door contacts for the security system are all hard wired low voltage circuits. Each circuit is powered from the security system cabinet.

The smoke detectors (3 of them) are hard wired with a termination resistor. This is also powered from the cabinet.

The door locks, light switches, and sockets will be Z-Wave wireless. I don't think they make these with a hard wired control circuit. These connect into the main security cabinet by a Z-Wave wireless hub.

The security cameras are standard WiFi that connect into the cabinet through an Ethernet port.

I don't mind changing out switches/sockets...takes a few minutes each!

 

[SherylW]

I don't understand why did you switch to ADT pulse? Our home automation system is ADT based, it has complete control over the home. It monitors motion activity, windows, and doors opening/closing, security sensors etc. It checks the temperature schedules and settings and helps in energy saving. It automatically controls the thermostat, locks, and lights. When we leave home it automatically locks the door. It also sends alerts if we haven't armed the security system. It is being 1-year we are getting services from them. Still, we haven't found any issues or problem. It is covering the home with protective shields. I checked online for the ADT pulse services and found that it
1. Checks the status of your security system
2. Arm or disarm the security system automatically
3. Get text messages with alarm events and emergencies
4. Reminders for arm your security system
5. See event history and user activities
6. Download Apps
I am getting all these benefits from the security monitoring system of Canada expect the downloading option. Then what is the advantage of switching to ADT pulse?

 

[JrClocker]

For me, I already had an ADT system...for many years.

But, the main reason is that all windows and doors in my house utilize wired contacts.

All other systems I looked at utilize wireless contacts (and would not utilize the existing wired contacts in the house.)

The link you provided uses wireless contacts as well. While wireless contacts are easy to install and integrate, they have batteries that must be replaced...and hence, less reliable.

Also - for your system - if you do not have a cellular backup for the security system land line, your system can easily be defeated by simply disconnecting the phone line.

 

[SherylW]

How can I switch to ADT pulse?

 

[JrClocker]

I just called them on the phone.

 

[JrClocker]

ADT guy just finished...here are some screen shots from the ADT Pulse iPhone app.

Camera view:




The pool and front courtyard are dirty - had heavy rain past few days.

Front door and garage door view:




You can open and close the garage door, lock and unlock from the app...just touch the symbol.


And I current have 1 switch on the system. Switch view:




Just touch the symbol to turn the lamp on or off.

It takes a few seconds for the camera "live view" to get to the iPhone app.

It also lets you create rules for things to happen. Not full IFTTT functionality, but you still get a lot.

All history for alarm points in the system are easy to access from the app too.

Integration with Alexa was simple...enable the ADT skill. Now I say "Alexa, tell ADT to lock the front door" ... about 10 seconds later the door is locked. Pretty cool.

I'll add more as I put more stuff into the system.

I did have 2 nerdgasms today...

 

[||Console||]

Glad you are enjoying you toys . =) have fun playing with more

 

[Jeff G]

Alexa is a key piece of the puzzle. If you get a chance, pick up a few of those dots to place around the house. So much nicer to just ask Alexa to turn on a light then to use your phone (if you're like me at all, when I'm home I usually dont carry my phone on my person 100% of the time). The dots are nice to keep around where Alexa can't hear you (bedroom, basement, patio, etc).

 

[JrClocker]

Just added the Plex skill to Alexa.

Told Alexa to set my default server, and my family room NVIDIA Shield TV as the default playback device.

Now I can say "Alexa, tell Plex to play The Chronicles of Riddick" (or any other movie, song, or TV show I have on Plex) and she starts the Plex player on the shield and starts the title.

Simply amazing.

The Plex skill has many commands.

 

[JrClocker]

The next step in the home automation is replacing the old BR30 bulbs with retrofit LED assemblies. I chose Hyperikon LEDs for their high CRI.

I replaced the room hidden and walk-in closet fluorescent T12 fixtures with 18 W Hyperikon tubes and really liked the result. For these, you simply cut out the ballast, wire hot to one end tombstones, and neutral to the other. Then plug in the light and wam!

Here's how the LED fluorescent replacement bulbs look in the family room:




Living room:




Dining room:




Now, back to this. Here's a picture of the fixture that goes in 5 & 6 inch ceiling cans:



Out of the box:



You simply screw in the socket adapter, connect the socketed wire, and put the fixture into the ceiling. I have a mixture of 6 inch and 4 inch cans in my kitchen and family room. I won't post a picture of the 4" LED fixture...same connection, just with the different 4 inch can mounting.

