- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
Ok Weapon. I'll be checking the classifieds for your Shroud soon 
-
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How to modify an 86 Chevette heatercore
- Thread starter bbuster
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2001
- Location
- Random Dumpster/Alley
As far as I can remember from a previous short search, the typical brass alloy is generally as strong and as hard as treated 6061 T6 aluminum (against bend & such, not rockwell rating), more so than copper, and can be drilled and threaded better than copper because its not as soft (the chips aren't "sticky" or continuous while tapping), although it's hardness over copper increases the force needed, but...the density reduces it. 
Essentially, no noticable difference between an all copper or brass rad temp-wise, and since you can't easly select which your local store carries (nor do they give a flying fudge which material they carry), it's not worth mulling over. Besides, brass is better for soldering near another solder joint, since it won't carry heat as well, and will basicly create a better joint (in the sense that tank will resist flexing a semi-brittle solder joint).
Anyways, all you really have to do is apply the heat evenly and somewhat slowly (which prevents over-heating), use good flux, scuff up both bonding points, and keep the two pieces rigid while the solder is cooling and solidifying. It also helps to heat the area directly around the fluxed area more than the joint - it prevents flux evap/burn & putting an oxidization coat(whatever the stuff is that changes copper/brass rainbow colors) where you really want clean metal surfaces. My suggestion is to use rigid 5/8" copper pipe (if using 1/2" ID tubing) since it's cheap, has a very large ID vs. barb fittings, and much cheaper. Not as easy to fit into tubing, less bulky, and just as leak-proof (still use clamps, less pressure required though). Sure you might want to remove the barbs, but who really does? Maybe to use them for another rad, but by then chances are the rad won't get used then. I usually prefer expensive removability, but in this case, cheap semi-permenance works better. Try doing THIS with removable brass barbs...space/dimentional restrictions apply heavily. FYI that started with two pipes, both removed & bored out and two added.
Essentially, no noticable difference between an all copper or brass rad temp-wise, and since you can't easly select which your local store carries (nor do they give a flying fudge which material they carry), it's not worth mulling over. Besides, brass is better for soldering near another solder joint, since it won't carry heat as well, and will basicly create a better joint (in the sense that tank will resist flexing a semi-brittle solder joint).Anyways, all you really have to do is apply the heat evenly and somewhat slowly (which prevents over-heating), use good flux, scuff up both bonding points, and keep the two pieces rigid while the solder is cooling and solidifying. It also helps to heat the area directly around the fluxed area more than the joint - it prevents flux evap/burn & putting an oxidization coat(whatever the stuff is that changes copper/brass rainbow colors) where you really want clean metal surfaces. My suggestion is to use rigid 5/8" copper pipe (if using 1/2" ID tubing) since it's cheap, has a very large ID vs. barb fittings, and much cheaper. Not as easy to fit into tubing, less bulky, and just as leak-proof (still use clamps, less pressure required though). Sure you might want to remove the barbs, but who really does? Maybe to use them for another rad, but by then chances are the rad won't get used then. I usually prefer expensive removability, but in this case, cheap semi-permenance works better. Try doing THIS with removable brass barbs...space/dimentional restrictions apply heavily. FYI that started with two pipes, both removed & bored out and two added.
