first time w/cing need help!

[Cyrix_2k]

The dual core will work fine...

 

[Vince1990uk]

So you found a generic core that will fit 2x 120mm's per side? Use that then.

I don't know how the delta's sound... So I can't give any advice on them.

Get the MCP600. It will kick the L30's *** (more head), plus it'll prob be more reliable. Anyway, while you may not be bothered by noise, wouldn't it be nice to have a quiet rig that would outperform your noisy one?

Thanks, I'll use the generic core and get the MCP600. Yes, It would be nice to have a quiet rig!

This rad or something similar would be the one yes/no? http://store.over-clock.com/Generic.html

That's the one (same supplier also)!!!

Thanks to everyone who's helped me, I really appeciate it.

Also where can I get a T-Line?

 

[rogerdugans]

Also where can I get a T-Line?

Hardware/plumbing supply store.

All you need is a "Tee" fitting of the proper size and some more tubing-

Locate where you want the T-Line to be located and put the Tee fitting there with straight section of the piece in the line.
Add some tube to the fitting that sticks out- 3 inches or so is enough, but more makes filling/bleeding easier. I generally use 6 to 12 inches...usually.
Use something to cap the end once the system is fully bled- a pen cap may be a good fit, or you can make a fancy cap as some do; anything that will plug the end of the tube is fine.

 

[Cyrix_2k]

Hardware/plumbing supply store.

All you need is a "Tee" fitting of the proper size and some more tubing-

Locate where you want the T-Line to be located and put the Tee fitting there with straight section of the piece in the line.
Add some tube to the fitting that sticks out- 3 inches or so is enough, but more makes filling/bleeding easier. I generally use 6 to 12 inches...usually.
Use something to cap the end once the system is fully bled- a pen cap may be a good fit, or you can make a fancy cap as some do; anything that will plug the end of the tube is fine.

I have a 3ft+ T-line on my rig. Makes it VERY easy to fill and bleed. The cap I use is a test tube from an old chemistry set...

 

[pauldenton]

Start with steam-distilled, UV treated water (UV treated may take some looking).

sadly steam distilled is impossible to source here in the UK....

our only option is de-ionised (which is way cheaper to produce by reverse osmosis)

 

[Vince1990uk]

Hardware/plumbing supply store.

All you need is a "Tee" fitting of the proper size and some more tubing-

Locate where you want the T-Line to be located and put the Tee fitting there with straight section of the piece in the line.
Add some tube to the fitting that sticks out- 3 inches or so is enough, but more makes filling/bleeding easier. I generally use 6 to 12 inches...usually.
Use something to cap the end once the system is fully bled- a pen cap may be a good fit, or you can make a fancy cap as some do; anything that will plug the end of the tube is fine.

Thanks for explaning that!

our only option is de-ionised

I'm sure I read something bad about de-ionised water...I don't remember where though???

 

[RedViper]

Deionized water supposedly breaks down the metal in your blocks as it tries to reionize itself.

Pauld, that's amazing. Why no distilled water in the UK? I know you guys can't own pit-bulls, but this is a surprise.

 

[Cyrix_2k]

I'd use normal Reverse Osmosis water over de-ionized anyday. Just make sure you have your loop leak free for 24 hours before you give power to anything...

(If you happen to be like me and can't wait to try out you computer with your new water-cooler and skip the 24 hours leak-free thing, then atleast put some plastic over top of you vid-card and some paper towels over the plastic... I had my rig up and running 2 and a half hours after I recieved the box with my parts. The first time I turned the pump on, I leaked water all over my mobo and vid card. I used a hair-dryer to dry it off and went ahead and turned the computer on and it worked. Best part was that that the intake on the pump and both barbs on my heater-core were dripping water. Can you say "impatient" and "very dumb"?)

 

[RedViper]

I'd use normal Reverse Osmosis water over de-ionized anyday. Just make sure you have your loop leak free for 24 hours before you give power to anything...

(If you happen to be like me and can't wait to try out you computer with your new water-cooler and skip the 24 hours leak-free thing, then atleast put some plastic over top of you vid-card and some paper towels over the plastic... I had my rig up and running 2 and a half hours after I recieved the box with my parts. The first time I turned the pump on, I leaked water all over my mobo and vid card. I used a hair-dryer to dry it off and went ahead and turned the computer on and it worked. Best part was that that the intake on the pump and both barbs on my heater-core were dripping water. Can you say "impatient" and "very dumb"?)

