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- Sep 15, 2007
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- Small town Emlenton, PA
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'DownUnder' Build Thread - Déjà vu
- Thread starter Flat-6
- Start date
- Thread Starter
- #22
Again thank you for your help with the XT6, I must say it's the best controller out there.
Hope the Knee gets better, need more updates
Yeh the Aquaero does make short work of monitoring and controlling the loop independently of the PC - Once you get your head around it though...!
Knee is slowly healing... Still on sick leave at home at the moment. Went to the doc this morning for a review and he gave me another two weeks off for recovery as it is still swollen and sore.
Thanks for all the comments guys.
I'm almost up to the point where I need to purchase the motherboard but the model I'm after (Asus Formula VIII) is not quite available as yet Downunder - maybe next week. Probably go and grab a power supply this week so I can at least start to plan some of the main wiring runs. I already have an Aquaero 6XT so at least I can start wiring to and from that device.
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- Thread Starter
- #24
Connection between the mid mounted and lower pedestal radiators....
Due to the 60mm rad and a push/pull fan setup, space was limited here as the optional power supply bracket (not shown) just clears the fittings with only a few mm to spare.
Another complication was the fact that the mid rad is a 60mm variant while the pedestal rad is an 80mm unit (It was cheap...! - otherwise I would not have bothered and would have just stuck to 60mm variants) so the fitting conglomeration had to also incorporate an offset during it's transition from the mid to lower sections of the case. I think it worked out OK.
The secondary power supply cover which is normally a solid blank plate will be replaced with a vented cover to allow the rad fan directly facing the power supply to exhaust out through that path.
Due to the 60mm rad and a push/pull fan setup, space was limited here as the optional power supply bracket (not shown) just clears the fittings with only a few mm to spare.
Another complication was the fact that the mid rad is a 60mm variant while the pedestal rad is an 80mm unit (It was cheap...! - otherwise I would not have bothered and would have just stuck to 60mm variants) so the fitting conglomeration had to also incorporate an offset during it's transition from the mid to lower sections of the case. I think it worked out OK.
The secondary power supply cover which is normally a solid blank plate will be replaced with a vented cover to allow the rad fan directly facing the power supply to exhaust out through that path.
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- Thread Starter
- #25
Minor Build Update 20th Feb 2016:
Illumination of Rotameter
I decided from way back to illuminate the central rotameter feature in my build otherwise it would end up looking fairly dark and 'lost' inside the black case without some form of self illumination especially due to the illuminated reservoirs positioned on either side.
Only thing was that I was not sure how to go about it. I had a few ideas such as drilling holes in the plexiglass rotameter base and using 5mm leds etc (similar technique as utilised on some CPU blocks etc) but I was not all that keen on that idea.
I ended up making up a custom light fixture from a high powered LED which is simply attached to the base of the rotameter. This means that no modification is required to the Rotameter itself and the LED light can be simply removed/re-attached if required at any time.
The LED I chose is a 3W CREE LED (cool white) which I attached to a small heatsink via some thermal adhesive tape.
I actually drive the LED at only 1W drive levels (due to its extreme brightness @ 3W drive) but to also minimise heat dissipation which will ensure that it has a very long life. Maybe I should have hooked its heatsink up to my loop and water cooled it...
The LED is driven via a tiny switchmode LED driver circuit that runs off my PC's 12v rail.
I also attached a square reflector to the assembly as this helps with light spread but more importantly it allows me to run a small strip of double sided tape along its top lip outer perimeter which then allows me to simply stick the complete assembly to the base of the rotameter.
A bit of matt black paint on the outer surfaces of the reflector stops any stray light from escaping (reflector casing is originally a beige colour).
....and here is a test mockup with one of my spare rotameters simply sitting on the completed high powered LED assembly.
Photo was taken with no flash etc - just using the CREE LED to illuminate the rotameter.
Looks quite good as the white background on the meter scale portrays a sense that the complete rotameter is backlit...
Below is a real quick (read: crappy) pic of the illumination module at work inside the case.
Just a bit of fill flash used but I deliberately underexposed the shot to try and keep the other parts relatively dark while the rotameter is illuminated via its own light source. In person the rotameter really pops out now....!
