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high wattage fan controller

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I told you DOOD! You'll prob have to go to Graingers or some
place like that.There some ppl here that know more about that then I do.Do a search on the subject.Try a Google.If you can't find anything check back.Its out there somewhere. The answers..
THE FANMAN:cool:
Check this place out..But you need to ask someone what you need exactly.That 50 watt one will prob be ok ,,BUT I DONT know for sure if its the correct one.But i can find out....
THE FANMAN:cool: EDIT:LINK :D
HOW TO LINK
 
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I believe you can use a transistor to hook them up. Connect the source to a 4 pin hard drive power connector. Connect the drain to the fans positive connector. Connect the other terminal (don't remember what its called) to the positive connector of the fan controller. Connect the negative connector of the fan to the 4 pin hard drive connector. There you have it, the wattage comes straight from the power supply and it is controled by the transitor.

Another option would be an opamp.
 
I don't think 2 Ohms is enough. Most people have been suggesting 15 Ohms. I have not tried them, so I don't know from personal experience.
 
Re: HIGH watt controller .....

How about this?

Had you thought of using a 120v dimmer switch?
You know, the type used to adjust a celing fan. ;)

I have heard that people have had good luck using them
on large PC case fans. You might give one of those a try.
At least they're cheap. About $3 at the local hardware outlet.


If you need a good rheostat page take a look at
the following Rheostat Tutorial

Good luck with your project! :)
 
Is this a 92mm tornado?

If so the sunbeam wil work, it'll handle anything up to 20 watts per channel.
 
The comair rotron 172mm fans are closer to 25 watts on 12v...yes they are quite the beast fan huh? Your best bet is to get the 24v fans and power them with 12v or get the 12v and maybe do a 7v mod to them. You can hook up a 5v/7v/12v or just a 7v/12v switch and should workout ok. Rheostats for fans like this usually are quite large...and get very warm too and cost around $40 atleast. :(
 
ive got a similar issue. im using two comair viking DC centrifugal blowers that i got ducted to my cpu, and their combined amp draw is 2.6, which makes for 32 watts. right now im using a three position switch that came with a volcano 7 i bought a way back, and mounted a iceberq 4 with a broken fan on the back of it to keep it cool (that thing gets VERY hot). ill gve that 120v dimmer a shot, that sounds like a good idea.

i also ordered a boat bilge blower for S&Gs that draws 3 amps, so ill need an even more robust controler for that.

right now im at 40C running prime95 on my oc'd xp2600 with the vikings on medium, where they dont make much noise at all, blowing onto a volcano 12 hs.
 
The dimmer switch idea probably won't work.

Dimmer switches either use PWM on rectified AC or a Triac. Cheap dimmer switches are most likely triac-operated ones designed for 120VAC. THEY DO NOT WORK WITH DC. They are designed so that they only conduct on part of the AC wave, reducing the power to the ceiling fan/lights.

You can take a lookie Here for fan control methods - your best bet would be a linear variable voltage regulator with a whopping heatsink on it.

Or you could look on the front page a couple of weeks from now on how to build your own 36W per channel PWM fan controller - Article in the pipeline :cool:
 
Thanks, i have a fan controller for my other fans, but its not strong enough to power the 172mm one (20w per channel). Ill keep an eye out for the article.
 
Gbaz,I talked to AFI the other day on AIM.He said he is using the dimmer on the monster fan in his computer.The Comair. He said no heat,no buzzing and no fan stall.So you might want to PM him and see which dimmer switch he used. THE FANMAN:cool:
 
i was going to get the dimer, but the iceberq 4 i slaped on the volcano 7 fan speed switch and its working for me and running cool to the touch. before without the HS it would burn skin if it had been on a while
 
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