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MaddMutt

Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
I'm looking at building a Custom Dual GPU Benching Loop. I will be using the EKWC Thermophere GPU water block. It will fit Nvidia 8800 and up cards and AMD 2xxx and up cards. I already have 4 3x120 Rads from Hardware Labs with a FPI of 30.

Q: I'm looking at cooling 500w - 600w from the OCed GPU's.
This would be 2 x 3x120 Rads. correct??
I First used DELTA fans with a 125+ CFM and a 40+ DBA. I would like something that is quieter even if I have to have 6 fans per Rad. What Fans would be recommended???

Thank You
 
You could always pick up a bunch of Yate Loon low/medium speed fans and sandwich the rads with them. They can be had for like $4 a piece so the whole kit and caboodle would run you about $50 for 24 fans.
 
You kinda shot yourself in the foot with the 30 FPI radiators as they require very high static pressure fans to get the job done.

Using these in push/pull will get the job done and you can still be in the room with them.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/scythe-slip-stream-120mm-db-case-fan-1900rpm.html#Specifications

What I've always liked about these fans is the smaller motor body doesn't block as much area as most others and allows more airflow through the radiator.

What additional cooling are you planning for the GPUs memory chips and VRs?
 
You kinda shot yourself in the foot with the 30 FPI radiators as they require very high static pressure fans to get the job done.

Using these in push/pull will get the job done and you can still be in the room with them.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/scythe-slip-stream-120mm-db-case-fan-1900rpm.html#Specifications

What I've always liked about these fans is the smaller motor body doesn't block as much area as most others and allows more airflow through the radiator.

What additional cooling are you planning for the GPUs memory chips and VRs?

Thank You for your assistance :)

This is a in-between step right now as I currently don't have the funds to buy the Water Chiller. My Benching Setup is currently split between AIR and Dry Ice. I have to plan a couple of weeks in advance to Bench Dry Ice and would like to be able to Bench within a Few Hours of having the Time. I would like to have a 3-Way Benching Setup where I can run AIR then Chilled Water and then Dry Ice. I currently have a 6700k with a AIO and a 1800x setup for Dry Ice.
I would like to add water cooling of the GPU's to my Benching Setup. I would cool the Mem\VRM with basic AIR from 1 or more Delta's but not have 9 Delta's @ 46+ DBA running full blast at the same time.
I could be chasing my tail in this ($$$ Wise) and it would not be the first time. I see the Chilled Water Setup as a step below\before Dry Ice. If the temps are roughly = then it is a wasted step and money.

I welcome any advice in this as this may help others.
 
Thank You for your assistance :)

This is a in-between step right now as I currently don't have the funds to buy the Water Chiller. My Benching Setup is currently split between AIR and Dry Ice. I have to plan a couple of weeks in advance to Bench Dry Ice and would like to be able to Bench within a Few Hours of having the Time. I would like to have a 3-Way Benching Setup where I can run AIR then Chilled Water and then Dry Ice. I currently have a 6700k with a AIO and a 1800x setup for Dry Ice.
I would like to add water cooling of the GPU's to my Benching Setup. I would cool the Mem\VRM with basic AIR from 1 or more Delta's but not have 9 Delta's @ 46+ DBA running full blast at the same time.
I could be chasing my tail in this ($$$ Wise) and it would not be the first time. I see the Chilled Water Setup as a step below\before Dry Ice. If the temps are roughly = then it is a wasted step and money.

I welcome any advice in this as this may help others.

I haven't suggested you go with a Chilled Water Setup.
Chilled Water Cooling like I am running not only requires money Sir.
It requires skill, determination, tenacity, and a lot, and I mean a lot, of invested time.

The good thing is it's not evaporative or melting like the Dry Ice or regular Ice, and it's transferable to new hardware.

FYI: Aliens is one of my favorite movies so please correct your sig, the quote below is exactly what was said in the movie.

Ripley: How long after we're declared overdue can we expect a rescue?

Corporal Hicks: [pause] Seventeen days.

Private Hudson: Seventeen *days*? Hey man, I don't wanna rain on your parade, but we're not gonna last seventeen hours!
 
I haven't suggested you go with a Chilled Water Setup.
Chilled Water Cooling like I am running not only requires money Sir.
It requires skill, determination, tenacity, and a lot, and I mean a lot, of invested time.

The good thing is it's not evaporative or melting like the Dry Ice or regular Ice, and it's transferable to new hardware.

FYI: Aliens is one of my favorite movies so please correct your sig, the quote below is exactly what was said in the movie.

I'm trying to take my assortment of water cooling parts to the next level. I had taken it down\apart and had put the parts\pieces in a box in the closet. I'm currently not looking at long term usage but short sprints. That may change at the end of the year. I under stand that this is not something that is thrown together overnight. I have killed 2 AMD 1207 Server Boards (Both From Coolant Leaks) 6 - 6 Core CPU's when the VRM fried (From Coolant Leak) and 4 DDR2-800 1GB ECC Memory. I hope to one day have your vast knowledge of both systems (Water\Phase Change). The admission price for Chilled Water has dropped several hundred over the last several years. The price for Phase Change has dropped also but still remains over 1k ($$) to purchase.
You are not pushing me into buying a Water Chiller. I hope that this will add an additional cooling step i my Benching Setup.
I have read and seen articles on how to take a A/C unit and turn it into a Phase Change CPU Cooler. I also realize that it is beyond my capabilities to do physically, Mentally, and Monetary.

