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Highest FSB on a NF7?

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ah VDDR is a bit lower than +3.3v

so for example

VDDR1=redaded by winbond HWD
VIO1=redaded by winbond HWD
VDDR2=redaded by Tester
VIO2=redaded by Tester


in my test

VDDR1=3.28v fluctuating from 3.28 to 3.24v
VIO1=3.3v

VDDR2=3.3v never fluctuating, rock stable
VIO2=3.38v

so the winbond doesn't read well but you can use the read of the VIO line of the winbond HWD to read the real VDDR ;)
 
Re: Dr. Strangelove;

huneycutt said:
This 2500 mulitplier unlocked so might play with it when I feel like it but at 21.5GHz it runs cool and fast enough for me so I let well enough alone. [/B]

21.5Ghz ... I think that's the best OC I've ever seen. :p :D

I'd love a little more information on that VDDR mod, exactly what it does and why there is a need for it (for those of us with lesser understandings of eletrical curents, voltages, and how certain things can help stabilize a system and give more performance).

Maybe someone else should try it and write up a tutorial or something, too.
 
PerlAddict, What he did is just connecting the 3.3v psu rail into the dimm, that gives him a stable 3.3v vdimm bypassing all of the mobos regulators and the junky stuff that makes your vdimm not stable.

Did you understand man?
Suma.
 
Finally got my $44 refurbed Soltek "Golden Flame"
(SL-75FRN2-RL) fired up last night.

So far those who said the revision "VER: D" are better OCers
than the "VER: E3" seem to be right.

Currently running Prime95 at 245fsb. (no mods)
Still going higher! :D

edit: ........................

Now running 100% stable (P95 and 3dMark2k3) at 248fsb.
'Bout time my luck changed!
 
Last edited:
Suma said:
PerlAddict, What he did is just connecting the 3.3v psu rail into the dimm, that gives him a stable 3.3v vdimm bypassing all of the mobos regulators and the junky stuff that makes your vdimm not stable.

Did you understand man?
Suma.

Yeah. Thanks. Two questions, though:

1) Can you lower the vdimm at all if you do this, or since you're bypassing all the regulators, are you just going to have to run a constant 3.3v (which with BH-5 I would imagine would be a good thing)?

2) How exactly would you go about hooking up the 3.3v rail directly like that? Where do you split it off? (excuse the noobish, but I know next to nothing about where the power connections and circuits on the NF7 hook up and how they flow and where you can and should patch into things).
 
PerlAddict said:


Yeah. Thanks. Two questions, though:

1) Can you lower the vdimm at all if you do this, or since you're bypassing all the regulators, are you just going to have to run a constant 3.3v (which with BH-5 I would imagine would be a good thing)?

2) How exactly would you go about hooking up the 3.3v rail directly like that? Where do you split it off? (excuse the noobish, but I know next to nothing about where the power connections and circuits on the NF7 hook up and how they flow and where you can and should patch into things).

That's no biggy man

1) You can use a VR, but I doubt you will want to give less then 3.2v so the difference is nothing so what's the point? :p

2) I'd do it inside the PSU, solder another cable where one of the 3.3v rail is soldered. It's not hard to find these orange cables that are connected to your mobo ATX connector.

Suma.
 
Cool. My next option would be to pick out a PSU and then have someone point out exactly which part was the 3.3v rail. :D

If you short out something on the PSU, though, are you running a much higher risk of blowing up the rest of the comp? And does splitting the 3.3v rail have any effect on its flow/effeciency/whatever else it could possibly affect?

Maybe I need to take this discussion over to the power supply section. :)
 
You may do that, but we can continue the discussion here too, it's still about modding an Abit (NF7) Motherboard so it's still belong in here also. Picking a PSU, you have two options IMO.
First is the Fortons/Sparkles and second is the Antecs, I use a Sparkle 350w PSU and it's great, you can also mod the rails for it without doing much.

Do you think you'll do the 3.3v to the dimm mod? why won't you try the Vdimm mod first? I think you're better off trying it before doing that mod. Also, if I'll find a way of doing the VTT/VBT mod it'll be the same thing as soldering the 3.3v rail into the dimm.

Suma.
 
I am getting both the Vdd and Vmem mods and the 3.3 on the power supply, before I got 230 with pos kingston hyperx pc3500
so I am hoping for 240+ after.

-Milkman
 
Milkman said:
I am getting both the Vdd and Vmem mods and the 3.3 on the power supply, before I got 230 with pos kingston hyperx pc3500
so I am hoping for 240+ after.

-Milkman

i'm not sure vdd mod will help

i mod my vdd up to 2.2V no improvement

perhaps i can run up to 242MHz 2-2-2-11 timing vdimm 3.3V i/O 3.6V

with Vdd @ 1.5V

:beer:
 
Lynky still no worky. ;)

Seems Xtreme Systems is doing some restructuring. The lynk
to my "user control panel" doesn't work anymore either. :(
 
D22 Alpha 1 tested by Dani

System Spec & Setup:
Motherboard: Abit NF7-S v2.0
Bios : d22Alpha1
Processor : Barton 2500+ ( 254 x 12) = 3056MHz
Memory : 2x256Mb Kingston Hyper-X PC3000
Timing: 2-2-2-5,
CPU Interface : ON
Cooling:High Pressure CO2 gas -> dry ice (-79c) Cooling

System :

dani2.jpg


dani1.jpg


PiFast33
dani-pi.gif
 
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