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CPU Overheat please help

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When the flow meter stops, is the pump still running?? Not to ask the obvious question here... :)

Edit: oops... zero vibration... got it.

Try the pump on another header? Another system to see if its your header or system that doesnt like the pump??? Seems lime the pump or power is flaky.
 
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When the flow meter stops, is the pump still running?? Not to ask the obvious question here... :)

This.

We need to focus and see if it's the pump, flow meter or still blockage in your loop.

Your best bet is to test the whole system outside of the loop and give it sometime before assembling it all back into the rig. You need to test it all in different configurations. I recommend on using all the same components you're using in the rig, outside, including the blocks, etc. Then you can start taking a piece off of the loop, one by one till you see constant flow via your flow wheel for example but first, I would see if there's either an issue with the pump and or it's settings. It's possible your pump might be on a 'fan curve' based on temps through the BIOS or OS and it's ramping your pump up and down making you think, your pump is bad so I would make sure you're good on that front.
 
So I've noticed when the flow wheel stops if i kinda wiggle the pipe a little or tap on it it starts again so I'm guessing maybe even tho I took it out and rinsed it maybe the flow wheel might just be getting fkd up and even when its stopped its flowing still ? or could that mean the flow is weak and something is still fkd up? like it just stopped and i beat on it a little now its spinning like crazy aagin lol i duno ><
 
So I've noticed when the flow wheel stops if i kinda wiggle the pipe a little or tap on it it starts again so I'm guessing maybe even tho I took it out and rinsed it maybe the flow wheel might just be getting fkd up and even when its stopped its flowing still ? or could that mean the flow is weak and something is still fkd up? like it just stopped and i beat on it a little now its spinning like crazy aagin lol i duno ><

That to me sounds like it's your silly flow meter being wonky after all. I would either RMA it or just replace it with something else. Check out Bitspower or Koolance if you want to spend a bit more for a flow sensor + display for a single bay.

Bitspower

511ElD0BlPL.jpg

Koolance

ins-fm19_p1-700x700.jpg

dcb-fm01_p1-700x700.jpg
 
So I've noticed when the flow wheel stops if i kinda wiggle the pipe a little or tap on it it starts again so I'm guessing maybe even tho I took it out and rinsed it maybe the flow wheel might just be getting fkd up and even when its stopped its flowing still ? or could that mean the flow is weak and something is still fkd up? like it just stopped and i beat on it a little now its spinning like crazy aagin lol i duno ><

You do not even need a flow indicator, they add flow restriction, they eventually screw up just like you are experiencing right now, and they're a waste of money.

Trust me sir, if your flow does actually stop your CPU will overheat and shut the machine down before any damage occurs.
 
You do not even need a flow indicator, they add flow restriction, they eventually screw up just like you are experiencing right now, and they're a waste of money.
It seems John Lennon was in agreement on that point. :D


I'm just sitting here watching the wheels go round and round
I really love to watch them roll
No longer riding on the merry-go-round
I just had to let it go
 
So the weirdest thing about my issue is that after a few hours of pc use I can no longer tap the flow wheel to get it spinning again but I can feel the pump is definitely vibrating so I know its still working. I know ya'll said ignore it since my temps are fine (40-50c) but its driving me nuts. Could my flow just be poor ? or do you just think the wheel is ****ed up despite that it works fine when I fresh boot my pc and stops a few hours in
 
How many times does it have to be said? :)

A reboot likely works because of the initial startup pressure...from none to pressure.
 
The problem is one of 3 things, the flow meter is bad, the pump is bad or the loop is clogged up from using pre mixed coolant or dies.

If I were you I do this in order.
1: Ditch the POS flow meter, you don't need it and they're almost always junk. Aside from looking cool and retro you don't want it.
2:Test the pump out side the loop. Have the inlet tube suck water out of a bucket or something and have the outlet go down the drain.
3:Flush the system and clean everything. Replace the coolant with Distilled water, biocide and a corrosion inhibitor if you mix metals.
DO NOT USE PRMIXED COOLANT OR DYES. There is a good chance that your problem started with a premixed coolant. They brake down and clog up systems, some can even corrode blocks and rads.

How many times does it have to be said? :)

A reboot likely works because of the initial startup pressure...from none to pressure.

I second this.

Ill get delete it all the same because even though it works for me and others I do not want to spread miss information to anyone that could ruin their build and you are on top of his issue.

Your not spreading miss information. I been water cooling system since 2003ish both for myself and as a side job. Wile silver and EK's crappy nickle do not mix well.You should not be using anything from EK that's Nickle plated to begin with. I have ran many loops with silver coil,sliver fittings or silver lined tubing not once (aside form EK nickle crap) have I once had a problem with silver and nickle. I had more problems with brass rads and nickle blocks if anything. This is coming form a guy that's water cooled 500+ systems of all shapes and sizes, its not a works for some and not everyone, I had too many systems for it to be that way, its more of a works for the educated and not the uneducated.
That aside there are better things you can use inplace of silver, silver only works if you run the loop regularly and still does not do that good of a job. Copper sulfate is far better then silver.
 
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We can go back and forth on this but I stand with what I said. It's not just EK's nickle that has an issue with silver. Other metals from many custom cooling companies have an issue with oxidization. My Swiftech CPU blocks (copper) and my Koolance QDC's (Brass) didn't jive well with my distilled water and silver coil for a few years. To each their own but people should still be educated on their options.

We're all educated here Bill as we've seen and have assisted many folks over the years around here. Old, new, times change, parts change, etc. Sure metals are the same to an extent but there's no need to recreate the wheel. Bill, your 500+ systems include custom liquid cooling desktops from your average custom cooling joe or we talking about 500+ systems in a IT setting that all use the same parts? Regardless, your experience with liquid cooling loops is no different then the experience many of us have at these forums. Trying to debunk what one member said doesn't help the OP anyway shape or form. It only adds confusion.

Premixed coolants from a reputed company that you bought your gear from shouldn't be a problem as long as there are no dyes in them. It also keeps your warranty intact which is very important.
 
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