First water cooling build : Feedback & Advice Appreciated

[Conumdrum]

You buy screws long enough, a good bolt cutter or a screw cutter, and a die to redo the end of the screws. I got a tap too to make sure the rad holes were good.

Gavanic corrosion on screws? what???? Forget that concept. ??????


Forget the issue with gal cor on such stuff and Tpaste. Not an issue. It's only the water channels. Lots of this is learned info, you ain't read enuff yet.

Anything is removable. A drill to remove rivets etc works.

Your Artic Silver is it AS5? Outdated paste for sure.

 

[ashnc]

Yes it is AS5 , thinking about going to indigo xtreme , however before I make that decision I am wondering if anyone has experience using this because if I mess up the first time applying it I heard it is not removable like a paste and considering relative price comparisions.I am wondering if its just hype or is it actually worth the investment.

 

[Conumdrum]

Well it's the best stuff. Kinda hard to get right. Myself I have seen no reason. A fat tube of good paste is all you and 99% of us need. I have read some don't get either kit (just 2) in the box right at times. Kinda expensive for that chance. It's easily removable, just different, more complicated.

Use normal paste to get the rig and running, and then if you 'need' (which you probably won't) that last 2-3C maybe then give it a try.

For your first build keep it simple, no surprises is best.

Get MX 4 paste for the build or another good paste. AS5 is out of date by a few C for sure.

 

[azanimefan]

It's been roughly 7 months since I first wrote this , now that finals are over and both the hydrocopper gtx 680 ( finally in stock and purchased this bundle) and airplex revolution ( ordered in August didn't receive till roughly early November) are in I can resume this build. Realizing there is no possible way to fit this large radiator into the nzxt phantom I have decided to buy a white nzxt switch 810 ( i have seen my radiator in this case in another build log , it should work this time). I have also deciding on 1/2 ID , 3/4 OD Masterkleer Clear UV blue tubing with compression fittings for the water block . After further review I have decided to go with 3 gentle typhoon 2150rpm instead of the 3 3000's.

I am now here to ask the following questions :

On fan to radiator mounting how long should the screws be if my rad is 63mm thick and fans are 25mm? Since this is a copper rad and I am worried about galvanic corrosion would it be ok to go with stainless steel screws or do I need brass or copper ones.?


Also on the topic of galvanic corrosion as I will have to remove my xigmatek loki heatsink and replace with EK Supremacy Copper Plexi heat block I will need thermal paste , however I have read the artic silver that I currently have contains trace amounts of aluminum , what is a good copper safe thermal paste I can use in its place?

Does anyone know if the hot swap bay is removable in the case I decide to switch reserviors to the ek bay spin reservoir to replace it with the optical drive , ( I will likely have to remove the top drive bay to fit this radiator in )?

ok... first of all galvanic corrosion only affects parts touching the liquid. It does not affect parts touching the parts that touch the liquid.

SO - make sure your water-blocks and radiator are the same metal (copper in this case, so you're good there), make sure there any metal fittings which water will run through are copper, and you'll be good to go. The aluminum content of your thermal paste, and the screws used to screw your radiator into your case don't matter at all.

not a fan of you going for compression fittings... always been a fan of hose clamps... but that's mostly personal preference i'm sure.