Cracked polytop whitewater:(

[zip22]

no, but in theory, you can get the same amount of pressure easily with both tops. i was just thinking that if he was judging how compressed it was by how much of the screw was sticking out, then it would be more force with the copper top cause its thicker

 

[TheWiz]

RE

I have touched the top of my WW and it isnt even warm, so I cant see a copper top making more than a degree or two difference. Also just looking at how the poly top is fitted to the copper base, its hard to see how it can warp/bow.

Never did I say the copper top was "absorbing" more heat, thus reducing temps....read what I said.

There comes a point where you reach a certain amount of pressure at which time it doesnt matter how much more you clamp it down. It wont help you and just risk damaging something.

The copper top added stronger support IN MY CASE, which enabled me too gain much needed pressure. I'm not talking about "cpu die" breaking pressure...I'm talking "normal" mounting pressure by being able to compress the springs tightly.

yeah, im not sure how the poly top can warp. maybe you feel more secure with the copper top so you tightened it more? also, the copper top looks thicker, so wouldn't that mean that if you tightened the knobs down to the same level, the springs would be compressed more?

Not correct at all, I can compress the springs fully with BOTH poly and copper tops, BUT, there IS a warping effect going on as my OC was very unstable with the poly top. High temps, and a unstable overclock with the poly compressed fully.

Replaced it with the copper top from Logic Cooling and I can now fully compress the springs. I dropped 6-8deg load going from poly to copper.

Like I said...I can reproduce it over and over again. So far your "opinions" are way off. I"ve used just about every block on the market starting witht the "maze 2". Never had a problem...untill the WW poly.

In MY CASE..it IS warping witht he poly...

no, but in theory, you can get the same amount of pressure easily with both tops. i was just thinking that if he was judging how compressed it was by how much of the screw was sticking out, then it would be more force with the copper top cause its thicker

Lemme repeat, I've watercooled for a long time and am no stranger to mounting differences. Once again, this is FACT not made up in MY situation.

The point is...

Poly fully compressed springs = unbstable overclock and high temps

Copper fully compressed springs = 6-8 degc reduction in temps and stable overclock.

You can choose to believe or disregaud this...but it is in fact still only your "opinions" as you haven't tested this as I have.

I'll refer you to This Thread where the same issue was discussed.

Sheesh...
/me reminds self to not speak up again

cheers

 

[CGR]

Well... sounds like its just your opinions too...

 

[zip22]

that other thread mentions warping, but it is explained that the warping is corrected by the plate above the channels i still don't understand how if in both cases, the springs where tightened exaclty the same, it would result in 6-8 degrees difference. you said that with both tops, you can fully compress the springs, but then on the copper top when you were able to fully compress the springs, which contradicts what you said. im sorry, i'm (we're?) just having trouble with your logic and trying to interprete your results.

 

[TheWiz]

that other thread mentions warping, but it is explained that the warping is corrected by the plate above the channels i still don't understand how if in both cases, the springs where tightened exaclty the same, it would result in 6-8 degrees difference. you said that with both tops, you can fully compress the springs, but then on the copper top when you were able to fully compress the springs, which contradicts what you said. im sorry, i'm (we're?) just having trouble with your logic and trying to interprete your results.

Ok....lets clear this up shall we.

I can fully compress the springs with both the poly and copper tops. The difference is that with the poly top and fully compressed springs I get worse temps than when I back the springs off ALOT. As well as an unstable overclock. If nothing else, this indacates warping. I can barely compress the springs without a instant instability and temps climbing...

With the copper top I can fully compress the springs and achieve MUCH lower temps.

I guess, I'm having a hard time figuring out why you guys can't fathom this as a possibility. I'm speaking with data, from my own testing. I've done well over 20 mounts with both the poly and copper tops....it's reproducable...so whats the problem here??

The topic of this thread was really about a cracked poly...which you can in NO WAY throw out as a "IT CAN"T HAPPEN" scenario.

The copper top shines in this regaurd...even if you choose to believe the WW can't warp with the poly top.

I'm in no way degrading this block. I love it, in fact it's the best block I've ever had the pleasure of mounting...but it did warp for me.

Please let me know if I am unclear yet again

 

[zip22]

its just hard for me to understand how the polycarbonate can warp and produce negative effects like that, but it definately seems like you did a lot of testing. as for the cracking, i know thats a real problem and thats why i got the aluminum. (and then just got a little river whitewater thats all copper ).

 

[Miralcos]

its just hard for me to understand how the polycarbonate can warp and produce negative effects like that, but it definately seems like you did a lot of testing.

It's not the top that is warping, it's the base. Put a stronger top on it and it can't warp.

Well unless you use a impact wrench...

 

[Vengance_01]

I will post some with sadness

How long have you had your WW from Dtek? I hope mine will last

 

[Milkman]

Bought in december, just before Christmas.

 

[Milkman]

Well just got my top from Logicooling, chose the machine finished top and it is so sweet back up on water and over 2700 again, I am so happy I have to wipe tears from my eye anyway this is the way to go, great job Neomosis!!

 

[H2OLinux]

Well just got my top from Logicooling, chose the machine finished top and it is so sweet back up on water and over 2700 again, I am so happy I have to wipe tears from my eye anyway this is the way to go, great job Neomosis!!

I've got two of them in today. One has numerous dings along the copper outer edges and the inside of the top has arcs all across it like a portion of a circle, the center slot is cut so that it looks like you took two suckers and put them stick to stick with the round candy on the ends. The other one is nice and shiny on the inside area, but there are numerous dings/gouges in the copper. Impressed, no... extremely happy... no... live with em... for now yes until I can unmount them and take them to a friend to have the gouges/poor finish redone (these where the polished ones - I do have to admit the polishing job - where done - looks great except for the dings).

 

[JFettig]

Those arcs on the top are from the machine when it cut them. I dont understand what you mean by round candy. Milkman I would like to see pictures! same with you H2OLinux.


Jon

 

[H2OLinux]

Those arcs on the top are from the machine when it cut them. I dont understand what you mean by round candy. Milkman I would like to see pictures! same with you H2OLinux.
Jon

for the round candy.. kinda like this:

o=o

where instead of a steady straight line with a 180 curve it has a "ball" end on it. No big deal, and it appears that just going to the copper lowered the processor temps aby about 1 degree C.
It's like a bit was used to start the initial holes and then whatever cut the slot between the two did not cut to the farthest outside diameter of the "circle". I was worried that it would cause a dispruption of the flow into the block.

The funny thing with the arcs was one of them had it and one didn't. Doesn't seem to affect anything, but was worried they might be bad enough that the o-ring wouldn't seal against them. I think the problem with the dings was due to the fact that both were packed into the same box with just peanuts around them and the few wraps of the plastic. You might want to think about using some bubble wrap to put 'em in and then place them in peanuts if you ship more than one at a time (or put a divider to keep them seperated.

I DO have to admit.. they sure look as sharp as hell mounted inside the case!