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Dan's 2nd build log - NZXT h630 IB-E build (PICS)

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BobcatDan

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2002
This build started when my good friend offered me a spare Ivy Bridge-E chip, so this build is dedicated to him.

THANKS DAVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Onto the parts list!

IB-E CPU (THANKS DAVE!!!!!!!)
Asus X79 Delux mobo - new for build
GSkill 1866 Ram - 4x4GB - from previous build
2x GTX 570 - EK WBs - from previous build
2x D5 pumps - EK dual pump top - 1 pump from previous build
Cylinder res - from previous build
Koolance 380i cpu WB - new for build
Swiftech MCR320-XP rad - from previous build
Alphacool 280 Monsta (80mm thick) rad - new for this build
Primochill 1/2-3/4 tubing - obviously new for this build
5x Noctua NF-F12 and 2x NF-A14 fans - new for this build

[IMG=http://imageshack.us/a/img801/987/wxv1.jpg][/IMG]

That's all of the water cooling specifics, so on to the build.

I'll start of with a quick overview of the H620, since I don't think I've seen another build log with this case. In short, it's a decent case with lots of mounting options, but the 200mm options cause issues for water cooling. Basically, the holes around the radiator combined with the poor ventilation of a silenced case mean that in stock form a 120mm radiator will recycle some of the case air rather than pulling it all from outside.






So to help with this, I decided to make some radiator shrouds out of transparent plastic sheet from the hardware store. One 18"x 24" sheet was enough for me, and I chose to use the thinner 0.093" thickness. It's a little hard to see, but you get the idea.



The last image shows an extra bit of plexi I used to mount the pump and HDD since all of the cages were removed for the front 280mm.

On to the fun stuff, like an upside down mobo and general system install. I won't narrate too much here. I have an 8-way fan controller/temp monitor, I used four of those to monitor input and output temps from both rads. I'll go ahead and spoil the outcome, all four outputs read nearly identically (within 0.2 degrees Fahrenheit). I also used small bits of window/door insulation to seal gaps, but I doubt this really has much effect.





Next we have the completed loop. My logic works something like this: I wanted the gfx cards in parallel since they're very restrictive and aren't effected by flow as much as the radiators or cpu block. I added a second pump with the EK top for redundancy and added pressure. With the two gfx blocks in parallel they should be less restrictive than a single gfx block, but with all of the 90 degree elbows I wasn't sure of this. Since I was adding another radiator and a number of bends to my new setup, I wanted to up the pressure to get the best possible results.



As you can see in the above images, I've set the fans to intake from the top and rear and exhaust from the front. This is in an attempt to give the case positive pressure, with the top and rear intakes filtered the inside should stay fairly clean. The end result is below.



My final thoughts on the H620, it's a nice case but not worth water cooling in. If I take the top and front panels off to allow better airflow I get roughly a 5c drop in temps across the board. On the other hand, both panels cut down noise significantly. So I do have the option of removing them if I'm folding or otherwise putting a heavy load on the CPU. Gaming, the system temps stay reasonable, ~40-45c on the GPUs and no higher than mid 60s on the cpu (average cpu is much lower, in the 40's). Overall, I'm happy with it, but if I were to do it again I'd go with the Corsair Obsidion 750D. They're very similar cases, but the 750D would have been much simpler. When I started this build (i've been meaning to make this write-up for a while, sorry Dave), the 750D hadn't been released yet.
Dan
 
Nice build bob. What kind of tubing is that? Primochill Pro or Advanced LRT? Also are you using distilled water with what biocide? It seems to be clouding already.
 
It's actually a Xeon, E5-1660 or basically the same thing as a 4960x. No lighting. I've never been much for that, but I can be kinda boring...

I believe it's their advanced LRT. I does look a little cloudy, but it's not really. I think it's something to do with the flash. The tubing did get slightly more opaque when I ran their loop prep stuff, but it's looked exactly like that since. My old fittings had some residue that I couldn't clean off, so I figured I'd give that stuff a try. As a side note, it worked pretty well. I am just using distilled at the moment, with a silver plug by Monsoon. I want to test adding a surfactant (red line or royal purple) to see if that helps. I've always used redline water wetter in the past, partly because it really helps with bleeding.
Daniel
 
It's actually a Xeon, E5-1660 or basically the same thing as a 4960x. No lighting. I've never been much for that, but I can be kinda boring...

