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Is it really better than copper?

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The coolant inside resonates at a certain frequency to even out dissipation. It's really cool - and works really well
 
was reading the FAQ..

Is it all right to drill a hole on the product?

Never attempt to apply additional processing, because there is danger of unexpected burn or frostbite caused by the working fluid splashing out. Also there is danger that the container is weakened and ruptures due to the scratch or else. Make sure to read the operation manual before using and take care when handling the product.

hm.. sounds like fun!!
 
about the fluid establishing a direction of movement... i'm pretty sure it will do that without any kind of little valves or anything. and i'm also pretty sure it will eventually establish the most efficient movement pattern for the given application, always moving from hottest to coolest area. i could be wrong, but it doesnt seem that the thing needs these little valves some of you mentioned.
 
OMG... I want some of this stuff.... Hell imagine the coolness you can get from your puter.... You can use this is a Pelt Cooler... With the max plate size of 500mmx500mm you can use it as a good heater with a couple of 120mm fans on it while it's keeping your 220w TEC nice and cool...

Anyways... I'm totally interested in this as a new HS....

I know what you mean by active and passive states.... cause if it doesn't release the heat very fast but it can distribute it very fast then it wouldn't be very usefull but I dont' believe that is the case here... I image with one of these on a TEC and a hugh stove pipe style of blowing air across it you can have a totally quiet PC while your still running your CPU at around 6 degrees C...
 
Susquehannock said:
Contrary to popular belief Aluminum will "bleed off" or dissipate
heat faster than Copper or Silver.
However, when the source is still active is another matter. ;)

Is that right? It would seem that aluminum would take longer to cool off because it has a higher heat capacity.
 
Q. Does Heatronics have specific distributors?

A. This moment, we don't have any distributors who stock and sell our products. Contact us directly even if you want standard products.

Sounds like if you want something, you can get it directly from them.
 
It appears to me that a wafer of this material would be best suited for transferring heat to larger areas; i.e. air cooling would benefit most.

It may also increase the efficiency of some of the less efficient waterblocks.

I'm doubful it would help out the better designed waterblocks that concentrate cooling to just above the CPU die.

Still, if a wafer of this stuff (say the same size as the bottom of your heatsink - air or water) if priced appropriately, would be an economical way of droping a degree or two (or maybe more).
 
Also, unlike heat pipe heat sinks, there is no limitation to the position to install Heatlane™ heat sink.* with some restrictions

This is a quote from the website....Whats that supposed to mean....It will work in position, without limitations, except somethimes...
ALSO, this sounds a little too good to be true...If there was a material that was that conductive...don't you think many people would allready be using it? If Im wrong, Ill kick myself in the head...
If this is true...an air cooled case COULD preform the same as a water cooled case...this is beacause w/ air OR water...the best you can cool to is ambient temprature! .
....To wrap one more of my babbeling paragraphs up....I want this stuff ONLY after someone else gets it.
 
you know all it really boils down to is the surface area you diiapate your heat to, the air, case, and whatever else around your dissipation device ie: heatsink, ratiator, etc. if you cant dissipate it, it will build, simply put. all a heat pipe is doing is transfering heat to make use of a normally null piece of heatsink. basicly making the area of heatsink further away from the heat source absorb some of the heat where it is more apt to release the heat energy. I dont care what you do, it all boils down to basic rules, energy cannot be created or destroyed, it can only change form, in this case its only passed between mediums of heatsink to air, using whatever process weather its water, fan, etc.
 
if only the heatlane technology was used with copper instead of steel and molded in the form of the rbx... :drool:
 
The real trick is to use the passing air to cool the heat exchanger mower than ambient temp so the item being cooled is able to give off more heat energy thus staying cooler. Anybidy with water cooling wanna give my idea a try?

Only if you have an external radiator, I dont want to ruin anything for you.

Please dont do this if you dont know the concequences for a shorted fan, They should be sealed, but there is a possibility.

Take a windex spray bottle and spray a gentle mist into the radiator and see is your temps come down, they should as the water evaporates, it absorbs heat on the fins and supercools your water system. I would guess there should be a 5-10% drop in CPU temp. All depends on how much water you use. The real setup would be to have a fan duct with a venturi and small holes drilled in a tube to atomize the water going into the fins . I would think this would be best.
Please dont think I'm lookin for guinnea pig here, I will be doing something like this myself when I get my rig upgraded.
 
i2fast4u: what you're proposing is a short waiting to happen. As well as a corrosion nightmare.

