• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Heatsink corroded BADLY after washing

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

lenix

Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2005
Hello,

In attempt of cleaning my IFX-14, I think I messed it up. My heatsink got badly corroded (at least that's what I think it is) after I washed it thoroughly with water and washing detergent and left it to dry overnight.

Pics: (white stuff is ugly ;<)
20131123_190921.jpg
20131123_190926.jpg
20131123_190935.jpg

I guess it's time to say goodbye to the IFX-14 after 4 years of service. Can anyone confirm that the white stuff is actually corrosion? Could I do anything about it?

Thanks,
 
It looks like to coating or finish is coming off. Is it chrome something like that? what kinda washing detergent did you use?
 
I would get a metal file thin enough to fit between the fins, and remove all the oxidation on the surface. The heatsink will still perform, unless its the look that bothers you.
 
@tungureanu, I flushed it with the hose outside, it looked fine for a while but after it fully dried the white stuff was very clear.

@WrkBoot, It's pure aluminum. I used some persil with warm water.

@noxqzs, The white stuff is kinda impossible to remove, even the stuff that I can reach with my hand.. I tried alcohol and it never comes off. It just goes a bit lighter in color if I scrub it real good. And yeah the heatsink will probably still perform, but putting it right back into my case just doesn't feel right, it's not a looks thing.. more like corroded aluminum mounted to my motherboard -_-

edit: Someone on another forum suggested that this is galvanic corrosion, no way to recover it.
 
I have the same thing happen when I wash my heatsinks if I let them air dry. It's just a residue left behind from the drying process due to impurities in the water itself.

When washing a heastink you want to always make sure the blow all of the water off of it with an air compressor, then you won't have any deposits left behind from the impurities (or at least very little).

I'd let it soak in water for say a half hour, then blow it dry with an air compressor (if you have one). That method usually gets rid of most of that stuff for me.
 
I have the same thing happen when I wash my heatsinks if I let them air dry. It's just a residue left behind from the drying process due to impurities in the water itself.

When washing a heastink you want to always make sure the blow all of the water off of it with an air compressor, then you won't have any deposits left behind from the impurities (or at least very little).

I'd let it soak in water for say a half hour, then blow it dry with an air compressor (if you have one). That method usually gets rid of most of that stuff for me.

Maybe add some baking soda to the soak.
 
Maybe add some baking soda to the soak.

And if the baking soda soak doesn't work, try vinegar. Just make sure you rinse with distilled water.

When my astrnomy club needed to clean our 16" Newtonian's mirror, we were faced with cleaning a shiny aluminized reflective surface. We used the kind of dishwashing detergent you put in a sink, the stuff that comes in tapered bottles, thinnned with distilled water. We then rinsed it with distilled water. We then used rubbing alcohol to dewater the surface, then a hairdryer. We ended with a clean surface -- clean enough that we did some observing of the lunar terminator at 1250x.

So I'm a big fan of distilled water.
 
Gave it another go with Hot water and Baking Soda, no major visible enhancements. I think I'm done with this heatsink, I recently upgraded to haswell and I still need to purchase the Bolt-Thru-Kit so I can mount it on my motherboard (which is $15). So I think it's not worth all this trouble, the whole thing will at least cost me $40 (mounting kit and cleaners, and it might not clean up). I'll just buy a new heatsink.

Pics after baking soda bath:
20131124_143530.jpg
20131124_143523.jpg
20131124_143538.jpg
 
you know, it still works.. it's just... ugly
Like a car still functions like a car, even when it is caked in mud & grime :)

This is the kind of residu you can get on a car (or any other surface) when you don't get it dry after washing with hard water
If you dont have the same results on (drinking) glasses... dip the HS in vinegar for a minute or so to dislodge the calcium, then just put it into the dishwasher.
At eco- low temp cycle, not at the full "remove_14-day_old_burned-in_caked_on_cooking_residue_run_this_at_85°C" programm , you dont want to blow the heatpipes.
It may or may not come out less or more "ugly".
 
