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CPU coolers for Llano on F1A75-V PRO

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[deXter]

New Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Hi all,

I'm planning on buying an ASUS F1A75-V PRO. If you take a closer look at the socket, I'm not sure what sort of aftermarket cooler can go on it.

The Noctua NH-D14 would be perfect for my needs but I'm not sure if it'll be a perfect fit for the board. They mention that AM3 would need a backplate but I don't know if this backplate is supplied with the cooler, and if it would suit this mobo. (I read that all AM2/AM3 coolers are supposed to be compatible with FM1)

Any advise in this matter is highly appreciated.

(PS: If you want to recommend an alternate cooler, then my budget is $170 and max noise limit is 30dB)
 
You can go the water cooling route, or if you want... or you could get any socket AM2/AM2+/AM3 cooler. They all use the same retention system.
 
The Nh-d14 should fit, but you have to alter the setup some.

You will need to setup the fans as so, 140mm in the middle in push pull, then 120mm in Pull setup near the rear of the case.

It might be possible to setup it up in the standard push, then pushpull with the fan over the top of the memory but it kinda depends on the memory. Not 100% sure on this though.

I have a Biostar Fm1 board in my poession for a review. It has similar spacing between the ram and socket. I just haven't put my nh-d14 on it yet. To veryify this but its on my list of things to try.

I was planning on using the Noctua NH-U12P, which is a 4 heatpipe single bank heatsink. Its equipt with dual 120mm fans in a push pull setup. Noctua will also offer you a free upgrade to turn the heatsink 90 degrees, for amd systems. This is to let the heatsink not overhang the ram, and direct the air towards the rear casefan. Instead of in a vertical top to bottom direction of flow.

If you can give me a bit of time try out the NH-d14 on the the fm1 board I have and let you know how it fits.
 
Alright so I just went and tried my Noctua NH-d14 on my Biostar socket Fm1 motherboard.

Went without a hitch, Mounted much like any other Noctua mounts to a socket am2/am3 mobo. It also turns out that the heatsink is high enough to clear the ram. At least some ram. It cleared my corsair XMS3 stuff fine no problem. Not quite the same with my Dominators Gt's. For it to clear the dominator GT's you will need to take off the heat spreader. Which is fairly easy thing to do. You can avoid it somewhat in the third and fourth rows of ram. But not in the first and second rows. Here are some pictures to better show what I am talking about.

Nh-d14 with XMS 3 in sockets two and four
Fm1 - 3.jpg

Nh-d14 with XMS 3, and a single Dominator GTX3 with the heat spreader
Fm1 - 2.jpg

Nh-d14 with XMS 3. and single Dominator GTX3, without the heat spreader.
Fm1 - 1.jpg

Nocuta NH-U12P heatsink, standard mounting.
Fm1 - 4.jpg
 
@TsunamiJuan: Thank you so much, that was exactly what I was looking for!

@Conumdrum: The Rasa looks pretty good. Been reading a few reviews about it and it's gotten me all interested in a watercooling setup.

At the end of the day though I just want to go for the most efficient and slient setup. This one review said that the Rasa uses 34 dBA fans - which is slightly above the limit I'm aiming for; but I'm assuming that's only the peak sound level - at the highest load? I also read that the pump can be noisy. What's your take on this?

Finally, how does the Rasa compare cooling wise with the Noctuas or other air options? I can't seem to find any comparative tests, but the general opinion I gather is that the Rasa should be cooler by atleast 10°C ?
 
Noctua claims that the fans on the D14 put off 19.8db for the 140mm, and 19.6db for the 120mm fan. That is without using the resistor setups to slow the fan down. So the fans are both at around 1300rpm's.

If those db readings are accurate they are around 14db quieter than the Rasa.
 
Proper watercooling is always cooler. That cooler will easily beat the Air coolers.

Thing is, do you need it that cool? Whats your plan for the OC? The biggest thing about WC now is you can get rid of the powerful GPU fans screaming.
 
@TsunamiJuan: Thanks, that's good to know.

Proper watercooling is always cooler. That cooler will easily beat the Air coolers.

Thing is, do you need it that cool? Whats your plan for the OC? The biggest thing about WC now is you can get rid of the powerful GPU fans screaming.

Well at the moment I just want to cool the APU; I plan to clock it as high as the cooler and rig will allow me (I've read alteast one review where it ran stable @ 3.9GHz on air, so I'm hoping to go higher with a WC).
When I do buy a discreet gfx card, I guess the WC will give me the flexibility to add an extra block to the loop.
 
@TsunamiJuan: Thanks, that's good to know.



Well at the moment I just want to cool the APU; I plan to clock it as high as the cooler and rig will allow me (I've read alteast one review where it ran stable @ 3.9GHz on air, so I'm hoping to go higher with a WC).
When I do buy a discreet gfx card, I guess the WC will give me the flexibility to add an extra block to the loop.

And adding more raddage, meaning more money PLUS the GPU cooling costs.

Each part needs cooling, it's all about physics.

Going with an integrated setup for now, PLEASE stay air cooled. Just get a nice air cooler for now. Honestly, a integrated setup isn't a big wattage hog or a uber performer. Save your pennies.
 
You should check out Hokiealumnus's reviews I think he has temperatures listed under his OC review of the 3850. Its the same chips that I am currently using.

AMD A8-3850 APU Review – Llano for Desktop
Overclocking AMD’s A8-3850 Llano APU

Right now at stock speeds on the Nocuta nh-d14, my idle temp is about 20c and the highest full load temp i have seen so far is 27c. Ambient air temp during this was 18c. Haven't over clocked it yet. But if it acts anything like the Fusion e-350 does. The chip will start to increase in temperature quite a bit as i raise the bus speed, and voltage.

On the fusion e-350 i very quickly went from a tolerable temperature to those that swung wildly out of control.However that chip was rated as a much lower speed and wattage. So pushing a 1.6ghz chip to run at 2.2ghz is of course gonna yeild alot of heat output.
 
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