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Finally, first water cooling build (with pics)

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Excellent. Just started bleeding the loop so while it's doing that I can start creating a mount for the heatsink. If anyone has some easy, creative ideas, feel free to share :)
 
50ml per 1000 liters? Your loop only holds ~1 liter so a couple of drops should be plenty.

And you can add the iodine later, just put 4 drops (for Betadine/povidone-iodine) or 8 drops of "regular" iodine into your res.


Nice job on mounting the MCW60 ... :thup:
 
if you know how i would lap the celeron heat sink for a couple of degrees cooler.

I was thinking the exact same thing:). It has some wierd layer of foil stuck on so I'm going to lap it to get it off and get rid of the layer of paint.

Nice job on mounting the MCW60 ... :thup:

Thanks. I don't mind if I can't overclock it further than I already have but it will be worth the huge noise reduction :D
 
I was thinking the exact same thing:). It has some wierd layer of foil stuck on so I'm going to lap it to get it off and get rid of the layer of paint.

thats the thermal pad and should peel right off, if you can't get it started use a razor blade, but be careful not to gouge the middle of the heatsink. then lap it to get rid of the layer of paint like you said.


nice job on the modded block bracket, i'm just wondering though how well does it press down on the gpu? also if you still have the original heatsink for the card, maybe cut the part that covers the gpu and then you can have the same cooling, maybe better since the gpu isn't adding heat. hell if you can get the water block to touch the original you might even get a full water block effect.
 
Antifreeze is generally frowned upon as an additive. Use something else, like Water Wetter
I don't know where you got your info but Water Wetter was thrown out years ago. Thats pretty much the only thing thats agreed upon with additives. Personally... I Prefer Antifreeze. Its cheap, and its effective. Course, its only for corrosion, you need a biocide agent for preventing growth.

The Only other thing thats agreed upon is if your using a closed loop, spend the $.50 on distilled water.
 
Just a very quick update. I finished leak testing so I started to reassemble the PC yesterday evening, it took me 4 hours to get everything into my small case. I was so tired and needed to up early for work I didn't even get a chance to switch it on. Oh well, more fun awaits when I get home in another 6 hours. Will have a full update and finished pics then.
 
Switched the whole system on when I got home and went straight for the BIOS to check temps. I found the CPU temp was at 40°C so I restarted and booted into windows and checked Core Temp. The cores were roughly 40°C and when I started Orthos the temps were at 60°C in 6 seconds; would have been higher but I stopped it. So I shut down and took the block off. I saw that the AS5 hadn't spread that much at all. I cleaned it off and re-applyed the compound, this time remembering to twist the block a bit each way to help spread the AS5. When I booted up again same thing, high temps.

Looking at the block it seems to be fairly flat and the IHS seems to be flat as well as when I took off my XP-120, which is lapped, the compound had spread very well. Ideas anyone?
 
Is your pump on? Check that first, if water's moving you should have lower temps than that in BIOS regardless of if your fans are spinning or not. The pump should be giving off vibrations, should be able to hear it.
 
The screws on the Apogee are tight? Spacers are flush to the MB and the Apogee is flush to the spacers?


Did you take the Apogee apart after you got it? If so, did you get it back together the right direction ...?
 
Here's the big update I promised; it would have been here yesterday except my internet decided to break while I was taking pictures :mad::mad::mad:

First off, I sorted the temperature issue. Instead of the usual problem of too much AS5 I didn't put enough on :bang head

dscf1192if0.jpg


Reseated the block with a new application of AS5 and my highest temp on either core using Orthos was 36°C and that was overclocked to 2.616GHz at 1.325V

So as promised the finished pics:

dscf1196oj5.jpg


dscf1199nq4.jpg


dscf1200le3.jpg


I started overclocking some more and I have reached 2.7GHz with temps at 38-40°C.

nice job on the modded block bracket, i'm just wondering though how well does it press down on the gpu? also if you still have the original heatsink for the card, maybe cut the part that covers the gpu and then you can have the same cooling, maybe better since the gpu isn't adding heat. hell if you can get the water block to touch the original you might even get a full water block effect.

I'm still doing a little tweaking on the mount of the water block on the card. I had to remove the longest bracket and the one opisite it as they could not be securely attached. At the moment I'm using a 2 hole mount. The full water block effect would be nice but I want to keep the stock cooler in one piece incase my MSI board holds back my overclocking and I sell them both to get a DFI board. :)
 
Thanks, I'm very happy with the temps. It makes it all worth while. I'm hoping my CPU will clock as well as some of the other LCB9E cpu's. The biggest worry is my mobo.
 
True, but a few weeks ago i tried booting at 250 with the CPU multi set to 6 and it wouldn't post. But we'll see what happens when I get home and start clocking higher.
 
nice temps, personally im glad the gpu mount worked, i was a little skeptical!

lol, I didn't know if it was even going to work 100%. If it hadn't worked I was going to just leave the block hanging in the case until my next upgrade, which may be sooner than I think :beer:
 
The highest it would boot at was 235 but it wasn't very stable. On a restart it wouldn't post so it would requirer a push of the reset button.
 
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