Family room before:



Family room after:



Part of the kitchen before:



And after:



Finished look with lights out:



If you look closely at the last picture, you will see that I had to install finish rings. The contractor who drilled the original holes in the ceiling for the fixtures was pretty careless. So I installed "Goof Rings" to clean it up.

These are dimmable LEDs...and all set for the dimmable smart switches coming soon.

Here is a close up look of a fixture installed in a hallway:



Recessed...with a nice finished look!


More to come later!




Edit: Fixed some picture links

 

[TechWizard]

This is awesome! My girlfriend was pushing me a few weeks ago to try and find a way to professionally integrate "smart tech" into older homes affordably - looks like you're doing all the work for me

Definitely dig the Plex commands. Are you worried about security at all? Someone getting in your network and playing with your house? I mean, I'm super paranoid. If I went on vacation I would NOT trust the ADT app to tell me the garage is closed - I have to see these kinds of things with my own eyes via cameras lol.

 

[JrClocker]

Security is always a concern.

Am I worried? Not really.

For the Z-Wave devices...each Z-Wave device has encrypted communications back to a Z-Wave hub. From my understanding, hacking into Z-Wave is very difficult.

For the ADT implementation, all rules and automation that you have setup run within the ADT equipment that is installed on your home (i.e. the alarm box panel). Any change in status for connected devices can be setup to automatically text/email/drive other events, etc. For example, if a camera goes offline...or the garage door goes offline...I get a text and email (I have it set for any device going offline). I'm not sure if the text/email comes from the system or from an ADT server...but they arrive pretty quickly...near instantaneous.

For example, I have an automation setup where if the front door is open and the security system is armed...text me this event...and email me the 30 second video clip before this happened. I open up the video clip and see that my wife got home early.

Even if the high-tech automation doesn't work, I still have 24/7 monitoring by ADT of the alarm system...so I'm cool with that.

If I didn't have the ADT system and app...I would have no idea if my garage door was open or closed...so no harm no foul there!

The system I had installed has 3 cameras...2 fixed (front door, rear door lanai area) and 1 mobile camera (all IR cameras...the night vision picture is excellent). You can add as many as you want. We set the mobile camera to watch the dog during the day (my wife's idea)...but I could easily move the camera into the garage and have it watch the closed garage door 24/7...if I was as paranoid as you - hehe.

Heck, I even get a text message from my system when my wife unplugs the mobile camera!

 

[TechWizard]

Yeah that is a good point - If you have ADT watching 24/7 I guess it doesn't matter.

My garage door right now pops up sometimes when it hits the ground and rolls back up so that's the root of my garage paranoia!

 

[||Console||]

Nice work and looks good you should have a noticeable difference on your Power Bill , we have been using those for some ppl that wanted a LED upgrade . There is also some similar lts that will fit under the strapping and you tuck the driver off to the side if you were looking to add any in places that didn't have them .

We have a program called Efficiency Nova Scotia they will come to your house for free . They do a heat loss audit replace shower heads with low flows ,wrap your Hot water tank with a insulating blanket and will replace any incandescent/CFL with LEDs . After we finish apartments ( where I normally work ) the owners call them and they change every light in the brand new building ( I think this is abusing the system) they pull out the crappy dollar store bulbs we put in and replace with LED . The worst part is they won't even just give us the LEDs (we would leave the crappy ones still in the box much easier to work with ) to put in they have to take it out first .

 

[JrClocker]

OK - I have just completed a lot of research and have decided which switches I will add into my smart home.

As ADT Pulse is a Z-Wave system, I have to go with Z-Wave.

The Z-Wave Plus protocol is an update to the Z-Wave protocol and is backward compatible with Z-Wave. The major benefits are increase wireless range, faster processor, more memory, and improved mesh network/hopping capability.

ADT only lists GE Z-Wave switches/plugs as being compatible with ADT Pulse. Others do seem to work, but to avoid any potential issues I have decided to go with the GE devices. The New Z-Wave Plus devices do not appear on the ADT Pulse compatibility list, but GE advertises them as ADT Pulse certified. To verify this, I purchased 1 of the new generation GE Z-Wave Plus plug in dimmers and was able to successfully connect it into the ADT Pulse Z-Wave network. I was able to turn the device on and off, as well as dim it through my iPhone and ADT keypads. Additionally, I was able to verify that it will properly dim (without humming) the LED ceiling fixtures posted above.

Even though other dimmers/switches look more "flashy", I am satisfied with this choice.