I believe it's their advanced LRT. I does look a little cloudy, but it's not really. I think it's something to do with the flash. The tubing did get slightly more opaque when I ran their loop prep stuff, but it's looked exactly like that since. My old fittings had some residue that I couldn't clean off, so I figured I'd give that stuff a try. As a side note, it worked pretty well. I am just using distilled at the moment, with a silver plug by Monsoon. I want to test adding a surfactant (red line or royal purple) to see if that helps. I've always used redline water wetter in the past, partly because it really helps with bleeding.
Daniel

Ah ok. Good choice in tubing though I would've passed on their prep stuff. I've heard it can cloud your tubing but by the looks of it it was mostly because of the flash. I have about 5 of those preps laying around. Probably throw them out.

As for the fittings they might be oxidization as I have the same issue and got sick and tired of scrubbing them with a toothbrush dipped in some distilled mixed with vinegar which didn't do anything. So I just threw them back in the loop.

Yeah distilled and silver, you can't go wrong with that. I am not too familiar with water wetter but have read posts lately of those saying not to use it but I am sure you being a vet surely know more about it as well.
 
Water wetter is bad to use with anything but distilled water. If there are minerals in the water, water wetter can precipitate out solids. I've never had this issue with distilled though. I'll do a temp comparison whenever I try it.
Dan
 
Water wetter is bad to use with anything but distilled water. If there are minerals in the water, water wetter can precipitate out solids. I've never had this issue with distilled though. I'll do a temp comparison whenever I try it.
Dan

I can tell you now that it won't really change anything. We've had plenty of people try it. It didn't help anyone's temps, but we did have people who had issues of it separating from the water and causing issues that way.
 
I can tell you now that it won't really change anything. We've had plenty of people try it. It didn't help anyone's temps, but we did have people who had issues of it separating from the water and causing issues that way.

I have noticed a differences with it before, though not specifically with temps. When I used to simply use a t-line as my res I always had a hell of a time getting the system to bleed. I'd start with just strait water, and it simply wouldn't bleed much even with the t-line (~2' of it) full. I'd add a cap full of water wetter, instant change in the water flow and the system would bleed in a few hours. Pretty remarkable change in flow characteristics, but it also clouded up my tubing somewhat. Purple Ice (royal purple) is supposed to be better in that regards, but it didn't have the same effect on bleeding.
Dan
 
That looks like a tough case to water cool in regards to ventilation. Not sure what they (NZXT) were thinking designing this case.
 
I have noticed a differences with it before, though not specifically with temps. When I used to simply use a t-line as my res I always had a hell of a time getting the system to bleed. I'd start with just strait water, and it simply wouldn't bleed much even with the t-line (~2' of it) full. I'd add a cap full of water wetter, instant change in the water flow and the system would bleed in a few hours. Pretty remarkable change in flow characteristics, but it also clouded up my tubing somewhat. Purple Ice (royal purple) is supposed to be better in that regards, but it didn't have the same effect on bleeding.
Dan

Your rig, do what you want, I'm just passing on what I've seen. As long as you go into it knowing the reasons behind your choices (and the sacrifices you're making for each choice), I feel I've done my job.
 
Your rig, do what you want, I'm just passing on what I've seen. As long as you go into it knowing the reasons behind your choices (and the sacrifices you're making for each choice), I feel I've done my job.

Absolutely. Not try to argue, just relating my own experiences. I haven't done it yet, and at this point I probably wont.
Daniel
 
That looks like a tough case to water cool in regards to ventilation. Not sure what they (NZXT) were thinking designing this case.

Not sure either, or why I bought it for that mater... With a lot of smaller companies like this, after a certain point of R&D they release the product even if it could be improved. This is, I think, a case in point. Look at the new H440. Better or equal in most ways. I think it's just an iterative evolution in this case.
Daniel
 
As you can see in the above images, I've set the fans to intake from the top and rear and exhaust from the front. This is in an attempt to give the case positive pressure, with the top and rear intakes filtered the inside should stay fairly clean. The end result is below.
Dan

I'd suggest reversing this. It's quite the opposite of how the air is going to want to flow. It may not be as significant as an air cooled case, but it could still negatively impact temps.
 
I'd suggest reversing this. It's quite the opposite of how the air is going to want to flow. It may not be as significant as an air cooled case, but it could still negatively impact temps.

This.

You're also pushing warmer air through the radiator the way you have it.
 
Yeah, lately I've been thinking about having both rads intake and have the rear exhaust. Not sure how that will impact flow, my guess is only slightly. The reason I have the top rad as an intake is to have direct airflow over the VRMs, as they get rather hot pushing upwards of 160-170W to the CPU. I could test the opposite setup though.
Dan
 
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