• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

360mm Rad With End Cap Ports

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

Celeron_Phreak

Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2003
I'm looking for a 360 rad that has end cap ports on both ends, or at least one on the opposite end of the inlet and outlet. Not necessarily a cross-flow radiator.

I currently run an Alphacool NexXxos UT60, 360mm, for my lower radiator that sits on the bottom of the case. I specifically chose this radiator because it has a single port on the end cap, opposite of the inlet and outlet ports, and I use this port for my loop drain valve, as it is the lowest point in the loop.

Does anyone know of any alternatives to Alphacool in regards to this type of setup? This week I spent tracking down a leak after loop maintenance, and it turned out to be cracks around one of the G1/4 ports, which I use as an outlet. I managed to repair it by soldering around the port thread insert, but the main problem is that this radiator has no reinforcement around the G1/4 ports, or no sturdy thread insert with a beefy collar. I like what EK and XSPC do with their heavy duty G1/4 thread inserts in their radiators, but I haven't been able to find anything with the port configuration I need.

As a DIY alternative, how much damage do I risk doing if I drill a hole in an end cap and braze a brass nut, or G1/4 insert (if available)?
 
How hard are you screwing in the plugs? Don't use pliers or anything like that if you are.

Not a chance in hell I'd use an ek product, especially these days. All my radiators are Alphacool so I'd buy a new Alphacool or repair the existing. Since it sounds like you fixed it already I'd leave it alone personally.

Adding the nut should be easy enough though. Not much different than when we would sweat on our barbs back in heater core days. My main concern would be pushing too hard while drilling and having the bit push into the core. I would drill from the side or preferably the bottom so as much of the metal shards fall out of the radiator versus going in. Try to vacuum and flush it out real good after drilling. Sand and prep the radiator then sweat the nut on. Done.
 
How hard are you screwing in the plugs? Don't use pliers or anything like that if you are.

Not a chance in hell I'd use an ek product, especially these days. All my radiators are Alphacool so I'd buy a new Alphacool or repair the existing. Since it sounds like you fixed it already I'd leave it alone personally.

Adding the nut should be easy enough though. Not much different than when we would sweat on our barbs back in heater core days. My main concern would be pushing too hard while drilling and having the bit push into the core. I would drill from the side or preferably the bottom so as much of the metal shards fall out of the radiator versus going in. Try to vacuum and flush it out real good after drilling. Sand and prep the radiator then sweat the nut on. Done.

I only hand tighten the fittings to snug, then almost a1/4 turn to compress the o-ring. I think the micro-fractures I experienced are from sideways movement/rocking of the fitting during the previous loop configuration. I had noticed signs of a small leak around that fitting 10 months after the loop was assembled. Since repairing the leak, I have redesigned how that tube connects to prevent any rocking of the fitting in the radiator threads, moving forward.

I plan to use the radiator in it's repaired state, I'm just planning ahead of time to have another radiator ready to swap out if it decides to hate itself and fail again (unlikely).

It's been over a decade since I drilled into a radiator/heater core to add a barb. I'll experiment and swiss cheese the EK radiator I have that I have no use for. I really appreciate the reminder of this. :D
 
Check out a Hardwarelabs SR2, it may have a port in a position you can use.
 
Check out a Hardwarelabs SR2, it may have a port in a position you can use.
Just checked them out, and they have some great multi-port radiators, very versatile. Not quite what I am looking for, but I will be keeping tabs on them for future loop configurations.

Check Coolgate rads. I have 2 480mm's and they have the xtra port on the bottom opposite from the main ports up top.


Maybe?
I can't say I've hard of Coolgate before. Their X-Flow G2 has a port on the end like I'm needing, but I can't find any pictures of the other end of their standard G2 to see if those also have the single port on the end. Its not clear what the port arrangement is on the tank cap end, but if it has ports on both sides of the tank, it might just work.


This is the arrangement I use for the lower radiator:

Single end cap port is at the lowest point, and used as a drain.

20240514_203319.jpg

In and out both going up at the rear of the case.

20240514_203331.jpg
 
Looks like the repair attempt didn't last very long, I'm thinking the crack must have spread more around the threaded insert. This is after being assembled for about 10 days. The wetness is more like a molasses texture, not sure what, maybe some flux that didn't get flushed out from around the fitting?

20240520_161517.jpg

Regardless, I have the XSPC 360 rad prepped with a drain port addition, ready to go. The fittings on it seem more robust.
20240520_180844.jpg
20240520_180932.jpg
 
If you want to repair that rad, then use JB Weld. I've been using it for over 20 years. I do have an xtra 480mm rad if you're interested. I can post a pic of the end port.
 
If you want to repair that rad, then use JB Weld. I've been using it for over 20 years. I do have an xtra 480mm rad if you're interested. I can post a pic of the end port.
I appreciate the offer, but I'll pass for now. I'm still trying to decide if it is worth saving, just from the lack of flange around the G1/4 inserts.

The XSPC radiator I posted pictures of didn't end up working, just because of how the vertical GPU bracket sits, and where that inside port sits in relation to the motherboard. The ports are just too far apart to use the 90 degree adapters needed to clear the vertical mount bracket. In the end, I ended up modifying the EKWB XE 360 in the same way, with the addition of the drain port at the end.

This will work for now, I suppose, until I get tired of the O11 Dynamic XL, or we end up getting a house, depending on which happens first. The next case is a Thermaltake Core X71, which at that time I plan to move away from hard line tubing and add quick disconnects for the blocks to ease maintenance.
 
Back