Illumination of Rotameter
I decided from way back to illuminate the central rotameter feature in my build otherwise it would end up looking fairly dark and 'lost' inside the black case without some form of self illumination especially due to the illuminated reservoirs positioned on either side.
Only thing was that I was not sure how to go about it. I had a few ideas such as drilling holes in the plexiglass rotameter base and using 5mm leds etc (similar technique as utilised on some CPU blocks etc) but I was not all that keen on that idea.
I ended up making up a custom light fixture from a high powered LED which is simply attached to the base of the rotameter. This means that no modification is required to the Rotameter itself and the LED light can be simply removed/re-attached if required at any time.
The LED I chose is a 3W CREE LED (cool white) which I attached to a small heatsink via some thermal adhesive tape.
I actually drive the LED at only 1W drive levels (due to its extreme brightness @ 3W drive) but to also minimise heat dissipation which will ensure that it has a very long life. Maybe I should have hooked its heatsink up to my loop and water cooled it...
The LED is driven via a tiny switchmode LED driver circuit that runs off my PC's 12v rail.
I also attached a square reflector to the assembly as this helps with light spread but more importantly it allows me to run a small strip of double sided tape along its top lip outer perimeter which then allows me to simply stick the complete assembly to the base of the rotameter.
A bit of matt black paint on the outer surfaces of the reflector stops any stray light from escaping (reflector casing is originally a beige colour).
....and here is a test mockup with one of my spare rotameters simply sitting on the completed high powered LED assembly.
Photo was taken with no flash etc - just using the CREE LED to illuminate the rotameter.
Looks quite good as the white background on the meter scale portrays a sense that the complete rotameter is backlit...
Below is a real quick (read: crappy) pic of the illumination module at work inside the case.
Just a bit of fill flash used but I deliberately underexposed the shot to try and keep the other parts relatively dark while the rotameter is illuminated via its own light source. In person the rotameter really pops out now....!
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- Thread Starter
- #27
Update 4 March 2016 - Addition of Corsair AX1500i power supply
Finally received my power supply yesterday - so I threw that in today... Now to get started on the fun bit... wiring and sleeving...
A couple of pics............ as you all love pics apparently and for those that cannot read...
Note that the power supply sits on a Caselabs support bracket which supports the bottom of the power supply but then folds up around the rear of it.
This adds to the problem of limited airflow room between the rad fan positioned directly behind the power supply.
Due to the restricted space, I utilised a Caselabs optional vented rear cover-plate in this location so that the exhaust from this particular fan has a low resistance path for exiting hot air out of the case.
If you look really carefully you can just make out the interconnecting triple rotary Bitspower fittings which form the connection between the mid mounted rad and the lower pedestal rad. It was all a tight tolerance squeeze but everything fit pretty much perfectly in the end.
Another view from underneath the power supply - ie inside the pedestal. Here you can see a better view of the numerous triple rotaries interconnecting both rads.
Views from the front and main mobo side as it stands so far................
Finally received my power supply yesterday - so I threw that in today... Now to get started on the fun bit... wiring and sleeving...
A couple of pics............ as you all love pics apparently and for those that cannot read...
Note that the power supply sits on a Caselabs support bracket which supports the bottom of the power supply but then folds up around the rear of it.
This adds to the problem of limited airflow room between the rad fan positioned directly behind the power supply.
Due to the restricted space, I utilised a Caselabs optional vented rear cover-plate in this location so that the exhaust from this particular fan has a low resistance path for exiting hot air out of the case.
If you look really carefully you can just make out the interconnecting triple rotary Bitspower fittings which form the connection between the mid mounted rad and the lower pedestal rad. It was all a tight tolerance squeeze but everything fit pretty much perfectly in the end.
Another view from underneath the power supply - ie inside the pedestal. Here you can see a better view of the numerous triple rotaries interconnecting both rads.
Views from the front and main mobo side as it stands so far................
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- Thread Starter
- #30
It's funny because when I originally started the project I thought 'wow' this will be a big case etc - however when I compare it to my 900D - It's only just a tad taller....
I guess owning a 900D now for around 1.5 years gets you used to having a tall tower style case around the house so they tend to look 'normal' now... A bit like large screen TV's - you get used to the large screens after a while and everything else then starts to look way small......