I seem to have been VERY lucky with my first try at WCing. I was so paranoid that I assembled everything, powered by a jumberd PSU, by the sink and let in run for 72-hours. No leaks. I disassmbled the loop, slapped it in my case and ran it for another 24-hours without power the system. Still no leaks. I've been running hard for 9-days. Still no leaks.

 

[Cyrix_2k]

I seem to have been VERY lucky with my first try at WCing. I was so paranoid that I assembled everything, powered by a jumberd PSU, by the sink and let in run for 72-hours. No leaks. I disassmbled the loop, slapped it in my case and ran it for another 24-hours without power the system. Still no leaks. I've been running hard for 9-days. Still no leaks.

Well if it doesn't leak to start with, you shouldn't have anything to worry about, unless you touch something. And I'd say you were VERY lucky not to have any leaks.

 

[RedViper]

Well if it doesn't leak to start with, you shouldn't have anything to worry about, unless you touch something. And I'd say you were VERY lucky not to have any leaks.

I've got that "feeling" though. Like I'm going to pay hard sometime, soon.

 

[Vince1990uk]

sadly steam distilled is impossible to source here in the UK....

our only option is de-ionised (which is way cheaper to produce by reverse osmosis)

My dad says he has some steam distilled water. Aparently you can get it from hardware shops...

I'd use normal Reverse Osmosis water over de-ionized anyday. Just make sure you have your loop leak free for 24 hours before you give power to anything...

(If you happen to be like me and can't wait to try out you computer with your new water-cooler and skip the 24 hours leak-free thing, then atleast put some plastic over top of you vid-card and some paper towels over the plastic... I had my rig up and running 2 and a half hours after I recieved the box with my parts. The first time I turned the pump on, I leaked water all over my mobo and vid card. I used a hair-dryer to dry it off and went ahead and turned the computer on and it worked. Best part was that that the intake on the pump and both barbs on my heater-core were dripping water. Can you say "impatient" and "very dumb"?)

What is "Reverse Osmosis"? What about Inertx PF-5080? I don't know where to buy it, but it's electrically non-conductive so it can't damage anything if it leaks (accounts for £58 of the price of the Koolance Exos systems it's included with, 1kg of the stuff is included)

Usually I'm quite impatient, but when a £1000+ computer is involved...I'll wait as long as it takes!!!

www.over-clock.co.uk
Waterblock: D-Tek LRWW AMD Poly Top (£42.30) / D-Tek A64 Adapter Bracket (£12.91) = £55.21
Heat Core: The HeaterCore Dual 2x120mm 1/2” (generic) = £38.76
Tubing: 1/2" ID DangerDen ClearFlex 60 Tubing (10ft.) = £15.86
Fans: Delta 120mm fan (x4) = £46.96
Thermal Compound: Artic Silver 5 (25g) = £5.29
Additive: Redline Water Wetter = £5.86

www.overclock.co.uk
Pump: Swiftech MCP600-02 = £54.34

What are the Eheim pumps like (1250 and 1260)? Just out of interest.

http://store.over-clock.com/CustomBuilt_Kits.html - this could be helpful (hoseclips and barbs included).

 

[slater3333uk]

Looks like your getting on ok

The eheims are not as good as the MCP600

Reverse osmosis is osmosis backwards hehe PF-5080 is a kind of very expencive coolant which wont kill your hardware if you have a leak. If you dont have a leak you dont need it (£58 for 500ml if im not mistaken, uber expencive!)

Paul is right distilled water is HARD to source but not impossible Deionised is fine.

good luck

slater..

 

[pauldenton]

Pauld, that's amazing. Why no distilled water in the UK? I know you guys can't own pit-bulls, but this is a surprise.

it's just not economic to produce because reverse osmosis is much cheaper - australia is the same i believe...

it's possible that it is a result of the potential market being smaller since it is illegal to sell distilled water for human consumption here (there is a minimum calcium level for bottled drinking water in the UK)

 

[Cyrix_2k]

Reverse Osmosis (RO) is water that passed through a special membrane... We have an RO
system in my house for our drinking water.

Nice list of parts BTW, you're going to want to get a fan controller...

 

[RedViper]

it's just not economic to produce because reverse osmosis is much cheaper - australia is the same i believe...

it's possible that it is a result of the potential market being smaller since it is illegal to sell distilled water for human consumption here (there is a minimum calcium level for bottled drinking water in the UK)

Interesting. Thanks for the reply.