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is the blackice pro crap?

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I noticed that you are using a 1048 Eheim. The delivery head is 4 ft 11in (1.5M)

You might get lucky on Ebay and find a good Iwaki to upgrade to (>3M). I think the head may be an issue with your current setup and for sure will be an issue if you add the BlackIce Pro back into your loop.
 
you should hook it up in parallel. your w/c system should cool better with the heat exchangers hooked up in parallel than if they were in series. i say something like this would be good: pump---> Y fitting--->rad1 and rad2----> Y fitting----> waterblock----> pump. i'm sure your temps will drop a lot when you hook up the two together. i think your pump will handle the 2 rads, but i am not certain.

i faced the same problem as you before... i had one black ice extreme and it wasn't enough. i should have bought a big heatercore, but i ended up just buying another black ice extreme. my cpu temps dropped drastically when i installed the second rad and at stock 1700+ speed, temps were in the low 20's to mid 20's degrees C.
 
How did your pump manage to push enough flow through a parallel setup with your Hydor? What specs?
 
well... here are my temps at stock speeds 2.8ghz... 30 idle, 38 load
gonna reseat the cpu block soon...
 
2.0L Turbo S13 said:
6.25 ft head, 320 gph

i guess that would be like running 2 eheim 1048's.

Maybe.

I'm not thoroughly proficient in Thermodynamics but I'm not sure if the relationship between head and gph is quite so linear.

If anyone can help to clarify please do!

Wangster
 
I've got the black ice pro, its good but not the best, ive only had it bout 3 months and am looking into buying a dtek heatercore. Right now my setup is:

BI Pro with single 120mm fan at 4V. Ambient is 22 water temp is about 33. At 12v the temps are reasonable, very good for normal users but for overclockers they are ok.
 
I have The Black Ice Extreme - Maze 3 - Ehiem 1048 and my YStech 120 is @ 7v, before i ducted chilled air i was getting around 32c idle and 36c load, now with the duct i get 26c idle and 28c load, this is of course with a Vcore of 2.01v. I have often said that the Black Ice range of products are not the best, BUT they are well made, look good and if space is a problem, then you cant beat their performance........well I'm not complaining!:D

Oh, if reduce my overclock to 2Ghz @ 1.85v my temps drop down to 22c idle 24c load, Which is why i cant wait to get my new XP2100+ 'B', just hope it's a good week!!:).

The biggest improvement i found to my temps(apart from ductingthrough the Rad, was to make sure the airflow was not ristricted in any way, clear the air path and add some exhaust fans to help pull air through the radiator.

MDA.
 
Wangster said:


Maybe.

I'm not thoroughly proficient in Thermodynamics but I'm not sure if the relationship between head and gph is quite so linear.

Wangster

good point.

well as far as gph, at least, it has twice the capacity of a 1048.......
 
thx MDA for ur post...i have added a 120mm(exhaust) where my BI pro was....and covered up the hole i made on the side for fresh air for when the BI pro was there...check my pic. do u think if i take out the 2 fans in the front and make a 120mm hole for a pull/push on the rad will help? i dont believe so and would be too much work for little gain......
 
If what you have done has not helped thus far, then you have another problem. I've heard that the Maze series can be difficult to seat properly even for someone with a lot of experience. Is there a way to tell the temp of the water? If the water is cool, then you definately have a seating issue. Perhaps just re-applying the TIM might help.

Once you get to the point where you are seeing gains from your setup, then I would go to a push/pull. People see a 1-3c drop in temps from this depending on setup. The main thing will be to be able to run quieter fans and reduce noise.
 
Here's a photo of how mine is set up,

Picture%20093%20copy.jpg

As you can see it is very similar to your original setup with the Black Ice position at the top of the case. I had to choose here as my hdd cage comes all the way down.

I have seven fans running in my case all running at 7v so not too loud. (although the Delta on the northbridge is actually @ 5v!!), They all help to circulate the cold air coming in through the top positioned Black Ice. The two 80mm at the back act as exhausts, the two 80mm at the front also act as exhausts and i Have two other 80mm on the side which pull ambient air in. I have tried numerous different arrangements of fan directions and this arrangement works best for keeping my system temps down as well as my cpu temps, System temp stays at around 25c.

A picture of my ducting system which brings cold air in through my Black Ice Extreme!!

Picture%20094%20copy.jpg

I personally would fit a 120mm intake at the front of your case it would probably perform better than the 2 80mm fans, but also be quieter whilst pulling more cfm.

MDA.
 
the water is very hot in the res. my p4 is at 1.71 vcore actual.

MDA: i might have to chagne everything around if i am gonna make a pull push rad....might ahve to buy the dtek bay res to save space.
 
look at my system in my sig, i have the maze 3, and you have a better pump, but since i have a heatercore, my temps are lots better, you should get one
 
matt i have a HC with shroud. my temps now are 32C idle and 46C load
 
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6.25 ft head, 320 gph

i guess that would be like running 2 eheim 1048's.
not linear so neither gallons per hour or head can be added this way, so it isnt necessarily similar at all to two eheims. and wangster that would be a fluid dynamics issue, not a thermodynamics one. :D:beer:

If I remember correctly, I think it means that your TIM joint is poor.
i would give this some definite consideration, i get the same temperature difference idle to load with my stock retail hsf on my 1800+ pally.

I can't tell what the inlet of you pump looks like. does the way it attach cause any restriction? if so, this is the single worst thing you could do for a pump and it will kill its performance.

is the temperature of your heatercore similar to the temperature of your waterblock? these need to be as close as possible for the loop to be efficient.

do you know for a fact the insocket thermistor on your motherboard has no issues with reading relatively high temps? if not you may want to inquire about this in the motherboards forum. actually you are getting a huge temp difference between high and low, so that isnt the problem, scratch that. :)

if you go with an inline set up on two rads the order in which you put them is completely irrelevant, the pump will have to push through the entire resistance of both and it is doesnt matter which one comes first or second. i wouldnt do this however because all the signs are pointing somewhere else... you switched heat exchangers and the temps are not much better.

I would recheck the tim joint like you plan to. :) good luck.
 
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