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- Thread Starter
- #31
For those that are not familiar with Demciflex filters you will note that there is a 140mm intake dust filter fitted to my Corsair power supply in the earlier pics above.
I'm very mindful of dust in PC builds so from day one I had planned to utilise Demciflex filters on all the intake panels. These filters work really well and while they do not stop 100% of the dust they only let very fine particles through which makes it real easy to clean out the rig when required. I don't know how others run without any form of filtering as unless your PC sits in a dust free room, dust can build up real quick.
While the power supply intake filter is a standard 140mm sized fan filter, I also ordered a custom sized set of filters direct from Demciflex - I had these manufactured/sized so that they would specifically fit inside the covers of the SMA8. The magnetic strip and their respective frames are not visible from outside the case and are in effect totally hidden from view. This results in a more professional look as compared to mounting the filters on the outside.
Here is a look at the inside face of one of the SMA8's side covers.
Magnetic strip which the filter frame magnetically sticks to is first stuck on to the inside of the side panel - It is supplied with peel & stick adhesive applied on its opposing side. Remember that Caselabs cases are all aluminium so the magnetic strip is required otherwise the frame of the filter has nothing to magnetically attract itself to
Filter is then simply dropped on top and its magnetised frame attracts itself to the original magnet strip we stuck on above - Easy as....! This facilitates quick & easy removal/replacement of the filter medium for cleaning etc.
I'm very mindful of dust in PC builds so from day one I had planned to utilise Demciflex filters on all the intake panels. These filters work really well and while they do not stop 100% of the dust they only let very fine particles through which makes it real easy to clean out the rig when required. I don't know how others run without any form of filtering as unless your PC sits in a dust free room, dust can build up real quick.
While the power supply intake filter is a standard 140mm sized fan filter, I also ordered a custom sized set of filters direct from Demciflex - I had these manufactured/sized so that they would specifically fit inside the covers of the SMA8. The magnetic strip and their respective frames are not visible from outside the case and are in effect totally hidden from view. This results in a more professional look as compared to mounting the filters on the outside.
Here is a look at the inside face of one of the SMA8's side covers.
Magnetic strip which the filter frame magnetically sticks to is first stuck on to the inside of the side panel - It is supplied with peel & stick adhesive applied on its opposing side. Remember that Caselabs cases are all aluminium so the magnetic strip is required otherwise the frame of the filter has nothing to magnetically attract itself to
Filter is then simply dropped on top and its magnetised frame attracts itself to the original magnet strip we stuck on above - Easy as....! This facilitates quick & easy removal/replacement of the filter medium for cleaning etc.
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Nice info Flat-6. I'll have to look them up. Also reminded me of a nightmare I had last year 2 years ago. (Damn time flies]
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/...d-new-parts)?p=7661566&viewfull=1#post7661566
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/...d-new-parts)?p=7661566&viewfull=1#post7661566
- Thread Starter
- #33
LOL - Ye Olde Dust build up....
Although check this link out that some one on a Downunder forum posted the other day...
Although check this link out that some one on a Downunder forum posted the other day...
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- Thread Starter
- #34
So yesterday evening I wanted to knock up a few Molex custom length 4 pin extensions for the build. However I only had white housings available and no local electronics/PC store keep black housings....!
What to do..?
OK - An old trick I use in my other hobby - RC Heli flying.... Lets perform some dying of nylon based components (I'm sure some of you guys have done this or something similar before anyway).
An assortment of white 4 Pin Molex + some RIT clothes dye.
While I was at it I thought I'd also dye a spare Swiftech MCP35X2 top that I have lying around - You can actually purchase these in black, however all the tops I own (I have a number of them) are all white so I thought I'd add a black one to my spares (These are great tops BTW - and make for a powerful & compact DDC pump combo).
OK - Add all the items into a pot and boil/simmer for around 30 minutes and the result is... 'Black as the Ace of Spades'
What to do..?
OK - An old trick I use in my other hobby - RC Heli flying.... Lets perform some dying of nylon based components (I'm sure some of you guys have done this or something similar before anyway).
An assortment of white 4 Pin Molex + some RIT clothes dye.
