tutorial for flame polishing = scrap lexan....lol.
I'm not sure this sort of thing can be taught. Basically you take a butane torch and melt the plastic. How well it works depends entirely on the composition of the plastic, and the temperature of the torch.
as I said, just grab a scrap piece of plastic and go at it. See what works and what doesn't. What you do is you take a scrap piece, scratch the hell out of it with sandpaper and a nail (for light and deep scratches) and then take the torch to it. You don't want it close enough to burn it or leave a mark....you just want to melt the plastic a bit so it clears up and fills in the scratches. Well, on second thought, since you're just trying to smooth edges, you might just want to make a rough, jagged cut on the scrap lexan and try to smooth it out.
Just keep practicing, i'm sure you'll get it eventually. Just be careful.....you are working with a CHEMICAL (the plastic) and it emits fumes when you burn it....wear a properly rated mask...painters mask or something. That, and you are working with a butane torch.....butane torch = teh hot.
Also what is a decent bit to use on the dremel to cut lexan/plexi? I Saw someone reccomended the fiberglass cutoff wheel, but wouldn't that melt the plastic?
Supposedly, you're supposed to put the dremel at a low enough speed where it won't melt the plastic. But, I haven't been able to do that yet without it going so slow that it either stops when it touches the plastic, or it takes FOREVER to cut.
Melting shouldn't be a huge concern.....it's not as bad as you think. If you have a toothed blade, then the melted plastic will start to gum it up. But if you use a cut-off wheel, then you will have no problems with a gummed up tool.
Of course, I've never tried to cut plastic at top speed....heh. I set it around the middle range.....10k-15k rpm, if you need specifics (actually I don't know what rpm its at....in the middle somewhere, heh).