If you still want to try after all, do yourself a favor and use distilled water, not tap water - or else your heatsink will be clogged within hours by the limestone buildup.
 
Pulled this from the same disscusion over at acau here.

Originally posted by The8ball @ ocau forums
There was another company who make heatsink bases using the same technology, thermacore I think.

Any way, I emailed them about the possible application of this technology for the development of very high performance waterblocks.

I got hold of some documents outlining calculations of the thermal resistance imposed on heat flow by a plate of this sort.

Essentially, the thermal resistance could be broken down into a number of "components".


1. A thermal resistance associated with thermal energy conducting from the surface of the heat source through the casing material of the heat plate to the wick structure where the phase change takes place.

2. A thermal resistance associated with the phase change of the liquid into a vapour in the wick structure adjacent to the heat source.

3. Another thermal resistance relating to the "effective" conductivity of the space inside the heat plate which is modelled on the diffusion speeds of the vapur as well as the geomoetry of the heat plate in relation to the size and position of the heatsource.

4. One associated with the phase change from vapour back to liquid at the wick structure adjacent to the cooled surface.

5. And finally, another resistance associated with the conducting of thermal energy from the wick structure to the cooled surface.


This can then be compared with say a solid plate of copper/silver of the same dimensions which would form the base plate of your water block.

What I discovered plugging some numbers into the relevant formulae, was that 1,3,4 & 5 could be very small indeed, as the thickness of the casing is very thin, and the "effective" conductivity of the space inside is around 10,000W/m*k, and the phase change and conduction at the cooled surface are also very low because of the very nature of spreading it out over a much greater area.

The problem however, lies with number two.

Using rough estimates of the size of the core being 12mmX12mm and dissipating 75 Watts, the thermal resistance of this stage alone worked out to be greater than the entire thermal resistance of the white water as tested, and this is even before you figure in the 4 other resistances, though these were much less significant.

The reasons for this?

With efficient water block design, it is less important to have a base material allowing for greater spreading. If however, as with air cooling, there is quite some difficulty in being able to dissipate all of the heat from directly above the heat source, the advantage of the last 3 resistances being so low come into their own.

And this is what they are being used for. Relatively low cost, but moderately high performance mass produced heatsingks, for any form of heat generating IC, including the P4. The allow for better than cheap/stock aircooling, but will never compete with top end air cooling on a direct performance comparison. They are an improvement to the really poor performance end of the aircooled HS prosuct.

8-ball
 
UberBlue said:
Pulled this from the same disscusion over at acau here.



I don’t think I agree with this guy’s conclusion. If you made a high end Heat-sink out of this material it should perform better.

I'd like to see it done...by say..thermalright.
 
On my snowmobile, I have a 200mm fan very similar to computer fans and I have yet to have any problem with it shorting from water and plugging my radiator, I dont know how bad your water is where you are, but its not too bad here. Its only a suggestion at the moment, I will be putting this theory into motion as soon as I get some funds arranged for my new rig
 
i2fast4u said:
On my snowmobile, I have a 200mm fan very similar to computer fans and I have yet to have any problem with it shorting from water and plugging my radiator, I dont know how bad your water is where you are, but its not too bad here. Its only a suggestion at the moment, I will be putting this theory into motion as soon as I get some funds arranged for my new rig

It may look similiar, but I would bet its a little different.
 
I don’t think I agree with this guy’s conclusion. If you made a high end Heat-sink out of this material it should perform better.

I'd like to see it done...by say..thermalright.

It's not a material. It's a heatpipe meaning it has a very definate minimum thickness, which would be much thicker than the thin fins on thermalright heatsinks.. making it a pointless exercise to attempt.

But this is not new technology really. Thermalright do already use heatpipes, and they do reduce temps by 1-2c.


This 8-ball guy from ocau forums has done some interesting research and come to the conclusion that it wouldn't help as a base for a water block.. well duh! The base should already ideally be thinner than this stuff can go!!! Simple physics means this would never be even close to a good idea.
 
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