I dont see that this should make it unusable. It will still work, but a lot more for dust to grab on to.

Maybe if you leave it on a bucket of brake fluid for a night haha...
 
A product like C.L.R. might be the ticket. They are formulated to remove calcium, lime, and rust from faucets etc. You might try that route.
It should not effect the finish on the HS either.
 
A product like C.L.R. might be the ticket. They are formulated to remove calcium, lime, and rust from faucets etc. You might try that route.
It should not effect the finish on the HS either.

I was thinking the same thing. You can get it at most hardware stores.
 
So I got the Bolt thru kit and I installed the heatsink inside my case (after my best attempts of cleaning it up, looks much better than the original pics now btw). Thermal paste that I used is MX-4 (line method as recommended by AS).

IBT @ Stock intel hsf: (value/min/max)
temps1.png

IBT @ IFX-14:
temps2.png

The heatsink have no fans attached to it (I'll probably add one or two later on if I begin overclocking) and the 4770K is at stock speed. No overclocking whatsoever.
 
If you use CLR on that Heatsink you will probably lose fins. If not have outright failure of the majority of them.

What you are seeing are hardwater deposits. Distilled Water +White Vinegar = no hardwater deposits. See above what was mentioned regarding cleaning a mirror.

How would CLR Remove or damage the fins? They should be soldered to the heatpipes. CLR will not damage aluminum/brass/copper/chrome/plastic or rubber.
Please explain this to me. I would really like to know.
CLR is formulated to remove "hard water deposits, lime, scale, and rust"......without damaging the fixture you are cleaning.
 
http://www.thecarycompany.com/containers/facility/clrfaq.html

What will CLR do to copper or aluminum?
CLR will take the finish off of aluminum and copper.

What surfaces should I not use CLR on?
DO not use CLR on natural stone or marble, terrazzo, colored grout, painted or metallic glazed surfaces, plastic laminates, Formica, aluminum, steam irons, leaded crystal, refinished tubs or any damaged or cracked surface. CLR may etch older sinks, tubs and tiles. CLR is corrosive.
Avoid contact with wood, clothing, wallpaper and carpeting. Some laminated surfaces (counter tops) are coated with a synthetic surface which may be affected by rust removers; clean spills immediately.
Can I use CLR on my car to remove rust?
No, it is not recommended to use CLR on a car. It may drip onto aluminum or a painted surface.

Also a fixture has a MUCH thicker and larger area vs the thin fins of a heatsink. CLR corroding anything on a faucet will not be noticeable without MULTIPLE applications, Corroding away ANY amount of 30+gauge Aluminum will QUICKLY result in noticeable and obvious failure.
 
Last edited:
http://www.thecarycompany.com/containers/facility/clrfaq.html

What will CLR do to copper or aluminum?
CLR will take the finish off of aluminum and copper.

What surfaces should I not use CLR on?
DO not use CLR on natural stone or marble, terrazzo, colored grout, painted or metallic glazed surfaces, plastic laminates, Formica, aluminum, steam irons, leaded crystal, refinished tubs or any damaged or cracked surface. CLR may etch older sinks, tubs and tiles. CLR is corrosive.
Avoid contact with wood, clothing, wallpaper and carpeting. Some laminated surfaces (counter tops) are coated with a synthetic surface which may be affected by rust removers; clean spills immediately.
Can I use CLR on my car to remove rust?
No, it is not recommended to use CLR on a car. It may drip onto aluminum or a painted surface.

Also a fixture has a MUCH thicker and larger area vs the thin fins of a heatsink. CLR corroding anything on a faucet will not be noticeable without MULTIPLE applications, Corroding away ANY amount of 30+gauge Aluminum will QUICKLY result in noticeable and obvious failure.

So noted. It says it will remove the finish of alum, copper etc. So.. it could be used, but NOT rcomended. Thank you for the info and links. Greatly appreciated.
 
Back