I have also updated my SIG to correct the errors that it had:)
 
Thanks for correcting the sig! :)

Those earlier radiators are way behind compared to current radiator design.

I've learned the hard way, sometimes it's just the best move to get rid of the old school accumulation and go with new, even if going with new requires saving to be able to do it.

I say that because from my past experience I spent more money trying to get the older technology to do what I wanted, and it did not!

And then spent even more getting what would work properly, so I would have actually saved money if I had gone with the new to start with.
 
Q: Do you have a preference on a Rad Manufacturer?? I Like HW Labs.
I was looking at picking up this Rad - http://www.performance-pcs.com/blac...-low-profile-radiator-red.html#Specifications
I already have some good quite case fans - http://www.performance-pcs.com/cool...leflow-120mm-blue-led-fan.html#Specifications and http://www.performance-pcs.com/cool...olers-and-radiators-model.html#Specifications.
How are GPU's counted Power\Watts wise??? Do you count the # of 8 pin\6 pin connections and add 75w from the PCIe slot???
 
How are GPU's counted Power\Watts wise??? Do you count the # of 8 pin\6 pin connections and add 75w from the PCIe slot???

I normally look at the rated TDP of the card for wattage of a card when sizing cooling for it. For example a stock GTX 960 has a TDP of 120 watts, whereas my Gigabyte 960 has 2 6 pin connectors in addition to the power delivered through the pcie slot. This in theory means the power delivery could handle 225 watts. While I am sure the card pulls more than a stock card do to the factory overclock and the additional fans and such there is no way it is actually using the full power draw that the power setup can handle.
 
I normally look at the rated TDP of the card for wattage of a card when sizing cooling for it. For example a stock GTX 960 has a TDP of 120 watts, whereas my Gigabyte 960 has 2 6 pin connectors in addition to the power delivered through the pcie slot. This in theory means the power delivery could handle 225 watts. While I am sure the card pulls more than a stock card do to the factory overclock and the additional fans and such there is no way it is actually using the full power draw that the power setup can handle.

^ With normal usage the card SHOULD be close to it's rated TDP of 120w - 150w.
When taken further by OCing the TDP will never exceed the MAX POWER that can be delivered to the card??? I have a EVGA GTX-580 Classy that has "a max power of 150w+150w+75w+PCIe = 450w" and then add the MSI GTX-580 Lightning EE that has "a max power of 150w+150w+PCIe = 375w". This would total {825w} to be my "MAX Watts" that I need to cool.
I can't find my old Black Ice GT Stealth 360 Rad that was 30mm - 36mm thick and had 30FPI. They do have the new Black Ice GTS 360 Rad that is 30mm with 16FPI and the GTX 360 Rad that is 54mm with 16FPI.
The rads have the theoretical capability to cool ~ 1000w - 1800w but is 825w the MAX I will see when overclocking????
 
I very much doubt you will ever pull that much power unless you go extreme sub zero.

I had 2 Hd7970s (300w tdp) with voltmod running at 1.4v and 1350 core on a cold loop. The power input is theoretically good for 375 per card. I was able to bench both these cards together on a 850 watt psu so I doubt you will truly be able to see full power draw on those cards just running a water loop, on water heat will become an issue long before you start seeing that type of power draw.
 
For benching more extra room the better. I'm a fan of rad
Overkill myself maybe even a truck rad with the fan on it =) .
I have a 2x120mm and 3x120mm just cooling my CPU.
 
I agree ...... That's what I run on just my OCed Ryzen.

My thinking though is if this is for just benching then you are not looking to stuff it in a case, the extra surface area will help allowing more fans possibly allowing for quieter fans or running big fans slower reducing noise and you have extra cooling if you need it later.
 
I can see running high FPI on screamers for benching, to give you that extra sound effect :p and give you every inch of cooling.

I agree with Bass, for open case benchers (if this is the case), to go with a MORA rad. Throw some QDCs and now you have a nice external modular H20 system for benching. I believe going with a lower FPI rad(s) are more for the daily driver who wants it quiet.
 
I'm looking to add a Water Cooler into my benching setup. Right now I'm looking at stop gaps until then. It also looks like I might get "my own room" for my computers by the end of the year :) I can start back Folding and having a Home Server in the same room. This time around, I will be looking to WC my folding rig. I could be wrong on the WC as a step before I bench the GPU with Dry Ice.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/water...k.html#Details < This is an excellent idea but how well does it actually do in replacing 3 x 360 Rads. I would have to get the model that allows a push\pull config as I'm done with using Delta Fans on my Rads :thup:
 
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