See if you can find some 60/40 solder, that's lead (pb) and tin (Sn). Flux core is best, 0.022" (whatever that is in metic. Thin, in any case).
That's far easier to work with than the modern RoHS compliant stuff like you have.
A lead-free alloy solder containing a non-corrosive flux
Improved conductivity and flow
Lower melting point
This solder is 4% silver, 95.5% tin and 0.5% copper. We recommend this solder for use with the iron-clad and nickel-clad bits supplied with our soldering irons. Solder is 1mm diameter and available in tubes (approximately 17g) and 100g rolls. The high silver content improves the conductivity of the solder and lowers the melting point, improving the flow.
liquid electrical tape works good to for holding that stuff inplace, also comes off well if you go to remove/move stuff.
I would definitely recommend using leaded solder for this stuff. Much lower melting temp makes it easier to work with. Some of the components are temp sensitive at the types of temperatures that lead free solder just starts to be come workable. Also it doesn't hurt to have some brush on or liquid clean free flux. You can use the stuff the requires cleaning afterwards but they go through a heat range that they become a contact inhibitor near the end of effetive heat range. Plus its a pain in the butt to clean off.
The solder im using right now is horrible stuff, the tinning stuff i have makes a better solder lol!
I have a clean free flux pen, but it seems to be a little agressive when solder gets touched on the area i have put the flux on.
End up with scorch marks around.
I'm using a 15w iron.
I'm going to look to see if i can get lead solder form anywhere.
For some reason when having both cards plugged in at same time the second card will run at 1.1 volt until you put it under load in the OS and then its within 0.06 of a volt with the other card.... maybe this is what happens with the RIVE board....
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