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Help me choose and give me your vote for these Thermal Paste

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Personally i flip flop between Dell OEM paste (best i have ever put on a chip) and ICD24.

I have an over abundance of alot of paste ha
 
Put it on BEFORE BED and LET IT CURE WHILE YOU SLEEP meant overnight to me. Wasnt talking, and didnt quote you though. :shrug:

Anyhoo, glad the OP picked his paste out. ;)

I still dont get it :shrug:.

You want everyone to cure their bottoms? How? and how 'put it on BEFORE BED'?
 
After applying the paste do you have to wait a while before booting up your PC?I applied some and booted up straight away and the monitor wouldn't come on[went into power saving mode]but after removing the paste it worked as normal,cheers
 
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After applying the paste do you have to wait a while before booting up your PC?I applied some and booted up straight away and the monitor wouldn't come on[went into power saving mode]but after removing the paste it worked as normal,cheers

That sounds like an issue for its own thread. With that said, I'm guessing you may have forgotten to plug something in and you fixed it the second time after removing it, or you used way too much paste and it got everywhere and you cleaned it off.

Actually with thermal paste I pretty much apply it (about the size of a small pea/large grain of rice) right in the middle of the CPU IHS. Press/twist the heatsink onto the IHS of the CPU to get a good spread then clamp down, plug everything in that isn't plugged in yet, then turn on. Hasn't failed me yet.
 
*** takes like 200 hours or some sbyte to cure. Not overnight.

Mx2,3 or pk1 and don't make it harder than it needs to be.

I've been using PK1 on the last several builds and I like it. I was a diehard AS5 user but I couldn't tell how well I applied it because of cure time. Most times it was fine but with PK1, I know right away if there's a problem.
 
Cure time on AS5 is a difference of 1-2C really. A questionable mount will wipe that difference out.


I still dont get it :shrug:.

You want everyone to cure their bottoms? How? and how 'put it on BEFORE BED'?
Remember the context. We are talking about thermal paste on a heatsink, not Preperation H. :p

EDIT: Maybe the autocorrect got you? ***= AS5. ;)
 
Cure time on AS5 is a difference of 1-2C really. A questionable mount will wipe that difference out.


Remember the context. We are talking about thermal paste on a heatsink, not Preperation H. :p

EDIT: Maybe the autocorrect got you? ***= AS5. ;)

Oh :D
 
I've been playing around with noctua NT-H1 lately, since its has no break in time. Between that and the Arctic silver Ceramique'. Though I have a few tubes of Arctic Silver Ceramique' 2 that I have yet to test. Mostly the Ceramique' is for Cold benching, do to temp range and low cost.

I have found that for Ceramique' if you want to break it in fast and really make sure that you have a good interface between it and the pot/heatsink. You should apply it hot, take a hair dryer and warm both the tube and the surface you are putting it on. Then put the two together, after they are together heat the heatsink/pot again. (Use a temp probe to monitor the temp of the bottom of the heatsink or go off core temp if you have a board capable of showing this to you while its not on). Get the heat up to around 50-60c then let it cool from ambient temps (don't use a fan on it). Repeat this a couple times and it should be pretty close to the break in point if not already there.
 
I've been playing around with noctua NT-H1 lately, since its has no break in time. Between that and the Arctic silver Ceramique'. Though I have a few tubes of Arctic Silver Ceramique' 2 that I have yet to test. Mostly the Ceramique' is for Cold benching, do to temp range and low cost.

I have found that for Ceramique' if you want to break it in fast and really make sure that you have a good interface between it and the pot/heatsink. You should apply it hot, take a hair dryer and warm both the tube and the surface you are putting it on. Then put the two together, after they are together heat the heatsink/pot again. (Use a temp probe to monitor the temp of the bottom of the heatsink or go off core temp if you have a board capable of showing this to you while its not on). Get the heat up to around 50-60c then let it cool from ambient temps (don't use a fan on it). Repeat this a couple times and it should be pretty close to the break in point if not already there.


thanks for the suggestion, but i'm just way too lazy for this break in process. i need to do the same in order to properly apply the MX3 and MX4. So far this Gelid Extreme is really easy to apply just like the good old MX2.
 
Im also using the arctic silver ceramique,i just applied it then left it over night and its working great.Ive overclocked my PC and its still shaded 10c off from what it use to be even before i started overclocking :D Might buy the arctic cooling freezer 7 CPU as well,only £15
 
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