The only bummer is that the ADT Pulse system does not currently support the "double tap" feature of these switches. (i.e. double tap to turn all lights on or off in a given area.)


Dimmer:
- GE 14294 Z-Wave Plus Dimmer
- Product Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Switch:
- GE 14291 Z-Wave Plus Switch
- Product Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1AHC3R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Add-On Switch for 3-Way Switch Configurations:
- GE 12723 Add-On Switch
- Product Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


What is pretty cool about the switches and dimmers is that they can both be connected in 3-Way (4-Way and 5-Way) with the same add-on switch. The add-on switch is not part of the Z-Wave network. It communicates back to the "main" switch through the traveler wire, and takes on the functionality of the main switch that it is connected to. For example, if the add on switch is paired with a dimmer, then the add-on switch will act as a dimmer. If paired with a switch, then it will act like a switch.


My Initial Switch Layout to replace existing "dumb" switches is as follows:

Family Room:
- Switch: 2 (up-lighting and ceiling fan)
- Dimmer: 2 (recessed lighting)

Kitchen:
- Dimmer: 3 (recessed lighting and hanging fixture)
- 3-Way: 1

Living Room:
- Switch: 1 (up-lighting)
- 3-Way: 1

Master Bedroom:
- Switch: 2 (up-lighting and ceiling fan)

Outdoor Lanai:
- Switch 2: (up-lighting and ceiling fans)
- 3-Way: 1

Hallways:
- Switch 3: (recessed lighting)
- 3-Way: 1


Total Switch: 10
Total Dimmer: 5
Total 3-Way: 4


Everything has been ordered (about $850) and will be at my house by Sunday. I have Monday and Tuesday off for the 4th of July Holiday, so I will be doing my install then!


Planned Automation Scripts:

(1) Turn On House Lights When I Come Home
- If Alarm set in Away Mode (Alarm is Armed)
---> After 530 PM, If Front Door Camera Motion or Front Door Opens
------> Turn on Living Room light for 30 minutes
------> Turn on Hallway Lights for 30 minutes

(2) Turn on Outside Lanai Fans When I Need a Smoke
- If Alarm is not set
---> All day, If Lanai Door Opens
------> Turn on Lanai fans for 30 minutes

(3) Shut the House Down for the Night
- If Alarm is set to Stay Mode (Alarm is armed)
---> Close Garage Door
---> Lock all doors
---> Turn on Master Bedroom Ceiling Fan
---> Turn off all lights
---> Turn off all outside lights and fans
---> Turn everything off at 2 AM (just in case the kids are up late and turned something back on)

(4) Movie Mode
- If Alarm is not set
---> Turn off Kitchen Lights
---> Turn off Family Room Up-lighting
---> Set Family Room Recessed lights to 50%

(5) Party Mode - Do Not Turn Off Anything
- When system is set to Party Mode, turn on per conditions but do not turn anything off
- (A bit more logic work than this, but it is easy to do)


I'll keep adding more as I think of things to do.

The plan is "wife approved". My initial prototype was to use the 2 plug in modules I have. I triggered one for the front door motion / door open and the other for lanai door open. She thought that was pretty cool.

If I cannot get the automation working as I like it through ADT Pulse, the above switches are compatible with the Samsung SmartThings Hub (2nd generation) and I can go that route. However, I will lose the ADT contact points (door open, camera motion, etc.) and would have to add additional Z-Wave sensors into the house. Let's hope I don't have to go this route.



(I have told my wife that my mid-life crisis is officially My Smart House - hehe).

 

[JrClocker]

Finished up this long holiday weekend installing the above mentioned switches:




The trickiest of the lot was this triple gang box:



3 Z-wave switches and 2 3-way switches. I had to do some major surgery in the box to make it all fit! (Each switch requires a ground and neutral connection in addition to the normal hot and load wires.)

The add on 3-way switches are easy to wire up...once you know what really is the traveler wire. It's supposed to be red, but I had one set where the red was wired to the other switch black load wire. It must be reverse wired in the light circuit.

The traveler wire for these 3-way add on switches only uses low voltage for communication.

I had another circuit where the white wire was the live wire, and the black wire was the neutral.

The moral of this story is do what I did...grab your meter and make sure the voltages all check out. Don't trust the wire colors.


The programming is all done (was pretty simple). Now, I open the front door after sunset (or a trigger from the front motion camera) and the living room and hallway lights come on, then go off 5 minutes later. No more stumbling around in the dark when I get home late and forget to leave a light on.

I open the lanai door to go onto the lanai, and he ceiling fans turn on for me, then go off 30 minutes later!