While I was at it I thought I'd also dye a spare Swiftech MCP35X2 top that I have lying around - You can actually purchase these in black, however all the tops I own (I have a number of them) are all white so I thought I'd add a black one to my spares (These are great tops BTW - and make for a powerful & compact DDC pump combo).
OK - Add all the items into a pot and boil/simmer for around 30 minutes and the result is... 'Black as the Ace of Spades'
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- Thread Starter
- #35
Just to let you all know that I haven't been slacking off on the build.....
Have the majority of ancillary wiring completed, still requires a couple more runs but still waiting on sleeving!
Basically all my Aquaero related looms are done as well as incorporating a USB2 hub for the MPS devices.
Will tidy it a lot further when finalising the complete wiring loom.
If you take a closer look at the cooling loop you will notice that my build now features two additional drain valves. I decided to add these extra valves so that I can drain two sections of the loop which will not fully drain unless the case is rotated upside down - Due to the weight/size of the case I decided on adding some convenience to the overall draining process.
The one on the left will allow me to fully drain the inlet section of tubing which is connected to the reservoir assembly and the one on the right will allow me to fully drain the lower tubing run from the GPU's and to the rotameter (handy when it comes time to remove/replace GPU's etc).
Both these sections contain an 'uphill' run for the coolant so I will invariably end up with a reasonable amount of coolant stuck in there. The addition of drain valves at these critical points will negate this issue.
Have the majority of ancillary wiring completed, still requires a couple more runs but still waiting on sleeving!
Basically all my Aquaero related looms are done as well as incorporating a USB2 hub for the MPS devices.
Will tidy it a lot further when finalising the complete wiring loom.
If you take a closer look at the cooling loop you will notice that my build now features two additional drain valves. I decided to add these extra valves so that I can drain two sections of the loop which will not fully drain unless the case is rotated upside down - Due to the weight/size of the case I decided on adding some convenience to the overall draining process.
The one on the left will allow me to fully drain the inlet section of tubing which is connected to the reservoir assembly and the one on the right will allow me to fully drain the lower tubing run from the GPU's and to the rotameter (handy when it comes time to remove/replace GPU's etc).
Both these sections contain an 'uphill' run for the coolant so I will invariably end up with a reasonable amount of coolant stuck in there. The addition of drain valves at these critical points will negate this issue.
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- Thread Starter
- #36
Also spent some time testing the mobo the other day so that was now ready for installation.
It allowed me to run my tubing around the CPU/VRM and first GPU (EVGA 980Ti Classy).
Unfortunately there is a hold up on the second GPU's backplate and waterblock so I cannot complete the loop as yet...
Waiting on EK to knock up a few more and these will not be ready until approx. the 1st of April... So more waiting on parts...
Closeup of Forumula's VRM plumbing <> CPU <> GPU
.......and one more, from a bit further out....
It allowed me to run my tubing around the CPU/VRM and first GPU (EVGA 980Ti Classy).
Unfortunately there is a hold up on the second GPU's backplate and waterblock so I cannot complete the loop as yet...
Waiting on EK to knock up a few more and these will not be ready until approx. the 1st of April... So more waiting on parts...
Closeup of Forumula's VRM plumbing <> CPU <> GPU
.......and one more, from a bit further out....
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- Joined
- May 22, 2011
- Location
- USA
Very nice Flat. Its coming along very nicely.
A couple questions I have. Will you be adding another GPU for SLI and do you need the power to the NZXT USB hub or can it run without the molex power to it?
A couple questions I have. Will you be adding another GPU for SLI and do you need the power to the NZXT USB hub or can it run without the molex power to it?
- Thread Starter
- #38
Thanks Jack...
Yes a second GPU is right here sitting in its box. I ordered a waterblock and backplate for it direct from EK last week however they are out of stock of the backplates. They are producing more in a few days time and they state that they will be available on or around the 1st of April. Hopefully my order will ship out soon after that date.
Once that gear arrives I can complete the loop - The GPU tubing will run down turn right and then do a LH turn and run straight to the back mobo panel where the pass-through is fitted (pictured with a black Bitspower stop fitting in the above pics). The idea is to mimic/follow the existing tubing run which is directly below and therefore keep some symmetry.
The NZXT USB2 hub requires power - It comes with a short lead and the standard 4 pin Molex setup. I ended up making a longer lead for it and sleeving it etc.
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